Dometic DM2652 Coolant leak

[Cd264]

Hello i have a Springdale 220 and the Dometic DM2652 fridge has dumped all the coolant out.
Has anyone had any luck just replacing the coolant unit or is it better to replace the entire fridge. The cost of a new Dometic2652 replacement is about 4k CDN.

Any help I would be grateful for

Cheers
Chris

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Cd264

Hello i have a Springdale 220 and the Dometic DM2652 fridge has dumped all the coolant out.
Has anyone had any luck just replacing the coolant unit or is it better to replace the entire fridge. The cost of a new Dometic2652 replacement is about 4k CDN.

Any help I would be grateful for

Cheers
Chris

I have a Dometic propane/110V refrigerator in my camper and the cooling unit died. I replaced the cooling unit as that is a lot less expensive than a new refrigerator. It isn't that difficult but does require some help lifting out the refrigerator itself. If memory serves, I bought a US made JC Refrigeration cooling unit; they are based in Indiana. There is info on shipping to Canada on their website.

[chuckster57]

I would replace the cooling unit. JC refrigeration has very high quality units, and they may make a 12V compressor style.

[NH_Bulldog]

I also suggest trying to replace the cooling unit.

I believe that Dometic may be the last company that manufactures new RV gas absorption refrigerators, so supply is limited and they control the remaining market. Because of this, replacement refrigerators (if you can even find one at all) are VERY expensive and costs will continue to rise as RV manufacturers (historically the largest buyer of these units) move to 12V DC compressor units.

[Cd264]

Thank you! I am just wondering if anything else could have cause the cooling unit it to fail. I'd hate to replace it and find out something else causes it to fail.

[chuckster57]

There can be a variety of reasons why a cooling unit fails. Make sure you wear protective clothing, gloves and a mask when dealing with the residue.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

I have a Dometic propane/110V refrigerator in my camper and the cooling unit died. I replaced the cooling unit as that is a lot less expensive than a new refrigerator. It isn't that difficult but does require some help lifting out the refrigerator itself. If memory serves, I bought a US made JC Refrigeration cooling unit; they are based in Indiana. There is info on shipping to Canada on their website.

well this is great information, when ours failed the last time we replaced the propane/110V unit with a 12 volt compressor unit. One of the best choices we have made. refer stays at 33 to 35 degrees, and freezer just below or a few degrees above zero (F) even when at 100 degrees outside.
Our replacement unit was also JC Refigeration.

[Cd264]

We do dry camping so I'm afraid a 12volt fridge would drian our batteries and leave us high and dry

[JRTJH]

CD264,

In your first post, you said, "...the Dometic DM2652 fridge has dumped all the coolant out"

Then in a later post, you said, "I am just wondering if anything else could have cause the cooling unit it to fail."

The "coolant mixture" is highly corrosive and the system is vulnerable to corrosive pitting which causes leaks. So, as reliable as the system is, it can fail, especially if operated off level (which causes partial blockages of the coolant mixture, increasing the potential for corrosion to occur.

Did you actually observe "yellow powder" and/or "smell ammonia" ??? Or, are you making a guess that "the coolant leaked out" ???

RV absorption refrigerators use a coolant mixture of sulphur, ammonia and other caustic ingredients. If there's a leak, the smell of ammonia is readily apparent during and shortly after the active leak AND there will be a deposit of yellow powder/paste around the site of the leaking tube.

Did you see any of those indications of a leak? If you did, it's the coolant system and needs to be replaced. If you did NOT see the yellow powder or smell ammonia, then you might have another issue not related to a coolant leak.

ADDED: You posted this in the "warranty section" of the forum. Dometic has a 1 year warranty on the refrigerator which can be extended (with an inspection" documented by a certified Dometic technician. I believe there's also an additional 1 year extended warranty (total of 3 years) that you can purchase st the time of the "certified inspection after one year".... So, there's only a possible 3 year Dometic warranty unless you have some type of extended warranty policy on your trailer. What year is your Springdale ???

[Cd264]

Yes I did see the yellow powder and smelt the ammonia smell. I cleaned that all up ( I have Hazardous material training). Thank you for your input and I will try tor replace the cooling unit. I was just curious if there was any other components that may have lead to the failure of the cooling unit . There is no warranty as it's a 2018 trailer.

Thanks again

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Cd264

Yes I did see the yellow powder and smelt the ammonia smell. I cleaned that all up ( I have Hazardous material training). Thank you for your input and I will try tor replace the cooling unit. I was just curious if there was any other components that may have lead to the failure of the cooling unit . There is no warranty as it's a 2018 trailer.

Thanks again

My Dometic is in a 2002 model and was the original refrigerator and I guess I was lucky it lasted 23 years (was probably manufactured in 2001 or maybe earlier). It is working fine now that the cooling unit was replaced.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Cd264

Yes I did see the yellow powder and smelt the ammonia smell. I cleaned that all up ( I have Hazardous material training). Thank you for your input and I will try tor replace the cooling unit. I was just curious if there was any other components that may have lead to the failure of the cooling unit . There is no warranty as it's a 2018 trailer.

Thanks again

With that information, then the first step is definitely replacement of the cooling system. If everything was working prior to the leak and assuming you don't damage something while replacing the cooling system, then the refrigerator should work when you finish the replacement. That said, if you attempted to operate it for a prolonged time frame, you may have caused carbon to form on the burner orifice in the heat chimney or possibly burned out/overheated the electric element. Those are remote, "probably will be OK" possibilities, and you won't know until after you get the replacement cooling system installed and then function check the system.

If it was working before the leak, then it "SHOULD" work after the replacement. Good Luck.

[Cd264]

Thanks again!

[Mikelff]

Originally Posted by Cd264

Hello i have a Springdale 220 and the Dometic DM2652 fridge has dumped all the coolant out.
Has anyone had any luck just replacing the coolant unit or is it better to replace the entire fridge. The cost of a new Dometic2652 replacement is about 4k CDN.

Any help I would be grateful for

Cheers
Chris

As others have recommended the JC Refrigeration 12 volt system, they also make absorption replacement cooling units. You can call them directly to discuss your specific size fridge and the power requirement, as well as the absorption units. I replaced my cooling unit with the 12V compressor system and was the best money I have spent on my 5er. I have boondocked with it and had no issues. I did have a 2500W generator to recharge my batteries, no solar. My unit has one compressor, where many now come with two compressors, one for freezer, one for fridge. The 12v systems cycle once set temps are reached so you don’t pull constant amps from your batteries once you have reached your temps. My compressor pulls about 6-7 amps when running. I get 35-37 degrees in fridge and -18 to 0 degrees in freezer, in100+ degree weather. Of course the cooler the outside temp, the less your compressor will run. You don’t have to worry about propane fire issues while traveling and at fuel stops with a 12v system. You also get much, much faster temp recovery and initial cool down with a 12v system. IMO the 12v system is the way to go.