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Old 10-18-2011, 01:40 PM   #1
wrighfr58
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7 way plug and Battery

I plan on removing my battery before storing my RV. Can I still power the RV from the 7 way plug on the Tow Vehicle? My storage facility is strick on just getting in and out. I thought that as long as I could get power to the RV to operate the the levelers to hook-up and move out, I could install the battery later.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:24 PM   #2
captbru
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I WOULDN'T DO IT, you won't have any emergency power in case the trailer comes unhooked. Very remote but....also you can operate the the jacks from the truck battery, but it will drain your truck battery. The storage yard can't be that strick, have everything undone except the battery terminals and after set up take the battery out.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:32 PM   #3
wrighfr58
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I should have been more specific. Can I use the truck battery to retract the levelers and then once outside the facility install the battery? Nothing long term..just enough time to get outside.

I agree not a smart move to tow this way for any distance.
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:39 PM   #4
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wrighfr58, Howdy;

Do NOT allow the knuckle-heads at the storage yard to cause you to rush thru your routine of parking the Trailer. That's how mistakes/accidents happen. Take your time, do what YOU KNOW you need to do.
Use a check list, cover your bases, make sure things are RIGHT in your mind before leaving it in their care (such as that might be...).
It's a huge investment, be sure your happy then say see ya.

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Old 10-18-2011, 04:36 PM   #5
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agree a 100 percent. it only takes a few min to undo-redo your batt. if they have problems with that, then i would hit the road and find someplace else. i could see them complaining about doing repairs or just "hanging out" for a little bit. but as long as you are doing something to the trailer to pervent a theft, or to save the investment of your trailer or there property. it usually takes me about 10 min to hook up, and that includes closing the windows and hooking up batt., turning on the propane and starting the fridge, do a walk around, kick the tires(i know, i know, not the best way to check pressure) and hit the road. i don't consider that a whole lot of time. and most everything that i do is to ensure the safty of myself, family, and others around me. if they don't like it, they can.....well you get the idea.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:44 PM   #6
Johnnyfry
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Storage

I fully agree with Hankaye's assessment. Another point to consider is that the 7 way connector is rated at about 20'amps. Anything more ( like leveling motor) and younwill overheat the contacts and deform them,resulting in a poor or intermittent connection until you replace the plug and cable.

John
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Old 10-18-2011, 05:20 PM   #7
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I would also be concerned about the truck wiring handling the amperage needed to run the landing gear. The truck wire is probably no bigger than 14 gauge and is a low current charging line, not a full power battery line. It is a long way from the battery of the truck back to the 7 pin. Length equals added resistance which translates directly to heat when excessive current is pulled through the wire. The potential for damage to your truck wiring is real and could be very costly to repair as the wires are usually bundled with many other wires. An overheated wiring harness is beaucoup costly to replace.

If your battery is like mine, it is connected via two threaded posts with wing nuts to hold the lugs down tight. It should only take a minute or so to undo the wing nuts, remove the wires, and move the battery to the truck.

I have to do much the same thing as you, but the owner of my storage lot is an RV service manager and he understands these things. He won't object to the couple of extra minutes it takes to pull the battery for the winter after parking the trailer.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:26 AM   #8
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Thank you all! I am new to this site and new to RV'ing. Your experience guidance and helpful hints are appreciated.

I plan to stay the course and do the right thing.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:48 AM   #9
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Howdy All;

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC7010 View Post
I would also be concerned about the truck wiring handling the amperage needed to run the landing gear. The truck wire is probably no bigger than 14 gauge and is a low current charging line, not a full power battery line. It is a long way from the battery of the truck back to the 7 pin. Length equals added resistance which translates directly to heat when excessive current is pulled through the wire. The potential for damage to your truck wiring is real and could be very costly to repair as the wires are usually bundled with many other wires. An overheated wiring harness is beaucoup costly to replace.
I don't think that this is a worry unless you wire the landing gear directly to the 7 pin plug wire.

The TV wireing will charge the TR batteries which will supply the amperage to extend/retract the landing gear. The design is such that you can ext./ret. the landing gear while boondocking or anywhere necessary without external power (30 or 50 amp).

Only my humble opinion ... your mileage may vary...

hankaye
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
I don't think that this is a worry unless you wire the landing gear directly to the 7 pin plug wire.

I do believe the OP wanted to run the landing gear with no battery connected. That would create the exact situation we're discussing.

The larger wiring in the trailer is fine, but the 14awg stuff in the truck is borderline at best to handle the current draw of the landing gear motor by itself.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:08 AM   #11
wrighfr58
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Thanks all for your help!

Here is my plan.

1. I will install a battery disconnect to use during the season. This will protect the battery from any drains.
2. I will replace the Hex Nuts on the battery and replace with wingnuts to for install and removal ease.

Make sense?
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:23 AM   #12
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that is how mine is wired on. it makes it easy to take on and off. just make sure it is stays tight for ya and you should be in good shape. some of the people on here will hook up a disconect switch, but i am not sure how that is done.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:01 PM   #13
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SteveC7010

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveC7010 View Post
I do believe the OP wanted to run the landing gear with no battery connected. That would create the exact situation we're discussing.

The larger wiring in the trailer is fine, but the 14awg stuff in the truck is borderline at best to handle the current draw of the landing gear motor by itself.
You are correct!
I lead myself to think ( should know better by now), he would have still had the batteries in the Trailer.
Gotta work harder to understand before inserting size 13 feet into mouth...
My apologies;

hankaye
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:02 AM   #14
SteveC7010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankaye View Post
My apologies;
None needed. I am pretty much guaranteed to do the same thing sooner rather than later.
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