Loss of water pressure

[LeeMedic]

We have notice a significant loss of water pressure. There is plenty of pressure/water entering at the trailer hookup. Even when using the internal pump from the fresh water tank the pressure appears low.

Any idea what may be the cause?

It takes 33 seconds to fill a 2 liter bottle from the kitchen sink.

[hankpage]

Since it is both city and fresh water tank I don't think it is a kink in one of the hoses. I would check the screens in the city water inlet and the aerators on the sinks. I think there is also one on the inlet of the pump.If you have been camping where there is a lot of minerals in the water they can build up. Keep us updated on what you find, Hank

[chuck&gail]

In showers there is a government mandated flow restrictor, usually a washer with a small hole between the hose end and sprayer. Easily removed and thrown away. Could some helpful person have put one in your kitchen faucet? Try removing everything on faucet end and redo flow test.

[hankaye]

LeeMedic, Howdy;

Check for leaks?

hankaye

[Ron]

Aerators as mentioned, take the flow restrictors out, took care of my problem but be careful when in the shower and the kitchen or lave faucet are turned on, there will be a major inbalance in pressure and you will either get a blast of cold or hot water. Happy Campin.............Ron

Do you have a water filter at the city connection? It may be blocked.

[hankaye]

LeeMedic, Howdy;

Let us know what you find, please.

hankaye

[LeeMedic]

Originally Posted by hankaye

LeeMedic, Howdy;

Let us know what you find, please.

hankaye

We are currently at a different campgrounds, and no issues. It must of been weak water pressure. It seemed fine to me at the hookup. I am baffled.

[bgilly]

I was doing the peek-around check in our new Cougar. I removed the service panel (inside access) to my water heater and I discovered that one of my water lines was kinked to the water heater. Keystone uses these special 90 degree adapters to curve the PEX tubing. Apparently the turn and pull was so tight the PEX popped out of the 90 degree adapter. I picked up some PEX 90 degree fittings and removed the adapters. I liked the long sweep that the adapter provided versus the hard 90 of the fitting but it just simply would not work in the tight quarters.
Point being; though you may have had a campground water pressure issue, you may also give your plumbing lines the once over just to be certain you don't have a PEX line being compressed or kinked.

Bobby

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by LeeMedic

We are currently at a different campgrounds, and no issues. It must of been weak water pressure. It seemed fine to me at the hookup. I am baffled.

You can have good pressure and a low flow rate. The flow rate from an unrestricted hose will allways deminish when flowing thru the small 3/8" lines of the camper and every "T" connection and 90 deg. elbow restricts it further, as does the small valves in the faucets. Check the strainers as suggested and check that the heater bypass valve is fully closed. An open or partially open by-pass valve can cause water to issues to occure as well.
Check the flow in the toilet, it doesn't have a strainer or restricter and typically has the highest flow rate of any water outlet.

[Railcop345]

I have 2008 2955RL. When connected to city water, there is plenty of pressure. If I switch to the on-board pump, almost nothing. Removed outlet side and checked pressure. Stays between 20-22# and does not engage pump until pressure is down to 16-18. Pump is a Shurflo 2093-204-413 set at 30 psi. There are no visible kinks anywhere but have to admit I have not dropped the undercarriage cover to check all the way to the rear tank. Seems to be plenty of water just no pressure. Does anyone know if the system can handle 45-55# of pressure if I replace the pump with a larger capacity?
Thanks

[Festus2]

Before you replace your pump, you might check the pump itself for one or more of the following:
a) an air leak at the pump suction
b) a clogged intake strainer
c) a leaking pump diaphragm
d) inadequate pump wiring (too small guage wire)
e) a kink in the outlet line (yet to be determined)

You would have to take the pump out and disassemble it to check out some of the above possible problems.

The Shurflo pump probably has a kit which will contain a new diaphragm, check valve, and gaskets. The water lines in most RV's are designed to withstand approximately 45 psi pressure. Most demand water pumps produce about 35-45 psi.

[Railcop345]

Originally Posted by Festus2

Before you replace your pump, you might check the pump itself for one or more of the following:
a) an air leak at the pump suction
b) a clogged intake strainer
c) a leaking pump diaphragm
d) inadequate pump wiring (too small guage wire)
e) a kink in the outlet line (yet to be determined)

You would have to take the pump out and disassemble it to check out some of the above possible problems.

The Shurflo pump probably has a kit which will contain a new diaphragm, check valve, and gaskets. The water lines in most RV's are designed to withstand approximately 45 psi pressure. Most demand water pumps produce about 35-45 psi.

Thank you very much! I found a replacement on Amazon for $30 that is rated at 45 psi. So if I gotta take it out I'll just replace it BUT I will first check the supply side to make sure. The pump actually cycles okay, picks up the water and then shuts off at around 20-22# so I'm thinking I probably have a bad one.

[Railcop345]

Originally Posted by Railcop345

Thank you very much! I found a replacement on Amazon for $30 that is rated at 45 psi. So if I gotta take it out I'll just replace it BUT I will first check the supply side to make sure. The pump actually cycles okay, picks up the water and then shuts off at around 20-22# so I'm thinking I probably have a bad one.

I actually inspected the lines, not too bad a job, and found them all okay. Checked with Keystone about psi. All units are tested at 80 psi so , without endorsing anything, the tech indicated that a pump operating between 45-55 psi would be okay. Shurflo said that the 2088-422-444 has been discontinued and replaced with the 4008-101-E65 which is rated 3.0 gpm at 55 psi. They also said that the pump is probably not repairable.

[Jaydee63]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a 2011 Keystone Laredo 310 RE. The original owner stated all he ever used the pump for was winterizing as they always had a city pressure supply hooked up where they camped.

On our first outing using the on board water supply, every time we turn taps on, the pump cycles on and off every couple of seconds when a demand for water is requested. I checked the filter on the pump and it was clean.

(1) when I turn a tap on should not the pump run in a steady state in order to provide a constant flow of water ? Or is this on / off thing normal?

(2) if its not normal, what can I do to try and solve this issue of cycling?

(3) would it harm the pump at all to totally remove the filter on a permanent basis as it cuts the flow/pressure nearly in half?

Thanks in advance,

James

[Festus2]

James -

Usually, when you turn the pump on and water starts to flow, the pump does not shut off until you turn the tap off or very shortly afterwards. It is not normal for the pump to cycle on and off when the taps are open.

Questions for you ...
1) Does the pump come on for short periods after you turn the tap off? If it does, that could indicate air the line(s) or a leak somewhere in the line or at a connection.

2) Does it do this with just the cold water tap turned on? the HW? or both?

3) How is the flow of water coming out of the taps when you are hooked up to city water? If it too is slow, you may have a clogged filter in the faucet or in the FW city water connection.

At this stage, I wouldn't be removing the pump filter just yet until the cycling problem gets resolved.

Get back to us regarding the qstns asked. Thanks

[Jaydee63]

Originally Posted by Festus2

James -

Usually, when you turn the pump on and water starts to flow, the pump does not shut off until you turn the tap off or very shortly afterwards. It is not normal for the pump to cycle on and off when the taps are open.

Questions for you ...
1) Does the pump come on for short periods after you turn the tap off? If it does, that could indicate air the line(s) or a leak somewhere in the line or at a connection.

2) Does it do this with just the cold water tap turned on? the HW? or both?

3) How is the flow of water coming out of the taps when you are hooked up to city water? If it too is slow, you may have a clogged filter in the faucet or in the FW city water connection.

At this stage, I wouldn't be removing the pump filter just yet until the cycling problem gets resolved.

Get back to us regarding the qstns asked. Thanks

Thanks for your quick reply Festus,

Operation and pressure is constant using city water supply, both hot & cold taps, at all water outlets including flushing of the toilet.


When using the on board pump with on board water supply:

(1) at kitchen sink tap, operation is as before with both cold and hot water supply. Water runs good for several seconds then starts to slow down, almost to a stop, then springs back to normal for several seconds again. This cycle keeps repeating.

(2) same as above using the bathroom sink taps

(3) Shower taps work perfectly using the pump

(4) toilet water supply when flushed works normal

Seems the problem only happens when using sinks taps in either kitchen or bathroom.

Thanks,

James

[Festus2]

James -
Tis a puzzle. From what you have described, it seems that your pump is functioning ok since you get normal flow and steady pressure at the shower and toilet.
It also appears as though all of faucet filters are clear and clean since the flow/pressure when on city water is fine.
At this point, I can't think of a reason why the cycling and fluctuating pressure only occurs at two places: the kitchen and bedroom sink and only when using the pump. You haven't, by any chance, found any evidence of leaks around any of the connections going to or from the kitchen or bedroom sink have you?

I hope that hankpage, one of our moderators and who knows all about plumbing and all sorts of other stuff, will see this, jump in and solve your problem. At this point, all I have is questions and not much in the way of solutions for you. Who knows, I could jump up in bed at 3 am tomorrow morning and shout "Eureka!".

Let's see what others have to say - hopefully, someone with more plumbing knowledge will jump in and say,,, "I know the answer!"

[Jaydee63]

No leaks that are obvious or evident

[Jaydee63]

I removed the screens from both taps looking for dirt etc. Both were clean.

I then removed the flow restrictors from both taps and VOILA !! Problem disappeared. Everything now works great on both water sources.

Thanks Festus for your time,

James