battery disconnect

[scchasgal]

We have a 2015 alpine 3536re and we put it in storage, did our two battery disconnects by turning to the off mode and removing the orange key. My question is why were we still able to move the slideouts with no battery, no shore power or connection to the truck. Maybe defective off switch on the battery? Anyone else experience this, thanks

[JRTJH]

The battery cutoff switches normally wired by the factory are not "TRUE" cutoff switches. They only remove power from a "portion" of the electrical system. The remaining parts of the electrical system are still "powered up" and ready to go. Essentially what is disconnected is the majority of the "parasitic" drains (CO monitor, Propane monitor, radio dial light/clock, etc) and "SOME" of the 12 volt lighting system/refrigerator/water heater power supply/.

With the battery switch turned OFF, you should still be able to use the slides, awning, power jacks, etc. Also, the breakaway device designed to activate the trailer brakes in the event of separation has power all the time.

The only way to completely eliminate ALL power to the trailer is to place another battery cutoff switch on either the positive or negative terminal of the battery. There is some difference of opinion on which terminal to use, but effectively breaking the circuit "at the battery" is the most effective method to completely remove the battery/batteries from the electrical system.

The factory "battery cutoff switch" does not accomplish 100% disconnection for all electrical systems.

[gtsum2]

Interesting. I didn't realize the factory cutoff didn't completely disconnect the battery. So there is likely parasitic draining of the battery i would imagine?

[Scttw]

That is VERY interesting .....

A very educational week for me ....

[Dave W]

If indeed that it is fact the battery disconnect really isn't a true disconnect and system isolator from the 12VDC batteries, and that it only removes a part of that 12VDC system from being energized then it is absolutely useless as a safety device. I've got to dig into this as when I twist that puny Keystone supplied switch, I want those batteries totally isolated. Possibly that's why I 'killed' a perfectly good almost new battery over the winter (I did have one positive with that failure in that the dealer supplied a tiny dual purpose battery Interstate Group 24 instead of a Gr29 heavy duty marine type deep cycle battery that our medium optioned fiver really needs)

[bsmith0404]

If I remember correctly, my slides don't work with the battery disconnect switch off, but the landing gear still does. I'm sure there's a few other systems that do as well. One thing I have done with mine in the past and had good luck is just pulling the negative terminal from the battery. A simple wing nut, unless you've changed them out. That is only for short term storage though. Anything more than a month or two and I make sure I have a battery tender connected, even if that means pulling the batteries. Much better than buying 2 new $100 batteries every year.

[Dave W]

When looking for a new battery, Interstate, Walmart and NAPA, I found that these have gone to a hex nut from the wing nut of the past ( I know a couple folks that are wing nuts) Another problem for some are the battery boxes which have screwed down top covers instead of the latch or strap down types plus are well hidden in a front compartment making it 'interesting' to even check the electrolyte level. Who knows, I might just end up with a second switch for complete battery isolation.

[notanlines]

Dave, this product, or one similar, is available at most decent marine supply stores like West Marine.
http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product...oducts_id=7264

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Dave W

When looking for a new battery, Interstate, Walmart and NAPA, I found that these have gone to a hex nut from the wing nut of the past.

That would call for a trip to Home Depot for new wing nuts.

[gtsum2]

I had battery disconnect off and picked up the th from dealer where it had been for three weeks for some minor adjustments....battery shows 1/3 charged!! So...apparently it does drain down

[GMcKenzie]

Besides the CO/Propane detector, what isn't typically shut off with the battery disconnect? Radio maybe?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by GMcKenzie

Besides the CO/Propane detector, what isn't typically shut off with the battery disconnect? Radio maybe?

I'm sure that somewhere there's a "grand scheme of things" that are controlled by the battery cutoff switch, but from model to model and brand to brand, I wouldn't bet that Keystone wires them all the same. So, if I were you, I'd turn off the battery switch in your RV and walk around doing a point by point assessment of what "won't work" (things cut off) what what "still works" (things the switch doesn't affect). Don't forget that some circuits are controlled by the remote and will function even if they won't operate with the manual switches.

It's another part of that "exploring your RV" to determine how it functions. Always a "mystery" somewhere, just wait until you think you've got it all figured out, and someone on here will ask a question or make a comment and you'll find something you didn't know about what you thought you had "down pat".......

[scchasgal]

Thanks all, I thought I was losing my mind. I will let the dealer know too since on the phone they thought I had a defective switch, ya'll saved me a four hour drive for service

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Dave, this product, or one similar, is available at most decent marine supply stores like West Marine.
http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product...oducts_id=7264

Thanks for the link. I already do have a pro level Longacre race car shut off switch as a surplus item somewhere in my stash of left over car parts from when I built my '31 street rod a few years back. This one : http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...h+-+4+Terminal

I will be turning the power off to see what the existing one actually disconnects but I will be totally disconnecting the battery regardless - I really don't even want the LP detector working if I'm not using the trailer as the propane tanks would be turned off if it was in storage.

[bsmith0404]

Not to mention there wouldn't be anyone there to hear it go off if it did detect some propane.

[GMcKenzie]

My unit didn't come with a switch so I've put one between the frame and batteries on the ground side. That way not even the jack will work if the switch is off.

Also, if you have one I think the best thing would be to sit at your fuse panel with a tester and test each circuit.

[Face Down]

Just checked my Carbon 357 and the battery disconnect turns everything off but the front/rear jacks....those are probably wired directly to the battery. I didn't check the brake circuit, but my guess it is also by-passed.

My '04 Dutchmen TT had no disconnect so I added one and it was wired the same way. For those looking to add one, this is the one that I used and it held up to the elements (was added directly to the frame tongue) for over 10 years.

[Barbell]

Our '14 Montana will drain the battery in 24-48 hours with the disconnect switched to "off". On our first trip, I had to unhook for two days in a lot with no shore power. When we went to hook up again, I had to find another vehicle with jumper cables to raise it. First tried a disconnect on one battery terminal; would still drain the battery. Only way I can keep the battery up for a month or so is with two disconnects. No one at Keystone or any auto electrician has been able to explain why this happens. It would seem that if one terminal is disconnected, the battery should not be drained in a short time but it does. I quit asking why and just disconnect both sides any time I unhook w/o shore power.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by Barbell

Our '14 Montana will drain the battery in 24-48 hours with the disconnect switched to "off".

Makes me wonder ---- so far I haven't left ours without shore power except over the winter which of course 'killed' the battery. The only part that may have been live was the LP detector. Then there is that Lippert 'brain'. Is that always 'on'? To drain a battery in 1-2 days tells me that there is a load, and a bunch heavier then an LP detector or even the brain. You will need to do a parasitic drain test - and here's an easy way to do that test:http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain - with steps 1-8 being mostly relevant to any RV and step 9 for a motor vehicle

A battery, if one pole is disconnected, is for all intent, sits outside of any power circuit unless there is a disconnect switch with always on terminals or there is a second wire to the plus side. I've owned trailers with that second wire.

I'll continue to reference my racing and street rod history and always install on the positive side of a battery disconnect switch as required by NHRA, NA$CAR and suggested by NSRA (I'm not going to get into a discussion over which terminal is better - neither side 'wins'). For sure, two switches are 100% battery disconnection though