Keystone Hornet Toilet Water Pressure

[Remer Camper]

I have a 2013 keystone hornet 29 ft travel trailer. I'm having trouble with my toilet water hookup. I have a Sand point well which I'm pumping water into the trailer and I'm using an adjustable water pressure regulator going into the trailer. Even with my water pressure regulator set at 25 psi the water going to the toilet has too much pressure and the water is spurting out the nut that connects to the toilet. Obviously, I need to reduce the water pressure specifically going to the toilet. Any ideas on how I do this? Thank you!

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

If it’s leaking from the nut where the supply line hooks up, I would turn off the water. Then remove the nut, inspect it for any cracks and install a new “swivel seal”.

[Remer Camper]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Welcome to the forum

If it’s leaking from the nut where the supply line hooks up, I would turn off the water. Then remove the nut, inspect it for any cracks and install a new “swivel seal”.

Thank you very much. Yeah I have done that and replaced the seal and it still didn't do the trick. It looks to me like the water pressure is just too high as the toilet is about 2 or 3 ft away from where the water actually comes into the trailer. I think I need to somehow reduce the pressure specifically on the toilet line

[JRTJH]

What brand and model toilet do you have? Is it a Thetford or a Dometic and model number ??

[sourdough]

If you're pressure is set to 25psi, accurately, you're not over pressuring the toilet. You have a faulty toilet part, faulty pressure gauge or both.

[Remer Camper]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

What brand and model toilet do you have? Is it a Thetford or a Dometic and model number ??

Sorry, I am not sure.

[Remer Camper]

Originally Posted by sourdough

If you're pressure is set to 25psi, accurately, you're not over pressuring the toilet. You have a faulty toilet part, faulty pressure gauge or both.

Actually, I believe you are correct. Hopefully I will not have to replace the whole toilet just because the fitting is bad

[JRTJH]

If your toilet is a Thetford, in that era Thetford toilets, the water connection flange is NOTORIOUS for splitting and leaking. Since we're just now coming out of winter, if it is a Dometic look at the inlet valve body. If you see a "small round bulge" on the valve body, it is internally damaged from freezing and needs to be replaced. On either type, if the water connector on the trailer PEX line is damaged or is the threads on the valve inlet are damaged, you'll increase your probability of a leak.

Here's both valves and the Dometic "freeze damage indicator bulge".

[Remer Camper]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If your toilet is a Thetford, in that era Thetford toilets, the water connection flange is NOTORIOUS for splitting and leaking. Since we're just now coming out of winter, if it is a Dometic look at the inlet valve body. If you see a "small round bulge" on the valve body, it is internally damaged from freezing and needs to be replaced. On either type, if the water connector on the trailer PEX line is damaged or is the threads on the valve inlet are damaged, you'll increase your probability of a leak.

Here's both valves and the Dometic "freeze damage indicator bulge".

Thank you so much as this is very helpful. After the comments that I have received I am now certain that I have a leaky and most likely cracked valve or flange. Am I able to purchase and install a replacement valve or flange for either toilet? Of course I'm hoping I don't have to replace the whole toilet and I can simply replace the component. Again, really appreciate your assistance here.

[chuckster57]

There will be a tag at the base on the back side. You need the brand and model number. Most parts are readily available.

[Remer Camper]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

There will be a tag at the base on the back side. You need the brand and model number. Most parts are readily available.

Awesome ��

[JRTJH]

Almost anything on an RV toilet is replaceable. The issue arises only when the cost of parts is higher than a complete new toilet. Valves are available for both brands, usually for less than $20 for Dometic and around that for the Thetford. On Thetford toilets, there are 3 or 4 different styles of inlet water valves, so make sure you have the correct one identified before spending your money...

The PEX fitting on your trailer water line to the toilet has a cone washer in it. You can replace the cone as a separate part or you can replace the entire fitting. Unless your toilet has been damaged by freezing temps, I'd suspect you can fix the leak fairly cheap, but make sure you have identified the leak and order only the defective parts. Guessing or "throwing new parts at it" is a good way to waste a lot of money. Make sure you avoid that by doing good troubleshooting to determine EXACTLY what is leaking before buying parts.....

[sourdough]

Has this connectin worked fine in the past and just started leaking? Are you just now trying to dewinterize??? What is the situation.

In your first post you said the water was spurting out of the nut where the water line attaches to the toilet. In that case is the nut cracked/split? Did it freeze over winter? Pull it off and look at the little washer inside...is it crooked, bent, broke?

25psi is not too much for your toilet, I run mine at 45-50psi. If you are taking it apart I would recommend putting a connection on the end of the pex with a water cutoff then using a standard household type of toilet hose from the cutoff to the inlet on the toilet.

In the even it's a frozen/broken/cracked water valve here is a link to a video to repair a Thetford Aqua Magic ii. I doubt yours is the V. Maybe it will help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnfA9zYq6pQ

[notanlines]

Also, bear in mind that 25 psi will be a very unsatisfactory pressure for your toilet. Your pressure and flow will not be strong enough to rinse the sides properly. Usual pressure is 45 to 55 pounds. .