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04-12-2014, 07:52 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sykesville, MD
Posts: 28
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Wheelbase
I recently bought a brand new Bullet 298BHS. I am towing it with my 2010 F-150. I am thinking about upgrading my truck to the new 6.4 Hemi 2500. Being that my trailer is 34 feet in length, I occasionally get a little tail wag at highway speeds.
I have always thought that the cure for sway was wheelbase. Most folks would say "You need a 3/4 or 1 ton truck for that." My wheelbase is 145" on the F-150 and the 2500 is 149". With a bigger (the 2014 Ram 2500 is built like a tank with new frame, suspension, etc...) will I still have trailer sway? Should I just go with the longer 169" wheelbase?
For what its worth. I don't want the CTD. I don't need it. Thanks!
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04-12-2014, 08:13 PM
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#2
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Site Team | Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Western PA
Posts: 2,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avidbowhunterww
I recently bought a brand new Bullet 298BHS. I am towing it with my 2010 F-150. I am thinking about upgrading my truck to the new 6.4 Hemi 2500. Being that my trailer is 34 feet in length, I occasionally get a little tail wag at highway speeds.
I have always thought that the cure for sway was wheelbase. Most folks would say "You need a 3/4 or 1 ton truck for that." My wheelbase is 145" on the F-150 and the 2500 is 149". With a bigger (the 2014 Ram 2500 is built like a tank with new frame, suspension, etc...) will I still have trailer sway? Should I just go with the longer 169" wheelbase?
For what its worth. I don't want the CTD. I don't need it. Thanks!
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There is a couple threads out there where this Calc is provided may want to do a search. Do not quote be but though table started out at
20' trailer. 110" wheel base then I thought it was for each extra foot of trailer add 4" to wheel base. Again this is what I remember. Few members in various post questioned this???
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04-12-2014, 08:42 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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What tires are you running on the truck? If P rated (not LT E's), they could be a little soft for the load which can cause sway.
What WD hitch are you running?
Have you been to a scale to make sure your tongue weight isn't too light?
These all can cause sway. What is the gvwr of you trailer? Maybe too much for the truck.
Steve
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04-13-2014, 05:05 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sykesville, MD
Posts: 28
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I am running stock P tires as they still have plenty of rubber left on them. If I was keeping the truck, I would run LT's. I have a Reese dual cam sway hitch. It has been really good to me. We just made our "maiden voyage" trip. 157 miles to Ocean City and had no issues. A few times we were hit by side gusts, but the trailer stayed where it was supposed to.
I have heard of the 20', 120" wheelbase calculator. That seems to be the only gauge out there for reference. I just am looking for perspective. I don't believe it will be an issue, bigger truck, heavy duty suspension, etc... It is just a big purchase that don't want to regret. 169" Ram 2500 will work no problem, I just don't feel like driving a 70 foot rig everywhere. Haha!
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04-13-2014, 07:49 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 170
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Ever see a mobile home moved? Single axle day cab pulling a 70ft trailer. I think a crew cab shortbed can handle a 30ft TT.
Given what is available in the 1/2 market, I wouldn't consider 3/4 with a gas engine unless the trailer weighed over 9k loaded. Get much more truck, more practical for less.
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04-13-2014, 08:56 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoojs12840
Ever see a mobile home moved? Single axle day cab pulling a 70ft trailer. I think a crew cab shortbed can handle a 30ft TT.
Given what is available in the 1/2 market, I wouldn't consider 3/4 with a gas engine unless the trailer weighed over 9k loaded. Get much more truck, more practical for less.
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Apples to Oranges!!!
That Day cab has DRW and the hitch is right at the back edge of the tires, very little leverage action. In contrast the ball on a PU is about 35" to 40" behind the rear axle, lots of sideways leverage on P rated soft side wall tires. Pulling a 34' TT that is light, it will get pushed around by passing trucks, and any side wind.
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2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
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04-14-2014, 03:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland
Posts: 170
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Mobile homes are bumper pulled. All that weight (significantly more than any RV) is at the very rear of the truck. The truck may weight more, but so does the trailer.
If the hitch is setup right with sway control its not difficult to maintain lane. Any truck passing you will naturally pull you closer, the side draft is always present, even with a small trailer. Just watch two trucks pass each other. It's not unsafe or unreasonable. With advance stability control and hitches there is no reason not to consider a 1/2 ton. Like most driving, paying attention and maintaining a reasonable speed will serve you better than even the largest tow vehicle.
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04-14-2014, 06:23 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avidbowhunterww
I recently bought a brand new Bullet 298BHS. I am towing it with my 2010 F-150. I am thinking about upgrading my truck to the new 6.4 Hemi 2500. Being that my trailer is 34 feet in length, I occasionally get a little tail wag at highway speeds.
I have always thought that the cure for sway was wheelbase. Most folks would say "You need a 3/4 or 1 ton truck for that." My wheelbase is 145" on the F-150 and the 2500 is 149". With a bigger (the 2014 Ram 2500 is built like a tank with new frame, suspension, etc...) will I still have trailer sway? Should I just go with the longer 169" wheelbase?
For what its worth. I don't want the CTD. I don't need it. Thanks!
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I hear you 100%. We looked at the 6.4 2500 as an upgrade from our 1500 as well, but were shocked at the price. We're close enough to sway-free with the same Reese DC setup that I'm sure the Propride will do the trick for $3K instead of the extra $30K the 3/4 upgrade would cost.
The 2500 shares its frame with the 3500, so it's not just wheelbase you'd gain, but stronger bones, brakes, and suspension. How a 3/4 carries its weight is completely different than a 1/2ton.
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2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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04-14-2014, 02:05 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sykesville, MD
Posts: 28
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While a new hitch would probably work, my F-150 is the supercab. I need a crew can for the family room. I think the 149" wheelbase will work. I towed back from OC today with 20 - 30 mph wind gusts. I stayed in my lane the whole time and was doing around 50 - 55 mph with a little push here and there. I also want piece of mind though which is why I feel that a 2500 will satisfy all my current necessities.
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