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Old 03-17-2014, 07:02 AM   #21
jaeger63
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mkburg,
What do you mean by mud terrains"making the truck walk" ?
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:26 AM   #22
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The deep lugs on the "Mud tire" will tend to "fold over" or "squish" against the pavement and the tread will not "track true" with the forward motion of the tire when under a heavy load. This causes the tow vehicle to be unpredictable in where it's going to "track" and it doesn't always "follow the steering wheel". The heavier the load, the more problem there is.

I've seen this with "Mud grips" and "deep cleat snow tires". It's especially true on Armstrong Tru-Tracks, Mickey Thompson Mud Grips and similar tires. It's difficult to even tow a heavy boat trailer behind some trucks with the Armstrong's on the tow vehicle.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:24 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by bsmith0404 View Post
Same guy looking for specific input from someone with the RV he wants to buy.



Get a mor-ryde or trail air pin box, that will take most of the bounce out of your trailer. After feeling the difference, I won't own another one without it. I've heard some people claim balance of the trailer will take care of it too, but you could spend days trying to figure out how to load your gear to get the proper balance, if that is in fact the case.
Trying to buy a used Trailair Tri Glide from a guy that's had it for sale for months, at least 6 or more. He's asking $1000, they are easily found online new for $1200 or slight under. Trying to figure out a great price to offer him otherwise I'll buy new if its not a great deal. Any suggestions on price? I'm thinking $500 but not sure what they sell for in the used market. I assume since he's had it for sale for a long time there's not a high demand or he's unreasonable on his price.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The deep lugs on the "Mud tire" will tend to "fold over" or "squish" against the pavement and the tread will not "track true" with the forward motion of the tire when under a heavy load. This causes the tow vehicle to be unpredictable in where it's going to "track" and it doesn't always "follow the steering wheel". The heavier the load, the more problem there is.

I've seen this with "Mud grips" and "deep cleat snow tires". It's especially true on Armstrong Tru-Tracks, Mickey Thompson Mud Grips and similar tires. It's difficult to even tow a heavy boat trailer behind some trucks with the Armstrong's on the tow vehicle.

Yep you nailed it. Exactly what I was talking about, y'all just got to overlook my Redneck terminology here


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Old 03-18-2014, 02:28 AM   #25
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Trying to buy a used Trailair Tri Glide from a guy that's had it for sale for months, at least 6 or more. He's asking $1000, they are easily found online new for $1200 or slight under. Trying to figure out a great price to offer him otherwise I'll buy new if its not a great deal. Any suggestions on price? I'm thinking $500 but not sure what they sell for in the used market. I assume since he's had it for sale for a long time there's not a high demand or he's unreasonable on his price.
I started the hijack based on comments made on how the toy haulers pull, so I guess I'll try to complete it. If the hitch is in good shape 50-60% of new price is more than a fair buy for you. It all comes down to how much are you will to pay for a used one before it just makes more sense to buy new. IMO, if it's in good shape and you could get it for $750, that still saves you around $400+, plus sales tax. As far as the difference the hitch makes, priceless.
Hijack complete.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:17 AM   #26
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I started the hijack based on comments made on how the toy haulers pull, so I guess I'll try to complete it. ...............
Hijack complete.
Now that the hijack is over, perhaps we can now get back to the topic submitted by the original poster. Now, what was that again....
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:10 PM   #27
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"I now keep the fresh water tank near full therefore reducing the pin weight."

C130,
So having your fresh water tank full does in fact reduce your pin weight? Thats very interesting. I guess the tank must be closer to the rear of the camper? How much does the full tank reduce your pin weight? So does the term "dry camp" mean your camping remotely away from any campground hook ups? Do most of the organized campgrounds have water hook ups as well as electrical? I ask because I will almost always camp in remote areas such as National Forest and such and will almost always tow with a full tank of water, fuel, etc. Thanks much
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:17 PM   #28
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Fresh water tank on the Fuzion 322 is in the very rear of the trailer. 112 gallons I think so a little over 900 pounds. I don't know how much it reduces the pin weight but a full tank should lower it some. When we go camping we just haul four bicycles, charcoal grill, cooler, chairs, etc. but nothing very heavy in the garage. We camp a lot at a Texas State Park about an hour and a half away and they have full hookups; electrical, sewer, and water. A lot of the Texas State Parks don't have sewer which is a must for us as we fill up the grey tanks in two days. The toy haulers also have fuel tanks in the rear which can also add several hundred pound if full, one of mine is always empty and the other has very little.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:27 AM   #29
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We just bought a Fuzion 310 . I own a 2013 Chevrolet 2500 HD with Duramax. It pulled very good. No handling issues at all. But after reading some of these post I think that I will install air bags in the near future.
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Old 04-18-2014, 01:09 PM   #30
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Pulled my 310 for the first time this year yesterday with the air bags and new tires. Pulled great the bags leveled the camper really nice and helped with out rough roads here in Louisiana. Checking out a brand new campground in new Iberia this weekend.


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Old 04-19-2014, 08:56 AM   #31
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Right now I am playing in the Sand here in Saudi Arabia..... I can't wait to get home. Already planning a weekend trip in the Fuzion 310. We live in DeRidder and are planning to go to Lake Sam Rayburn in the Great State Of Texas...
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:46 AM   #32
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I'd like to hear from any Raptor 300MP, Fuzion 322 or Fuzion 310 owners who are towing with a 2500HD Duramax. These are the toy haulers I've been seriously researching and hoping to find a good deal on a used one here in the near future. I'm now questioning whether or not I can safely pull one of these models with my 2010 GMC 2500 HD Duramax. It appears the pin weight will exceed the payload rating by a few hundred pounds after I load the camper with water, fuel, and cargo. However I would still be well within the GCVWR. I'm not afraid to go over a little on the payload rating as long as its not unsafe. BTW I do have airbags but I doubt that makes any difference as far as safety goes? Thanks for any input!
Where are yall getting this payload capacity rating? I have an 08 GMC 2500 HD Gas single rear wheels and my payload capacity is 3760 lbs!! Are yall sure your reading this right?
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:56 AM   #33
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Where are yall getting this payload capacity rating? I have an 08 GMC 2500 HD Gas single rear wheels and my payload capacity is 3760 lbs!! Are yall sure your reading this right?
Is that your actual figured payload or the printed payload per GM? If the printed, that is for a stripped down, bare bones base model with no options.

Mine, granted it has the diesel which adds about 600lbs if I remember right, has a payload of 3342 per GM, and in reality of 1603 lbs after all is said and done. That's how much I have left to put kingpin wise on my truck after everything else, and I travel light. You have to do the math and can't rely on what GM, Ford, or Dodge prints. You'll be surprised what you come up. I can easily show you the figures if you'd like.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:14 AM   #34
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Is that your actual figured payload or the printed payload per GM? If the printed, that is for a stripped down, bare bones base model with no options.

Mine, granted it has the diesel which adds about 600lbs if I remember right, has a payload of 3342 per GM, and in reality of 1603 lbs after all is said and done. That's how much I have left to put kingpin wise on my truck after everything else, and I travel light. You have to do the math and can't rely on what GM, Ford, or Dodge prints. You'll be surprised what you come up. I can easily show you the figures if you'd like.
Stripped down? How many options are available for the rear end of a truck that would affect the payload capacity? Don't mean to be a smart ***, but when GM publishes a payload capacity I would assume that's the payload capacity. Mine is a long bed, single cab basic truck with a few options.

I say this because if you look in the book or online, the payload capacity is published for each truck and how its equipped. For instance, My truck will be higher because its a long bed, 2wd single cab. It will be less for 4wd, crewcab, etc.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:14 AM   #35
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It's the same with Ford. I have a 2013 F250 supercab 4x4 long bed 10K GVW. Ford advertises the payload in the specs at 3350. The sticker on the door says 2740. When I weighed it with wife, dog, wheelwell liners, floor mats, fifth wheel hitch, full fuel and a "few" other things (GPS, maps, umbrella, protection device, etc) the actual weight was 7580 leaving an actual payload of 2420. That's 1/3 less than advertised on the Ford website. If I had the 6.7L diesel it would be down below 2000 lbs remaining.

The only "really accurate" way to know what you can carry is to load up, hit the scale and "do the math"........

Although I haven't actually verified this, I'd guess that Dodge advertises and calculates their payload the same way as Ford and GM.

ADDED: Ocho: I guess you were responding the same time I was, so I'm editing this post to include comments on your response. For Ford, (Here's the link to the payload info: http://www.ford.com/trucks/superduty...tions/payload/) the advertised payload is for the BASE truck in each category. That's for the stripped down XL model. There are also different calculations for the supercab and crewcab in each version (2x4/4x4) and in each wheelbase length. What they don't advertise is, as you say, "the options" when you consider a "base truck" with hand crank windows, no carpet, no chrome, no cruise, light weight 17" wheels, 8 ply "small" tires, vinyl seat with little cushion, no tow hooks, no leather, heated/cooled seats, no electric options, no soundproofing materials, no "in bed hooks" no reading lights, no individual heat/ac controls, no console, no ??? The XLT weighs more than the XL, the Lariat weighs more than the XLT, etc on up the line. It's easy to see that the Platinum model will weigh significantly more than the base truck, so the payload will go down significantly with all those "extra weight options" that make up the "creature comforts" we add to the base truck. I hope this helps some with your calculations.....
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:19 AM   #36
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Like John says, weigh your truck, loaded like you are going camping, than subtract that from the publish GVWR. Don't go by the payload number. IMO they shouldn't even print that, it gives people a false sense of security.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:44 AM   #37
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Like John says, weigh your truck, loaded like you are going camping, than subtract that from the publish GVWR. Don't go by the payload number. IMO they shouldn't even print that, it gives people a false sense of security.
Do you mean with the 5er hooked up? Or unhitched and just fuel, camping gear, firewood or whatever else might be in back?
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #38
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Do you mean with the 5er hooked up? Or unhitched and just fuel, camping gear, firewood or whatever else might be in back?
Just the truck ready to hook up & go. That will give you your truest #s. For example, our 2009 crew cab 4x4 duramax z21 ready to hook up is 7071 lbs, leaving us 2029 for possible pin weight - 100 for the companion hitch we plan to buy. Assuming I added that right....
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:37 PM   #39
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Yep, just the truck loaded with everything and everybody. Subtract that number from your GVWR. My last weigh was 7640, I had a bit extra stuff in it. 9200 GVWR - 7640 = 1560 payload capacity left for fiver.
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Old 04-24-2014, 01:52 PM   #40
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Ocho,

When you're shopping and want to know how much weight you can add with the pin weight of a fifth wheel or with the tongue weight of a trailer, weigh the truck as you'll be travelling. That will give you a good "GENERAL" idea of how much extra weight you can add in the form of trailer weight.

THEN: When you buy the trailer (or if the dealer will let you) weigh the truck as it's ready to travel with the trailer hitched. That will give you an idea on what the trailer will add to your payload. REMEMBER: that the "empty" trailer will increase in pin weight/tongue weight significantly as you load it for travel. Once you have the trailer loaded for travel, on the way out of town for your first trip, stop at the scales to get your "real world" weights. Only then will you really know what your truck/trailer really weighs and whether you're over/under/just right...... Anything other than a scale slip showing the real world weight is "reduced" to a "best guess" and that's not a real good idea when you're close to being at payload.

On most 3/4 ton trucks, the payload is not as "great" as many owners think. I've seen some 38' and 40' fifth wheels being "lugged down the road" by F250 and C2500 trucks. It's obvious to any casual observer (state police/Commercial traffic enforcement) who is in the know that those rigs are "over payload"..... How much? Only a scale slip will show that...... I think that canesfan will agree that if you "believe" the GM specs data "advertised payload" for their 2500 series trucks and use that weight to buy a fifth wheel, you'll find that in almost every case, you'll be overloaded when you do get around to weighing your rig. There are very few "equipped as we use them" trucks that come close to the advertised "maximum payload" you'll find in the GM, Ford or Dodge sales brochure. Most 3/4 ton trucks have a 2000-2500 lb payload. Diesels are 400-600 lbs less payload than the same truck with a gas engine.
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