Tail Gate Hits Power Jack

TheGriz · 10-31-2017, 06:07 AM

Hey folks,

When hitched up, the tailgate of my Silverado pickup hits the head of my power jack of my Laredo 288RL when trying to lower the tailgate (at about a 45 degree angle of tailgate). It just barely catches the front of the jack's "head". Depending on angle of TT to TV, sometimes will just touch the rocker switches or make more contact.

This can be a real PIA getting into the back of my truck's bed (have cap on bed) when hitched on trip, especially since that is at times where my 80 lb. pooch stays (WX contingent of course) if we head into a restaurant, store, etc. en route to our destination.

I understand that there are "hitch extenders" that would clearly fix the problem. But I also understand that significantly reduces tow capacity of the hitch. So I am very hesitant to go that route.

Any suggestions on how to alleviate this nuisance???

Regards,
Mike

Dave W · 10-31-2017, 06:30 AM

Can the jack be re positioned at all? Years back I had the same problem and just rotated the jack 180 degrees plus the plate between the frame rails had a very much larger mounting hole and gave me another 1/4-1/2". On mine, the jack had a triangular mount so I did need to drill 3 new holes.

You can also get creative if you have the tools and either hole saw a new mount hole or make up a different frame plate. If you make another hole, you may need to bolt/weld aa piece of steel on the existing frame monted plate.

As far as extension hitches - it adds a different lever arm to the combo which may mess up handling characteristics but of course is an option

ctbruce · 10-31-2017, 06:51 AM

Take out the bolts and rotate the whole thing. Reinstall the bolts. If it turns sideways, you should be clear.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Tinner12002 · 10-31-2017, 09:00 AM

A 2lb sledge would fix it...just kidding, if its barely hitting it then you could try drilling a new hole in your hitch but only if it were maybe 1 1/2" or less from the existing hole. I can't imagine that would make a noticeable difference in your towing. I'd have a machine shop do it unless you have a drill press. That's of course if you can't rotate the jack as others have mentioned.

mfifield01 · 10-31-2017, 09:37 AM

I drilled new holes in the power jack and turned it sideways. Now I can lower my tailgate while hitched up.

slow · 10-31-2017, 09:41 AM

Mike, what brand hitch do you use? Contact the manufacturer and check if they have a hitch head that extends out further from the receiver.

SteveC7010 · 10-31-2017, 10:12 AM

My Reese shank for the ball platform had two holes in it, allowing it to stick out a few inches further, but it is stamped right into the shank that using the more extended position lowers your weight ratings. Not a good option in my opinion for your situation. When I was pulling a 5,500# GVWR Sunline, it did not matter too much. But it will matter on our larger Keystones.

As pointed out, rotating the jack may give you enough clearance even if you have to drill new mounting holes.

Another option is to have a welding shop fab up a new mounting plate for the jack and mount it to the A-frame a bit back from its current position.

TheGriz · 11-01-2017, 07:02 AM

This place is great! I post my issue and in four hours I have several valid suggestions in return...the Brain Trust doesn't disappoint!!!

I went out yesterday after reading the above suggestions. I liked the idea of rotating the Power Jack. So out came the three bolts securing the jack to the A-Frame, and rotated the power head 120 degrees. Unfortunately that just won't work...the head significantly impacts the protective shroud around the two 30lb LP tanks, and the three bolt holes no longer line up.

BTW...the main shaft of the jack fits through a hole in the A-Frame with little play. So moving it back slightly isn't an option without cutting into frame to enlarge hole.

Rotating the head only 90 degrees will clear the tailgate and the LP tank shroud. But that is going to require some type of additional fabrication, welding, and drilling holes. I have a nice welder, Millermatic 211 MVP, that would be very sufficient for the job. But my welding skills are nothing I like to show off. I have to think about whether I want to tackle the job or take it to my buddy who is a professional welder and artist with steel...if I want to do it at all. Brand new unit, warranties, structural integrity keep running through my head!

Extending the shank via whatever method will mess with tow capacity. So I lean away from that option.

I tried the 2 lb. sledge approach but it didn't budge. Freaking thing came back and hit me right square in the head.

Thank God I couldn't find my 8lb sledge!!!

Anyway, any other thoughts out there?

Thank you for everything so far!
Mike

Alpine · 11-01-2017, 07:26 AM

Or..... your "metal artist" friend to customize your tailgate with a 2" divot out of the top! Hey, just saying!

It would be a great conversation starter at the next RV Park!

TheGriz · 11-01-2017, 07:29 AM

If I ever can find my 8 lb sledge, I'll give that a try!

slow · 11-01-2017, 09:49 AM

Go to a manual jack fitted with a 3/4" coupler nut on top to use with your 18 or 20V cordless drill. You will get the clearance and lift/drop your tongue much faster than what you are using now.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=703

TheGriz · 11-01-2017, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slow

Go to a manual jack fitted with a 3/4" coupler nut on top to use with your 18 or 20V cordless drill. You will get the clearance and lift/drop your tongue much faster than what you are using now.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...hp?albumid=703

Slow...thank you...another worthy alternative. Will keep it in mind if I don't go the re-fab route.

BTW...I was looking at the other pictures you posted. I love the "Travel Trailer Winterization" checklist you posted some time back!!!! Being this was the first time I winterized a TT, I sure wish I had it just a week ago. I will definitely print this and keep it in my TT for future reference. Excellent and very comprehensive!!! I suggest you re-post so that all have it fresh for their reference. Not sure if this forum has "sticky" threads, but that checklist would be a nice ready reference via a sticky.

Regards,
Mike

Mike

**chuckster57** · 11-01-2017, 06:44 PM

If you rotated the jack and it is real close to clearing the propane tank cover, just move the tanks back.

The tray they sit on is slotted to allow different placement on the A frame. Should be self tapping screws, and I have re used them plenty of times.

TheGriz · 11-01-2017, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If you rotated the jack and it is real close to clearing the propane tank cover, just move the tanks back.

The tray they sit on is slotted to allow different placement on the A frame. Should be self tapping screws, and I have re used them plenty of times.

I will take a look and hopefully I can get enough clearance by shifting tanks back. But I don't think so. The power head and LP tank shroud probably interfered with each other by at least 1" and possibly 2+". But will definitely check again. Thanks for possible solution.

Wilco · 11-01-2017, 07:30 PM

You can re position the top portion of the jack (where the switches are) without moving the lower portion of the jack. I did this several years ago so I could tow my trailer with the gate down when I haul my motorcycle. Here are the steps;

Use blocks to hold up the tongue so here is no weight on the jack.
Pop out the two plugs on the sides of the top piece (where the switches are).
Remove the two bolts you will find there.
Lift off the top piece and suspend it being careful not stretch the wires to the switches. (I leaned it against my propane tanks.)
On mine there were two holes 90 degrees from the original holes. If yours do not have these, you will have to drill the holes.
Tap these holes to accept the original bolts. It is a good idea to put a rag down inside the tube to prevent the metal shavings from falling down into the jack tube.
Reinstall the top piece using these new holes. You may have to wiggle it to align with the top of the jack screw.
Test the jack.

Tinner12002 · 11-02-2017, 02:56 AM

It looks like in your first pic everything clears...if its just that the holes don't line up redrill them in the camper frame to line up with jack.

Dave W · 11-02-2017, 03:36 AM

Then there are 5th wheel tailgates .....one fixed a tailgate problem on the last 5er

Drydays · 11-02-2017, 05:16 AM

I re-drilled out the holes on the tongue mount a little larger, one size bigger. Walla.
Good luck.

TheGriz · 11-02-2017, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilco

You can re position the top portion of the jack (where the switches are) without moving the lower portion of the jack. I did this several years ago so I could tow my trailer with the gate down when I haul my motorcycle. Here are the steps;

Use blocks to hold up the tongue so here is no weight on the jack.
Pop out the two plugs on the sides of the top piece (where the switches are).
Remove the two bolts you will find there.
Lift off the top piece and suspend it being careful not stretch the wires to the switches. (I leaned it against my propane tanks.)
On mine there were two holes 90 degrees from the original holes. If yours do not have these, you will have to drill the holes.
Tap these holes to accept the original bolts. It is a good idea to put a rag down inside the tube to prevent the metal shavings from falling down into the jack tube.
Reinstall the top piece using these new holes. You may have to wiggle it to align with the top of the jack screw.
Test the jack.

Roger Wilco!!! That's sounds like an excellent approach. I will definitely check that out very shortly and let you and all know the results!

Thanks!
Mike

TheGriz · 11-02-2017, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilco

You can re position the top portion of the jack (where the switches are) without moving the lower portion of the jack. I did this several years ago so I could tow my trailer with the gate down when I haul my motorcycle. Here are the steps;

Use blocks to hold up the tongue so here is no weight on the jack.
Pop out the two plugs on the sides of the top piece (where the switches are).
Remove the two bolts you will find there.
Lift off the top piece and suspend it being careful not stretch the wires to the switches. (I leaned it against my propane tanks.)
On mine there were two holes 90 degrees from the original holes. If yours do not have these, you will have to drill the holes.
Tap these holes to accept the original bolts. It is a good idea to put a rag down inside the tube to prevent the metal shavings from falling down into the jack tube.
Reinstall the top piece using these new holes. You may have to wiggle it to align with the top of the jack screw.
Test the jack.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Many, many thanks Wilco!!!

That solution was slicker than "snot on a doorknob".

Took about 30 minutes to finish, and most of that time was to tap the other two holes. For other's clarification, note that the Jack's mounting plate to the A-frame is NOT rotated (can't really see in picture), just the power head is rotated 90 degrees.

Check out the pictures. Now the tailgate clears the jack's power head by roughly two inches, and that is with my TV pitched uphill relative to the TT. I love this place...and thank you for the suggestions from ALL of you! Now I can save my back and knees from contorting myself to get into the bed when all hitched up.

Mike

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