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Old 05-06-2012, 02:33 AM   #1
Skippy
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Prblem with Hitch ??

New to this forum will fill in blanks later have big problem now though. We are
New to the 5th wheel have had TT before. I have hooked up 3 or 4 times now with no problem. I had my 5th wheel in shop for yearly inspection, I hooked up brought it home 10 miles or so. It sat for 2 days in driveway so we could clean it up. We have a 16k Reese slider hitch. Last night I was going to park it I moved the slider to the correct position. I then went to back it into spot where we park it and I have to jack it in like you would a camp site. Then as I pulled forward to straighten it out the trailer came off hitch, took my tailgate off and landed on the landing gear and came to a stop. How in the heck could this happen??? I did get it jacked up and hooked back to truck and parked. I am scared to go camping now don't want to go down road and have this happen. Everything is new we just bought hitch and trailer in Oct haven't even been camping yet. Wishing I had kept TT now.
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:12 AM   #2
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Just had the same thing happen a couple days ago. Mine was caused by stupidity, thought I heard it latch and didn't double check before trying to move it. Off to the salvage yard tomorrow to get a different tailgate.
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:42 AM   #3
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You should always look at the backside of the top plate after backing in to ensure the locking jaw snapped into place around the kingpin.

You're lucky you only lost your tailgate and didn't crush the sides of your truck bed!
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:55 AM   #4
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If you look at your trailer's kingpin, you will see that it is machined so that there is a larger diameter section where the pin is welded to the pinbox and then a smaller diameter section where the jaws or locking bar latches and then another larger diameter section at the very bottom. If your trailer is positioned too high, the jaws of your hitch can lock around the flange at the bottom of the pin. I have seen tractor/trailers go several miles until they encounter a corner or bump. As you back under your trailer the "pick-up plate" on the pinbox should contact the slanted weight bearing fifth wheel plate of the hitch about 2/3 the way up the plate. Once under the trailer you should not see any gap between the plates and ALWAYS visually confirm that the jaws are locked around the "skinny" portion of the kingpin.
The release handle of our Reese 16K hitch angles up and out for easier access over the bed rail. I have considered reducing the angle some because when the hitch is slid back this release handle could come in contact with the extended pin box frame when jack knifing form the good side, and, if the keeper wasn't latched over the release rod, it could allow the jaws to unlatch.
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:44 AM   #5
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Bed Saver

Hi Skippy, did the same thing last summer with my 318SAB Cougar forgot to lock the latch, but i had the Blue/ox bedsaver installed on my hitch and it saved the day, no damage to truck just felt dum, can buy them thru almost any rv dealer or online, peace of mind Don
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:21 AM   #6
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5th Wheel hookup procedure.

First thing about hooking up a 5th wheel trailer; I always listen for the solid clunk to know I have pushed the pin ALL the way back into the shoe. Second, I listen for the click of the release of the latching pin and you will see the handle jump when it does. Third, you check visually to insure the latch captured the king pin. Fourth, you hold your brake control full on and try and pull away WITH the landing gear still down. This tests the hook up. The rig should go no where... This is truck drivers hook up procedure and I use it when I hook up. Not saying one day I won't pull the same stunt but if you follow this procedure you never drop your trailer on the the truck. Once I almost pulled away from the trailer with the tailgate still up... Lucky for me the wife noticed and stopped me. People are talking to you while you are hooking up and saying goodbye and things get missed.. Just be glad no one was hurt; the tailgate can be replaced.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:57 PM   #7
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Thanks

Thanks Guys for input. I drove Tractor trailers for about 13 yrs so I know to see if jaws are closed and listen for click. That being said I have seen on a google search that the safety latch could cause this. I Do have to "Jack It" and go up a slight incline at same time. Like I said I drove it home from dealer about 10 miles before parking it.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:24 PM   #8
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.[/QUOTE]
The release handle of our Reese 16K hitch angles up and out for easier access over the bed rail. I have considered reducing the angle some because when the hitch is slid back this release handle could come in contact with the extended pin box frame when jack knifing form the good side, and, if the keeper wasn't latched over the release rod, it could allow the jaws to unlatch.[/QUOTE]

I googled it and found simular problem with other people I am leaning towards this I have to jack it in on a incline the safety latch is bent some. Would a lock help this from happening?
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:21 PM   #9
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As an extra precaution, I lock the latch/keeper after I have done the visual check to ensure the jaws are wrapped around the pin. By doing this, it serves two purposes; one, it prevents the keeper from being accidently flipped up; and secondly, it helps prevent some bonehead from flipping back the keeper, pulling out the release handle and watching me drive away as the 5th wheel comes crashing down on the truck rails and bed!
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msp2jxr View Post
First thing about hooking up a 5th wheel trailer; I always listen for the solid clunk to know I have pushed the pin ALL the way back into the shoe. Second, I listen for the click of the release of the latching pin and you will see the handle jump when it does. Third, you check visually to insure the latch captured the king pin. Fourth, you hold your brake control full on and try and pull away WITH the landing gear still down. This tests the hook up. The rig should go no where... This is truck drivers hook up procedure and I use it when I hook up. Not saying one day I won't pull the same stunt but if you follow this procedure you never drop your trailer on the the truck. Once I almost pulled away from the trailer with the tailgate still up... Lucky for me the wife noticed and stopped me. People are talking to you while you are hooking up and saying goodbye and things get missed.. Just be glad no one was hurt; the tailgate can be replaced.
^^^ I agree ^^^

I will add one more thing to all of the above! I always hit the hitch low, meaning that my pin is about 2" to 3" lower than the top of my hitch plate. So I need to lift the trailer/squat the truck to connect. This way I know the the pin is in the correct position in relation to the top plate and Jaws.

I also hold the brake on while connecting, then try to pull forward with it set to be sure I am locked!

I run a 5er tail gate, so don't need to lower, but still watch as I pull away.
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
As an extra precaution, I lock the latch/keeper after I have done the visual check to ensure the jaws are wrapped around the pin. By doing this, it serves two purposes; one, it prevents the keeper from being accidently flipped up; and secondly, it helps prevent some bonehead from flipping back the keeper, pulling out the release handle and watching me drive away as the 5th wheel comes crashing down on the truck rails and bed!
When we had the Sunline travel trailer, I used a long shank padlock to secure the ball coupler latch plus a locking pin to hold the shank in the receiver.

I always use a long shank padlock to secure the ball coupler on the boat trailer, too.

It's no different for the fifth wheel hitch. After double, double verifying that the jaws are firmly and properly locked on the pin, just like Festus, I lock the keeper down on the release handle with a padlock. I also use a locking 5/16" diameter shank pin to hold the upper section of the fifth wheel to the frame.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:18 AM   #12
Skippy
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Thanks everyone for input! I think it has to do with the latch and rod as mentioned by some. Looking at Hitch now that latch is bent so I think rod moved some and allowed king pin to come out. I will be putting a lock on it form now on. Never thought of it before just assumed you could put a lock on it to keep thieves away. I will be looking into the Pin saver or the Blue Ox bed saver as some have talked of.

I find it a little scary that a 2 inch piece of metal is all it takes to keep trailer from being a missle.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:28 AM   #13
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is it a sliding hitch? May-be you pulled the wrong lever?
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
.
The release handle of our Reese 16K hitch angles up and out for easier access over the bed rail. I have considered reducing the angle some because when the hitch is slid back this release handle could come in contact with the extended pin box frame when jack knifing form the good side, and, if the keeper wasn't latched over the release rod, it could allow the jaws to unlatch.[/QUOTE]

I googled it and found simular problem with other people I am leaning towards this I have to jack it in on a incline the safety latch is bent some. Would a lock help this from happening?[/QUOTE]

FWIW - after further observation - the jaw release handle is shaped and positioned as it is so it won't interfere with the slider release handle (which rotates from vertical to 45 deg either aft or forward - depending on which direction you are moving the hitch) - BTW - sorry about my explanation of how a kingpin is designed being a little too basic - in your OP you said you were new to 5ers - I did not know you were an experienced truck driver
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:26 PM   #15
Skippy
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No If I did that, when I pulled forward to lock it in place the trailer would have come off then. You have to hold trailer brakes on and let it slide and lock in place and it gets a good jolt. .
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
No If I did that, when I pulled forward to lock it in place the trailer would have come off then. You have to hold trailer brakes on and let it slide and lock in place and it gets a good jolt. .
Don't understand this statement!
My Reese 16K mod 30051 now known as a mod 30047 uses a two jaw design, unlocked it will open then close and lock around the King Pin without locking the handle. This way I can back into the pin, and then pull forward to make sure I have the pin! The jaws will not open, unless I pull the handle out to the open position.

I assumed that all 5th wheel hitches auto latched to some degree.
Specs:

Gross towing weight: 16,000 lbs
Vertical load limit: 4,000 lbs
Hitch height: 14-1/2" - 18"
5-Year limited warranty



Note: This fifth-wheel trailer hitch will not fit pickups with beds shorter than 6' unless used with a Sidewinder. It also will not fit trucks with flareside/stepside bed.
Reese Double Jaw
Secure, 2-Piece Jaw

Unlike the more economical slide-bar models, the rounded, 2-piece jaw on this fifth-wheel trailer hitch inhibits rattle and movement by securely wrapping around your trailer's king pin, resulting in easier hookup and a safer, quieter ride.

http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/...ieceJaw_aa.jpg


30047 Reese Fifth Wheel Trailer Hitch - 16,000 lbs
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:11 AM   #17
Skippy
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That is same hitch I have the 30047. The statement is from someone asking if I had hooked up wrong. Remember I drove home 10 miles across some country roads before this happened. I was saying when I moved slider back if not hooked up right it would have come loose then. I can't explain how it happened I know it did. The handle latch was down but not pad locked. When I backed it into parking spot and moved forward is when it came disconnected. I have talked to several people this has happened to if that latch isn't lock it will let handle move when on a tight turn on a in cline. All I know is I don't like this hitch and will be replacing it. I am looking into the Pul Rite Super Glide.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:46 AM   #18
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Check this out.

Skippy,

I know everyone has a great deal of love for the old 5er hitches but this is what I am pulling with and I love it so far. 20,000 lbs towing and 4,500 lbs vertical weight. Almost every forum I have been on talks trash about the hitch but I have had a great deal of success with it and beleive that it is easier to use than the old one. You definately know you are latched and locked with this guy! Check it out. The website is below. Maybe this is the hitch for you brother! Either way happy campin'!

http://www.andersenhitches.com/Produ...l-version.aspx
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:27 AM   #19
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[QUOTE

rhagfo : I assumed that all 5th wheel hitches auto latched to some degree.

[/QUOTE]

If I remember my older 5th wheel hitch with the sliding bar, it didn't have the auto latch feature. Before backing into the pin, I had to manually pull the bar open then back in until I heard the "thud". As you indicated, the open-jaw types are spring-loaded so you can back in with the jaws in the closed position. They slowly open up as you back in then spring shut around the pin.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:56 AM   #20
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I had to get a 16K Reese replaced under warranty. It was a bear to get to lock properly. Jaws would latch and "look" okay but latch handle would lack approx 1/2" of being fully in far enough to flip the lock holder over into groove on handle. IF you gave a good tug on trailer the jaws would spring open. Potentially a very serious situation that could see the trailer dropped.

Reese sent me a replacement head, and it works perfect everytime, and you must LOCK the rod every time
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