2500 HD hitch question

[the sodfather]

Let me start off by saying that I do not want to be crusified over asking this question. I realize there are some very intelligent folks on here that know more about towing than 99.9% of everyone else. I've read enough posts on here where it becomes a pissing match on the "proper" ways to hitch up and tow. Whew! Now the question...

My new truck came with a Class V 2.5" reciever hitch. Rated for 2500 lbs. hitch/tongue weight and total 18,000 lbs. for pulling. My trailer is a 5200 lbs. Bullet 272 BHS. I have a 12,000 rated Equalizer setup. (My old TV needed the assistance of that hitch and I still feel like the tail was wagging the dog.). Do I need the fancy Equalizer hitch anymore since my 2500 HD is now way overkill for my trailer? I'm guessing if I still use the Equalizer hitch, it's only really going to be for sway control.

[BirchyBoy]

I'd use it. Sway is sway, regardless of what's doing the pulling.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

I'd use it. Sway is sway, regardless of what's doing the pulling.

I agree. even if you don't load the bars heavy, sway is still a consideration.

[CaptnJohn]

You may be fine ~~ however a cross wind could be just one thing that causes nasty sway. I'd use it for sure. If the bars give you a problem,,, height helps. When towing TTs before the 5ers I sandwiched two 4x4s between two 2x8s to drop the tongue on. That gave a lot of extra height and 1400# bars just slipped on. I also learned, in addition to be easier than turning a crank-- electric jacks have more lift.

[the sodfather]

Originally Posted by BirchyBoy

I'd use it. Sway is sway, regardless of what's doing the pulling.

Originally Posted by chuckster57

I agree. even if you don't load the bars heavy, sway is still a consideration.

Wasn't really planning on not using it, just curious if I was missing anything in the math or such.

Thanks!

[the sodfather]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

You may be fine ~~ however a cross wind could be just one thing that causes nasty sway. I'd use it for sure. If the bars give you a problem,,, height helps. When towing TTs before the 5ers I sandwiched two 4x4s between two 2x8s to drop the tongue on. That gave a lot of extra height and 1400# bars just slipped on. I also learned, in addition to be easier than turning a crank-- electric jacks have more lift.

Ya, electric jack is on my Christmas list...👍😉

[JRTJH]

Jason,

The "heavy duty hitch" is rated higher than your previous hitch, but if you consider the "why" of weight distribution, the class of the hitch is only one consideration for "why" weight distribution is needed.

First, yes, the hitch is "rated" to tow more, both "static weight" and "Weight distributed weight". When used as a 2.5" receiver (without the adapter) your hitch is rated:
Weight distribution: 16,000/1600
Weight carrying: 8,000/800

With the adapter sleeve in place, the hitch is rated:
Weight distribution: 12,500/1250
Weight carrying: 6,000/600

The difference with the adapter sleeve is because the part that slides into the receiver is smaller (2") vs without the adapter sleeve (2.5"). The larger bar stock won't "twist and bend" as easily, so it's rated higher. It doesn't matter "to the hitch receiver" (the part mounted on the truck frame), it's the same. It's what goes into it that reduces the capacity.

Now, with that hitch on the truck, you're correct, the "RECEIVER" is rated to carry more weight than your trailer puts on it. But you also need to consider the "loading factors" that come into play when you add any weight "behind the rear axle" of your truck. You will change the loading on the front wheels (steering/braking) and change the performance characteristics of the truck. It likely won't be noticeable, or very little difference, except for the "headlights in the sky" condition, when towing at reduced speeds and on level pavement. Where you will notice a significant degradation in stability/braking is in adverse conditions. On ice/snow, muddy roads, gravel, "washboard" surfaces.

Essentially, without weight distribution, placing 500-700 pounds of trailer tongue weight "behind the rear axle" will "load the rear springs and unload the front springs". It will reduce the weight on the front tires, lessening their contact with the road surface and reduce the steering capacity. Should you "cross a railroad" and find that on the other side your front wheels are "off the ground momentarily" you'll know what "no steering" feels like.

Under "average" towing conditions, you probably won't notice any "steering wheel feel" difference with or without using your weight distribution bars, but when the "stuff hits the fan", you will probably be very thankful that the WD bars were installed, keeping your front tires "on the ground and keeping you in control" .....

Granted, there's an extra "ton of steel" in a HD truck when compared to a half ton truck, but when you start altering weight/balance by adding trailer tongue weight, the weight distribution hitch will help you stay "in control" when adverse conditions come into play.

I'd recommend using the WD system, even if your 2.5" class V receiver is rated for not using it for the tongue weight of your trailer.

If you do some checking, you'll find the same sticker on a 2500 and a 3500 dually hitch receiver. That sticker is the "maximum for that part" not the rating for the "rest of the truck"...

[Tbos]

I'd use it and have fun towing with that new TV.

[slow]

When I installed air bags on my F250 to pull a 23' TT I thought weight distribution would no longer be an issue. However when I experimented at the scales, I found that the WD was still required to load the front wheels back to unhitched as John points out.

Therefore, I also suggest using the WD hitch with your new TV.

[the sodfather]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Jason,

The "heavy duty hitch" is rated higher than your previous hitch, but if you consider the "why" of weight distribution, the class of the hitch is only one consideration for "why" weight distribution is needed.

First, yes, the hitch is "rated" to tow more, both "static weight" and "Weight distributed weight". When used as a 2.5" receiver (without the adapter) your hitch is rated:
Weight distribution: 16,000/1600
Weight carrying: 8,000/800

With the adapter sleeve in place, the hitch is rated:
Weight distribution: 12,500/1250
Weight carrying: 6,000/600

The difference with the adapter sleeve is because the part that slides into the receiver is smaller (2") vs without the adapter sleeve (2.5"). The larger bar stock won't "twist and bend" as easily, so it's rated higher. It doesn't matter "to the hitch receiver" (the part mounted on the truck frame), it's the same. It's what goes into it that reduces the capacity.

Now, with that hitch on the truck, you're correct, the "RECEIVER" is rated to carry more weight than your trailer puts on it. But you also need to consider the "loading factors" that come into play when you add any weight "behind the rear axle" of your truck. You will change the loading on the front wheels (steering/braking) and change the performance characteristics of the truck. It likely won't be noticeable, or very little difference, except for the "headlights in the sky" condition, when towing at reduced speeds and on level pavement. Where you will notice a significant degradation in stability/braking is in adverse conditions. On ice/snow, muddy roads, gravel, "washboard" surfaces.

Essentially, without weight distribution, placing 500-700 pounds of trailer tongue weight "behind the rear axle" will "load the rear springs and unload the front springs". It will reduce the weight on the front tires, lessening their contact with the road surface and reduce the steering capacity. Should you "cross a railroad" and find that on the other side your front wheels are "off the ground momentarily" you'll know what "no steering" feels like.

Under "average" towing conditions, you probably won't notice any "steering wheel feel" difference with or without using your weight distribution bars, but when the "stuff hits the fan", you will probably be very thankful that the WD bars were installed, keeping your front tires "on the ground and keeping you in control" .....

Granted, there's an extra "ton of steel" in a HD truck when compared to a half ton truck, but when you start altering weight/balance by adding trailer tongue weight, the weight distribution hitch will help you stay "in control" when adverse conditions come into play.

I'd recommend using the WD system, even if your 2.5" class V receiver is rated for not using it for the tongue weight of your trailer.

If you do some checking, you'll find the same sticker on a 2500 and a 3500 dually hitch receiver. That sticker is the "maximum for that part" not the rating for the "rest of the truck"...

Great explanation. I've made the major adjustments to the hitch and plan to use it. I understand the sway part, but had not understood the 2.5"-2" reciever difference. It makes total sense now. Thanks for shedding light on this. I'm sure it will help others out who read this too.

[xrated]

I agree 100% with the above.......use the W.D. hitch setup and don't cause yourself unnecessary issues.