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Old 03-08-2013, 05:54 PM   #1
labs4life
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Heater not working

Just pulled into campground and fired up heater. All was fine. One bottle ran out of gas and died. Swapped over to new bottle and nothing. Stove works and outside grill works. Heater is no-go. It comes on and lights but will not stay on one igniter quits sparking. Brand new camper. Been out 3 times in the last 2 months.

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Old 03-08-2013, 06:45 PM   #2
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You may have turned on the new bottle too fast and activated the antileak valve in the pigtail. Turn off both LP bottles, disconnect both pigtails, then reattach both of them, turn on a gas burner on the stove, listen until it stops hissing, turn it off, then go back outside and SLOWLY turn on the full LP bottle. Then light the stove burners, the Water Heater and try the furnace, all should be good

There is a safety valve in the pigtail that senses a rapid flow of LP and shuts off the bottle as a safety measure. It's designed to stop gas flow should you have a ruptured line or another BIG gas leak. Unfortunately, it's not quite smart enough to sense the difference in rapidly filling the empty gas lines under your RV and a leak

Hope this fixes your problem
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:02 PM   #3
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By pigtail I assume u are talking about bottle connections.
Did that and nothing. I have gas to the grill stove and oven
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:30 PM   #4
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The pigtail safety valve is activated on the good bottle. maybe if you switch bottle position and hook the full bottle to the pigtail of the empty bottle and SLOWLY turn it on, it'll work for you.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:49 PM   #5
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Still a no go. Have gas everywhere. The furnace will light while the igniter is striking just will not stay lit. Even reset the breaker but nothing.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:58 PM   #6
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Press and hold the slider on the thermostat just slightly and see if it will stay lit.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:05 PM   #7
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The thermostat slider has no function other than back and forth. I am at a loss!!!!
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:07 PM   #8
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Sad is thinking that the thermostat contacts on the slider switch may not be making good contact, by pressing on the plastic slider, you'll force a better contact, it may be the thermostat not making good contact...... Slide the thermostat to 80 or so and push in on the slider and see if it stays lit is what he's saying to do
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:11 PM   #9
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It is digital thermostat. I tried pressure on the heater side of it
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by labs4life View Post
It is digital thermostat. I tried pressure on the heater side of it
My factory analog died with exactly the symptoms you described. My slider went bad...

I got tired of standing there all night with my finger on it while my wife slept. Replaced it with $20 digital and got some zzzzzzz.

Sounds like your problem may not be as simple. Sorry it didn't help. Always worth a shot to try.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #11
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If the LP tanks are providing gas and the rest of the LP appliances are working, it's either the high temp switch or the thermostat. If I knew which color wires controlled the furnace I'd suggest you hot wire those two wires, but I'm not sure which color wires it is on that thermostat, so I wouldn't suggest it. Do you have any other heat source for the rest of the weekend? If so and if it's not too cold, I'd just plug in the electric heater and get with the dealer on Monday.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:20 PM   #12
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No problem. Thanks for the advise. All mine started when my auto changeover did not auto changeover. One bottle dry the other was good.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:27 PM   #13
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That's why I was thinking it was the pigtail. It may still be that. In the morning, disconnect both bottles, turn on the stove and let the gas pressure go down and then reconnect the known full bottle to the side of the regulator where the empty bottle was. Those DARN pigtails are not worth the time or effort to throw them away, but we're all stuck with them Once that anti leak valve closes, it takes time for it to reopen, and if it is wet or extremely cold, it may not work until it gets home, dry and the sun shines on it for a while. If the furnace was working on what is now the empty bottle, that side of the regulator should still be good, just don't crank open the full bottle too fast or you'll activate that antileak valve too
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:30 PM   #14
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Will try that too!!
Thanks!!
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:36 PM   #15
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Well, if you're in your camper and out away from the house, you're doing what at least half of us that are still stuck at home wish we were doing. Not having heat isn't real comfortable, but if you have another way to stay warm, the heck with the furnace, enjoy what we all wish we were doing with you LOL

Good luck, let us know how it goes when you do more troubleshooting in the daylight.... It always seems after a decent night's sleep and in the sunlight, things just work better <wink>
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:40 PM   #16
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Will try that too!!
Thanks!!
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:43 PM   #17
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No problem for me being cold. The DW gets grouchy if the six month old gets chilly. We all know what happens then. Daddy is not happy either because Mommy is not happy!
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
If the LP tanks are providing gas and the rest of the LP appliances are working, it's either the high temp switch or the thermostat. If I knew which color wires controlled the furnace I'd suggest you hot wire those two wires, but I'm not sure which color wires it is on that thermostat, so I wouldn't suggest it. Do you have any other heat source for the rest of the weekend? If so and if it's not too cold, I'd just plug in the electric heater and get with the dealer on Monday.
DW gone to get electric heater now. I would have gone but I have been troubleshooting.....and drinking.........
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:43 PM   #19
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Had somewhat the same happen to me last year, water heater and stove worked fine but furnace would not stay running. Would light then go out over and over. It was the change over reg itself. Could not get more than 6.5 IWC (inches water column) in the manifold. Book says the furnace needs to have at least 11 IWC and a max of 14. Found these figures out when I returned home and attached a manometer to the system. Replaced the reg and no more issues. New reg was factory set to maintain 12.5 IWC. So far so good. My issues came to light when the outside temperature would drop below 30*.
Happy Campin.....
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:10 PM   #20
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I am taking to a dealer this week to be checked out. That sounds like what my problem is, but then again, so did all the other suggestions
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