Winterize $55

[Scorn]

I have a 2014 Bullet 24 BHS camper and the dealer will winterzie my camper for $55.00 but I have to drive one hour to the dealer.

So counting gas its about $85.00 Is it worth it?

[LZScout]

It took me 4 gallons of RV antifreeze at $4 each and about 2-3 hours plus the use of an air compressor I already had. Mine didn't need any parts added to winterize, some do. First time doing it, so it probably took me longer. You be the judge.


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[cabinfever]

Originally Posted by LZScout

It took me 4 gallons of RV antifreeze at $4 each and about 2-3 hours plus the use of an air compressor I already had. Mine didn't need any parts added to winterize, some do. First time doing it, so it probably took me longer. You be the judge.


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Same here. Now that I have winterized, I think I could finish the job in an hour if I really wanted to. Another reason for doing it yourself, you will familiarize yourself with more parts of your camper.

[crash]

We dont really winterize ours because we use it year round we go some where once or twice a month year round,We open all faucets and blow shop compressed air thru the lines and leave all faucets open ,turn the electric heater on 50 and that has been working for me so far.

[Bluewater]

I did mine in half an hour and two gallons of the pink. Easy once you do it several times. So the dealers loves you if you have them do it.

[diugo]

If you thoroughly drain all the water out of the system, why would you even need to spend $16 on antifreeze?

[LZScout]

I was told that draining the system and using compressed air would not remove all the water, that's why I also use antifreeze.


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[hankpage]

Originally Posted by LZScout

I was told that draining the system and using compressed air would not remove all the water, that's why I also use antifreeze.


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If you blow out the lines completely you only need antifreeze for the traps and toilet. Just be sure to blow out everything including WH bypass valve, outside shower and low point drains. That said .... I run the remaining antifreeze (about 1/2 gal.) through the pump with the furthest faucet open, just to play it safe. In 20 years of RVs I have never used more than 1 gallon to winterize and never a problem. JM2¢, Hank

[Outbackmel]

For 3 years I diligently drained all low points , water heater, pink in toilet, drains etc. Picked unit up from mountains in January, stopped by the house to load and checked weather from home to below possible frost . All good. Soooo, filled fresh water tank for mobile use. Tested systems. Ohhhh no, hairline crack in small water intake to toilet. Fortunately we have a great dealer 5 miles from home. Had the part and installed it in 15 minutes for a small fee and we had a great trip.
Point: pumping anti freeze through the lines would have prevented this.

Lesson learned. Use pink. No big deal.

[diugo]

Hankpage and Outbackmel and LZScout, thanks for answering my question! I will invest in a single gallon of "pink" if/when I ever need to winterize. I think I would skip the compressed air part though.

[JRTJH]

My "opinion" (yes, we all have them) is that the low point drains may not get all the water out of the lines. If there's a sagging line, a point where the line falls "below the grade" so to speak, water will collect there. If there's a water line closer to the pump or input fitting that is lower than the line leading to the low point drain, it will form a sort of "P trap" and collect water.

"IF" you can use compressed air and blow all of that collected water out of the system, then theoretically there's no need for antifreeze. If, however, water stays in the lines after being forced into a "mist" by the compressed air and as it collects, forms pools or puddles of water, in those places, you didn't quite get all the water. In comes the antifreeze to act as "insurance" against frozen lines and damage that could result.

I buy my antifreeze at Ace Hardware, every year they run a special for $2.99 a gallon with a $1 rebate making it $1.99 a gallon. I normally use 3 gallons, so that's $6 for antifreeze, about a nickle's worth of electricity to run my air compressor to blow the lines and maybe an hour of my time. For me, that's cheap insurance considering that the cost of even buying one compression fitting is going to be at least $10.

I say, to each his own, winterizing seems to have become much like interior color schemes and nitrogen vs air in tires. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes. Hmmmmmm

Your views may differ.

[poncho62]

I used to blow out the lines, pour a bit of antifreeze in and blow that through. Rest of jug in the traps. Worked well, never froze a pipe
This year, bought a different trailer, the water pump is in one of the outside compartments, easy to get at. I disconnected the intake side, ran a hose into a jug and pumped it through. Took 2 gallons with putting enough in the traps......but I find this way much easier....and no chance of any water being left in the pipes.

[diugo]

I'm now sold on the value of the antifreeze---just not the compressed air. Because if you pump antifreeze out every single faucet and drain cap, how can there possibly be any freezable liquid remaining in the system???

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by diugo

I'm now sold on the value of the antifreeze---just not the compressed air. Because if you pump antifreeze out every single faucet and drain cap, how can there possibly be any freezable liquid remaining in the system???

If there is water in the lines when you start, it will mix with the antifreeze and dilute it. You can easily get pink at the faucet and have a mixture of water/antifreeze that won't protect down to the advertised -50F. If you blow the lines out first, there's less potential for dilution and a "stronger" antifreeze solution.

It's the same with the "P" traps. If they're full of water when you start and you pour 1 cup of antifreeze into the drain, did you displace all the water or did you dilute the antifreeze? If you diluted, how much? There's no question you're protected if you blow the water out first.

[diugo]

Right, but does everyone need protection down to -50F!? Vehicle radiators survive just fine with a 50/50 mix, which protects to -34F.

So I stand by my assertion that compressed air is a waste of time.

Now, if you wanna discuss compressed NITROGEN

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by diugo

Right, but does everyone need protection down to -50F!? Vehicle radiators survive just fine with a 50/50 mix, which protects to -34F.

So I stand by my assertion that compressed air is a waste of time.

Now, if you wanna discuss compressed NITROGEN

My answers are aimed at users in all locations (unless otherwise stated in the text). If you choose to winterize to a "Southwest where it never freezes" criteria, by all means.....

I've seen 30 below temps here in the past 3 consecutive years. Protecting to -34 is too close to "payload" for this area. I'm sure all the members in Canada who read these threads will agree as will nearly anyone above the 45th parallel.

Whatever tickles your fancy is what you need to do with your RV.

cheers

[Scorn]

Originally Posted by LZScout

It took me 4 gallons of RV antifreeze at $4 each and about 2-3 hours plus the use of an air compressor I already had. Mine didn't need any parts added to winterize, some do. First time doing it, so it probably took me longer. You be the judge.


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Don't you need a certain part to hook up to the air compressor? I do have one so what else would I nee?

Thanks

[JRTJH]

If you already have the compressor with a 1/4" quick connect fitting on it, all you need is one of the CAMCO RV blowout plugs. They are available at Amazon.com, CW and most RV dealerships. The ones I've seen at WalMart do not connect to the air compressor quick connect so you would need to stand by it and hold the compressor fitting to the adapter much like you would need to do to add air to a tire. The quick disconnect type is much more convenient.

Keep in mind, don't apply air pressure greater than about 30 or 40 PSI or you could damage your plumbing lines.

[LZScout]

I wanted a fitting I didn't have to hold on to. I just went to Home Depot/ hardware store and got the parts to make a conversion from a female hose connection to an air compressor fitting.


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[Jca3]

We have been antifreezing our trailers for years. No air compressor and have great luck. Very inexpensive and easy to do. Sometimes we have winterized then wanted to go out again with our great fall days so winterize a second time when we come home.
Why risk broken pipes with such a simple task?