srw vs drw 1 ton truck

[jasin1]

So I’ve been looking at trucks the last few weeks and trying to decide between single vs dually and 8’ bed vs 6’
I currently have a 2012 ram 2500 6’ bed 4x4 diesel with airbags
I know the whole 3/4 ton vs 1 ton for towing fifth wheels has been beat to death but I really do think that anyone looking objectively would agree that it’s nothing more in SOME 3/4 tons... nothing more then artificially low gvwr for registering purposes
If you go on GM’s website and look at towing capacity’s it clearly has two lists for towing capacity’s for 3/4 tons. One for the new super inflated towing specs(which I believe they achieved by the 10 speed Allison and additional engine cooling)and those listed as 10000 or under gvwr. If you look to the right of the column it says” (10000 or over gvwr requires dot number)
That is the primary reason I believe for 3/4 ton truck gvwr being traditionally below 10000
People will argue all day it’s the physical limitation of the truck but it’s primarily for making the vehicles attractive to people that would be turned off by the prospect of getting into dot territory and paperwork associated with. My truck has everything the 1 ton has except ONE overload spring. Same axles ,4:10 gears and Diesel engine and brakes. BUT it doesn’t have the little sticker that says what I need. It’s nothing at all more then that. Safety wise it’s fine but I think the manufacturer also kept numbers a little low because with the increased factory warranty’s. it gives the factory some cushion for people pushing to max towing.
It’s amazing that GM’s new 3/4 tons have a higher gvwr then a lot of 1 ton trucks now. And higher payload.
I’ve decided to buy a new truck because I have an 8 year old truck and I know the Cummins will last a long time but there are a lot more parts on the truck that will not last. I hardly ever use four wheel drive but the forward drive shaft spins all the time. Never thought about it much before but there is 3 u joints on this double Cardon shaft setup. Cost me $300 to have that rebuilt and new end welded on at a driveshaft shop. There is a bunch of parts reaching there end of service life. Diff seals,axle ujoints,wheel bearings,exhaust and front end parts. I don’t want to be stranded somewhere between home and a vacation spot with a 12000 lb fifth wheel attached. I fix most things myself but not much I can do on the side of the road .
I’m sorry about the long segway but trying to see if anyone has the short bed megacab ram dually. I realize the long bed would be great for extra space in the bed and not needing a slider hitch but it looks like an aircraft carrier to me.. the 8’ srw also looks ridiculous to me but I’m just used to looking at shortbed crew cabs and I would say almost 80% of the population under 60 years old probably agrees at least with the srw ( short bed looking better then long bed). On the dually I think more like the long bed.
Anyone towing a single shortbed 1 ton with larger fifth wheel( 12000 gvwr)?
Also wandering about longevity of HO Cummins vs standard. On one of my boats I have twin 6bt 250 hp Cummins that will run forever. When they started bumping the hp up on these engines it decreased the lifespan
Not a lot of choices on the dealers lots right now but the employee pricing has me tempted to make the move

[jasin1]

Here is GMC’s updated and artificially reduced gvwr

[jasin1]

And I do realize that some 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks have more then just a overload spring as differences. I think the new 1 ton gmc has a 12” gear vs 11.5 in the rear diff ...I’m just talking about my particular truck. It has a lot more to do about bureaucracy then safety

[sourdough]

"Anyone towing a single shortbed 1 ton with larger fifth wheel( 12000 gvwr)?"


As you alluded to, the conversation about 3/4 vs 1 ton is a never ending debate and really doesn't address your concerns as far as I can tell although by your posts it is becoming a 3/4 vs 1 ton debate....again. Not really sure what all you are trying to determine but I can speak to the quote above.

Is there anything in particular you would like to know? I don't buy diesels but I do have the trailer in my signature which I can speak to; approx. 12,750/800 loaded.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

"Anyone towing a single shortbed 1 ton with larger fifth wheel( 12000 gvwr)?"


As you alluded to, the conversation about 3/4 vs 1 ton is a never ending debate and really doesn't address your concerns as far as I can tell although by your posts it is becoming a 3/4 vs 1 ton debate....again. Not really sure what all you are trying to determine but I can speak to the quote above.

Is there anything in particular you would like to know? I don't buy diesels but I do have the trailer in my signature which I can speak to; approx. 12,750/800 loaded.

Yeah I’m sorry. Got off on a tangent. Wondering if anyone has pros and cons of srwvs drw for towing larger fifth. ie do you regret not getting drw?

[Brentw]

Towed with a 3500 crew cab short box srw, handled a 13k 5th wheel fine. But the short wheelbase chucking got a bit tiring, driver doesn't feel it so much ( I guess due to holding the steering wheel) but a lot of complaints from passenger side. Went to a long box dually, the ride is much better, empty and loaded.
You get used to the length, would not go back to an HD short box. BTW, tapped the back of my cab twice with short box, cuz I did not feel the need to slide my hitch, sigh.

[Ken / Claudia]

Well until each company, Ford, GM and Ram go public and say why they put the numbers of 3/4 and 1 tons we can guess all day long. Until then we must use that White and Yellow sticker to determine what we should be loading and pulling with the vehicles.
I suspect that if you really dug down into your states vehicle code you would find it like Oregon. Many 3/4 ton vehicles need TRUCK licenses. It's all about what it is used for. And that has been beaten to death also, but in 1 sentence is it a comm. use vehicle or private vehicle. As just 1 example: Ambulances. They are a comm. vehicle hired to transport people no matter the GVW or GVWR.
The long bed vs short bed, I agree the short bed looks better. I owned 1 and never will another. It's not one is better then the other just different. I buy stuff that is 8 ft long and like leaving the tailgate closed. Also it holds more stuff by volume when using it as a truck.

[Brentw]

Okay sort of new question.
Short box-just wouldn't do it again.
5th wheel 15,5 k gvw.
3500 srw, traveled okay, was at or slightly above rear gawr,
3500 drw, feels more planted, better in wind, cornering, or evasive moves.
I do not regret going drw.

[Javi]

See my signature..

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by bjasin1

Yeah I’m sorry. Got off on a tangent. Wondering if anyone has pros and cons of srwvs drw for towing larger fifth. ie do you regret not getting drw?

I do not regret buying a srw. Like gas vs diesel, 3/4 vs 1 ton, GM vs Ford vs Ram; the debate is never ending and based on a what a person likes, UNLESS the load demands the abilities of a diesel, long bed or DRW.

I do not buy diesels, DRW or long beds by personal choice. That then makes me "deal" with the options that choice presents. In my case, I buy the truck and then, by choice, I must make the numbers of the trailer fit within the confines of the truck. If you have the trailer, it has to be the other way around.

I have driven duallys but not as a daily driver and not with a 5th wheel. I don't particularly like them but others love them. As far as towing, I use an Andersen hitch and don't have issues with hitting the cab or chucking...but I don't try to make 90+ degree turns. I do carry long stuff (up to 10/12') in the bed - it just has to be secured and flagged. I used to drive long beds and yes, they do ride a bit smoother but not a big thing to me.

[JDDilly]

I had a 2016 RAM 2500, just like the OP, and got a new bigger 5er. After pulling the new rig home and then on a short trip with some major cross winds, I started researching and looking at 3500s with DRW. I found a really nice TV that was traded after 11 months with 15K miles. I was more truck then the person needed and the DRW were not needed. After towing the last year with the new TV, I can not believe the difference. For towing a larger 5er, I would never get anything less for a TV.

[travelin texans]

I've had both long & short beds diesel & gas, towed about every kind of trailer you could mention, rvs are different than any other due their shear bulk, for my money if your rv is 12k+ (GVWR not dry weight) & 32'+/- long a 1 ton diesel dually 8' bed is the absolute best option.
With that said & my latest research if I were to buy a new truck tomorrow my 1st stop would be looking really hard at the Ram 3500 dually diesel Quad cab short box with B&W Turnover ball in the truck & a Goosebox hitch on the 5th wheel.
As for the differences in 3/4 to 1 ton I couldn't point my finger to anything specific other than towing experience, but there are differences & the numbers on the door post are the absolute legal difference whether they're built exactly the same or not or how they may need to be registered.
I'll agree about any truck can/will move just about anything you can hook to it, but being able to carry it within the given limits, posted by the manufacturer, of any truck is a different story.
I sincerely hope that the numbers posted on vehicles were arrived through testing by the manufacturer on the truck components & not some computer nerd sitting behind his monitor saying "oh that should be good on this truck & oh yeah that'll work for this one!".
There are countless Utube videos of how they arrive at the max tow weights with low profile utility trailers & goosenecks loaded with blocks directly over the axles, these test can in no way be compared to towing RVs where the load can't be shifted & the gigantic sail effect of the rv can't be lowered. Meaning that the advertised truck "max tow weight" means nothing to the rv buyer.
Never would I tell you or anyone else what to buy, that's totally you're choice be it right, wrong, legal or otherwise. As already mentioned this discussion has been going on as long as which brand of truck is best & to date an end is no closer.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by Javi

See my signature..

It would be nice having space for auxiliary tank. And Ram 8’ beds can be ordered with the 50 gallon tank as well

[jasin1]

Anyone have issues with rotating tires on drw. ? I’ve seen some videos where people say you have to dismount tires and swap them on different rims because the inside dual tire/wheel is typically a steel wheel with the aluminum one just on the outside tire

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

I've had both long & short beds diesel & gas, towed about every kind of trailer you could mention, rvs are different than any other due their shear bulk, for my money if your rv is 12k+ (GVWR not dry weight) & 32'+/- long a 1 ton diesel dually 8' bed is the absolute best option.
With that said & my latest research if I were to buy a new truck tomorrow my 1st stop would be looking really hard at the Ram 3500 dually diesel Quad cab short box with B&W Turnover ball in the truck & a Goosebox hitch on the 5th wheel.
As for the differences in 3/4 to 1 ton I couldn't point my finger to anything specific other than towing experience, but there are differences & the numbers on the door post are the absolute legal difference whether they're built exactly the same or not or how they may need to be registered.
I'll agree about any truck can/will move just about anything you can hook to it, but being able to carry it within the given limits, posted by the manufacturer, of any truck is a different story.
I sincerely hope that the numbers posted on vehicles were arrived through testing by the manufacturer on the truck components & not some computer nerd sitting behind his monitor saying "oh that should be good on this truck & oh yeah that'll work for this one!".
There are countless Utube videos of how they arrive at the max tow weights with low profile utility trailers & goosenecks loaded with blocks directly over the axles, these test can in no way be compared to towing RVs where the load can't be shifted & the gigantic sail effect of the rv can't be lowered. Meaning that the advertised truck "max tow weight" means nothing to the rv buyer.
Never would I tell you or anyone else what to buy, that's totally you're choice be it right, wrong, legal or otherwise. As already mentioned this discussion has been going on as long as which brand of truck is best & to date an end is no closer.

I test drove a 2020 ram mega cab shortbed dually and it drove really nice. ..life was much simpler when I bought vehicles on impulse and just traded in for different whenever I felt like it. Now I’m trying to buy for the long term. Looked at the for super duty but ima little hesitant about the aluminum body. Wonder what they will be like in 10 years.... and the ram 19/20 6.7 has a problem with the injector pump switched to cp4.2 and I’ve heard a lot of catastrophic failures. They supposedly updated the pumps on late model 20’s and you can tell by a large circle dimple on the outside of pump. I forgot to check the one I drove

[jasin1]

The gmc looks perfect but they alluded to making some design changes to the much debated front grill on (Chevy) and possibly to upgrading the interior so I don’t want to go that route. I also really don’t like the look and function of the angled tailpipe. Heard it can cause heat problems on front of rv if it goes into regen mode and truck is angled wrong

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I do not regret buying a srw. Like gas vs diesel, 3/4 vs 1 ton, GM vs Ford vs Ram; the debate is never ending and based on a what a person likes, UNLESS the load demands the abilities of a diesel, long bed or DRW.

I do not buy diesels, DRW or long beds by personal choice. That then makes me "deal" with the options that choice presents. In my case, I buy the truck and then, by choice, I must make the numbers of the trailer fit within the confines of the truck. If you have the trailer, it has to be the other way around.

I have driven duallys but not as a daily driver and not with a 5th wheel. I don't particularly like them but others love them. As far as towing, I use an Andersen hitch and don't have issues with hitting the cab or chucking...but I don't try to make 90+ degree turns. I do carry long stuff (up to 10/12') in the bed - it just has to be secured and flagged. I used to drive long beds and yes, they do ride a bit smoother but not a big thing to me.

If I go shortbed I will probably get the Anderson ultimate. I’ve heard that could cause warranty issues with keystone but I don’t think many issues
Could arise from that. I have a Reese 16k slider that I can’t stand using right now. I have a beater truck that I let the wife and kids use for hauling stuff but it would be nice to have the bed open again for traveling without the rv

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I do not regret buying a srw. Like gas vs diesel, 3/4 vs 1 ton, GM vs Ford vs Ram; the debate is never ending and based on a what a person likes, UNLESS the load demands the abilities of a diesel, long bed or DRW.

I do not buy diesels, DRW or long beds by personal choice. That then makes me "deal" with the options that choice presents. In my case, I buy the truck and then, by choice, I must make the numbers of the trailer fit within the confines of the truck. If you have the trailer, it has to be the other way around.

I have driven duallys but not as a daily driver and not with a 5th wheel. I don't particularly like them but others love them. As far as towing, I use an Andersen hitch and don't have issues with hitting the cab or chucking...but I don't try to make 90+ degree turns. I do carry long stuff (up to 10/12') in the bed - it just has to be secured and flagged. I used to drive long beds and yes, they do ride a bit smoother but not a big thing to me.

sorry for veering away but what keeps the Anderson hitch from rotating on the gooseneck ball and scratching up the bed? It looks like just the weight of the fiver holds the square base down on the bed. I wondered why it wouldn’t have at least one pin to hold in place on the base

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by bjasin1

So I’ve been looking at trucks the last few weeks and trying to decide between single vs dually and 8’ bed vs 6’
I currently have a 2012 ram 2500 6’ bed 4x4 diesel with airbags
I know the whole 3/4 ton vs 1 ton for towing fifth wheels has been beat to death but I really do think that anyone looking objectively would agree that it’s nothing more in SOME 3/4 tons... nothing more then artificially low gvwr for registering purposes
If you go on GM’s website and look at towing capacity’s it clearly has two lists for towing capacity’s for 3/4 tons. One for the new super inflated towing specs(which I believe they achieved by the 10 speed Allison and additional engine cooling)and those listed as 10000 or under gvwr. If you look to the right of the column it says” (10000 or over gvwr requires dot number)
That is the primary reason I believe for 3/4 ton truck gvwr being traditionally below 10000
People will argue all day it’s the physical limitation of the truck but it’s primarily for making the vehicles attractive to people that would be turned off by the prospect of getting into dot territory and paperwork associated with. My truck has everything the 1 ton has except ONE overload spring. Same axles ,4:10 gears and Diesel engine and brakes. BUT it doesn’t have the little sticker that says what I need. It’s nothing at all more then that. Safety wise it’s fine but I think the manufacturer also kept numbers a little low because with the increased factory warranty’s. it gives the factory some cushion for people pushing to max towing.
It’s amazing that GM’s new 3/4 tons have a higher gvwr then a lot of 1 ton trucks now. And higher payload.
I’ve decided to buy a new truck because I have an 8 year old truck and I know the Cummins will last a long time but there are a lot more parts on the truck that will not last. I hardly ever use four wheel drive but the forward drive shaft spins all the time. Never thought about it much before but there is 3 u joints on this double Cardon shaft setup. Cost me $300 to have that rebuilt and new end welded on at a driveshaft shop. There is a bunch of parts reaching there end of service life. Diff seals,axle ujoints,wheel bearings,exhaust and front end parts. I don’t want to be stranded somewhere between home and a vacation spot with a 12000 lb fifth wheel attached. I fix most things myself but not much I can do on the side of the road .
I’m sorry about the long segway but trying to see if anyone has the short bed megacab ram dually. I realize the long bed would be great for extra space in the bed and not needing a slider hitch but it looks like an aircraft carrier to me.. the 8’ srw also looks ridiculous to me but I’m just used to looking at shortbed crew cabs and I would say almost 80% of the population under 60 years old probably agrees at least with the srw ( short bed looking better then long bed). On the dually I think more like the long bed.
Anyone towing a single shortbed 1 ton with larger fifth wheel( 12000 gvwr)?
Also wandering about longevity of HO Cummins vs standard. On one of my boats I have twin 6bt 250 hp Cummins that will run forever. When they started bumping the hp up on these engines it decreased the lifespan
Not a lot of choices on the dealers lots right now but the employee pricing has me tempted to make the move

Also my reference to those over the age of 60 was not being disrespectful.. I think people over 60 probably have more wisdom and life experience to base decisions on. Not just for what looks the best. I was thinking about resale value if I decided not to keep more then 5 years

[Javi]

Originally Posted by bjasin1

Anyone have issues with rotating tires on drw. ? I’ve seen some videos where people say you have to dismount tires and swap them on different rims because the inside dual tire/wheel is typically a steel wheel with the aluminum one just on the outside tire

All 7 of my wheels are steel.. I don't have to worry and can swap till my hearts content..