Not charging batteries with shore power

Yosemitebob · 01-12-2014, 11:35 AM

OK, so when hooked up to shore power, my batteries (two 6v in series for 12v) go dead after three days. I removed the converter and tested it without wires hooked up plugged into 110 and it is delivering 13.6v as it should. When hooked up to truck it also charges batteries as it should, it just when hooked up to shore power I get dead batteries. Breaker is working, all fuses are good, including the two 35a on the converter. I also tested output from converter while hooked up to shore power and it showed 6.3v with some loads still working, as this was done while at a overnight campground. The 6.3v is wrong, but then I didn't test it correctly by testing it with loads, just wanted to see if anything was coming out of the converter. The test on the converter today, was perfect as it was done out of the trailer with no loads.
I am really confused now. I can't keep staying places and seeing the batteries being drained when they should be charging hooked up to shore power. Suggestions from anyone to check something?

Yosemitebob · 01-12-2014, 03:02 PM

OK, so I just came back from the yard, took my generator to hook up power. Just to make sure both legs were hot, and they were both hot. So while I had the power hooked up I went to the batteries to see what was be delivered to them. Now the converter was giving me an output of 13.6 volts, but at the batteries all I'm getting is 12.8v and this is because I charged the batteries with my manual charger before I put the trailer in storage. So I'm not getting a charge voltage to the batteries. So I assume it has to be some where between the converter and the batteries. Also keep in mind that the TV charges the batteries when it is hooked up. This sure has me stumped.

I checked every visible link in the front compartment where the battery is and all were good.

**JRTJH** · 01-12-2014, 06:45 PM

When you measured the converter output at 13.6 VDC and the voltage at the battery(ies) at 12.8 VDC, were the batteries connected to the system or were you measuring only the converter output without the battery(ies) adding to/affecting the converter sensing circuits?

Yosemitebob · 01-12-2014, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

When you measured the converter output at 13.6 VDC and the voltage at the battery(ies) at 12.8 VDC, were the batteries connected to the system or were you measuring only the converter output without the battery(ies) adding to/affecting the converter sensing circuits?

No, I had disconnected the output wires from the converter, and got the 13.6v, and as I have a shut off switch by the batteries, I shut that off to get battery voltage, no stray loads even. Then when I had everything hooked up again, I measured the output at the batteries with shore power and still had 12.8 volts at the battery.

**JRTJH** · 01-12-2014, 08:52 PM

If the battery cutoff switch you're referring to is the Keystone installed switch, it is NOT a "battery cutoff switch" but rather is a "partial battery cutoff switch" There are a lot of circuits that remain active with that switch in the off position. The front jacks, slide motors, remote control system, and much else is still active. So, if there is a bad 30AMP DC autoreset breaker, a ground somewhere in the switch for any of the jacks/slides, or even a "monitor circuit" in the remote system, it will affect the voltmeter readings. I'd think that you'd get a much more accurate reading by disconnecting the positive and negative terminals and checking them. While they are disconnected, I'd be curious to know what the voltage in the batteries is. My guess is you'll get the same 13.6 VDC at the disconnected battery cables as at the converter. That will assure you the wiring in the trailer is good. If you don't get 13.6 VDC, you've got a high resistance ground (probably) somewhere in the trailer wiring.

Roller4Tan · 01-12-2014, 09:09 PM

The lights in my 5er were dimming, so I checked the output of the converter and at the batteries. Both read around 6 volts. I disconnected the battery and got 13.2 volts out of the converter. Hooked up thr battery and the output dropped to 6.3v. My conclusion was a bad converter. Replaced it and the battery recharged and output to the battery was 13.6v and back to normal and lights are back. My experience says your converter is bad. Your mileage may vary.

Yosemitebob · 01-13-2014, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If the battery cutoff switch you're referring to is the Keystone installed switch, it is NOT a "battery cutoff switch" but rather is a "partial battery cutoff switch" There are a lot of circuits that remain active with that switch in the off position. The front jacks, slide motors, remote control system, and much else is still active. So, if there is a bad 30AMP DC autoreset breaker, a ground somewhere in the switch for any of the jacks/slides, or even a "monitor circuit".

I should have included the fact that I installed another cutoff just after the positive lead right at the battery, to cut ALL draw from the battery. I wanted everything OFF while in storage. I have to turn it on to use the jacks to hook up so it has never been a problem of forgetting. I leave the keystone battery switch always on.

Yosemitebob · 01-13-2014, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roller4Tan

The lights in my 5er were dimming, so I checked the output of the converter and at the batteries. Both read around 6 volts. I disconnected the battery and got 13.2 volts out of the converter. Hooked up thr battery and the output dropped to 6.3v. My conclusion was a bad converter. Replaced it and the battery recharged and output to the battery was 13.6v and back to normal and lights are back. My experience says your converter is bad. Your mileage may vary.

That is exactly what happened to me when this started. Only my output dropped to 6.3 volts, close enough. My lights also started dimming on the third day of camping. Only WFCO told me it is perhaps a grounding issue. They said as long as I am getting 13.6v from the converter with cables disconnected the converter is functioning correctly, hmmm interesting. I also think the converter, but I don't have the manufacture behind me.

Javi · 01-13-2014, 07:25 AM

Take the home rolled cut off switch out of line and see if it starts charging correctly.

Yosemitebob · 01-13-2014, 07:35 AM

Javi, did that same results. Now, on a better note, I just talked to WFCO again, final test and results:

WFCO, take the batteries out of the loop, now run you 12v items, if they drop off it's the converter as the converter should run all regardless.

Test, did as requested, lights dimmed to about half.

WFCO, it's a capacitor in the converter, send it to us.

Conclusion, getting paperwork ready to go now.

Yosemitebob · 01-22-2014, 08:01 PM

Ok, the new converter came in today. Will not be able to install it until Monday of next week. So will let you all know the results the evening.

Yosemitebob · 01-27-2014, 04:34 PM

Converter installed and working like it should have from day one. It was a pleasure to work with WF instead of the dealer for this item anyway. Tested it without the batteries hooked up and wow, ALL 12v items worked, and at once. Then hooked up the batteries, and checked the charge rate, sitting at 13.7v charging.

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