You might want to look at an electronic water descaler. They set up a strong magnetic field on the water pipe and "align the electrons" so they don't attract. Other option would be an RO system (reverse osmosis) but they use a lot of water.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
By definition an anode is part of a circuit. Like it or not, too much tape will insulate the anode from the metal tank. Not my opinion, fact.
By your statement can you explain how the tank level sensors work? The tank is plastic and therefore non conductive. Does the liquid in the tank not complete the circuit between the common and the level sensors. That sir, is also a fact.
Here's another fact, if you do not have thread sealant (either tape or paste) in between the two threaded surfaces of a NPT threaded connection you can have a leak and with 2 dissimilar metals you will have corrosion.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
By definition an anode is part of a circuit. Like it or not, too much tape will insulate the anode from the metal tank. Not my opinion, fact.
I'm not sure if you've ever "carefully inspected" the threads on an anode rod after removing it from the water heater fitting.... Even wrapped with multiple layers of teflon tape, the threads are "exposed and clearly visible"... It's a simple principle of sharp triangles in a corkscrew pattern "cutting" their way through the tape to make "metal to metal contact"....
You can't "isolate steel threads" by wrapping them in teflon tape, then twisting those threads into a "tapered hole with matching threads"... The steel "acts like a knife" and cuts the tape to achieve "metal to metal contact" with the female threads in the fitting....
Next time you take your anode out of the water heater, take a look at the "shredded teflon tape"....
Ok two different principles. Tank sensors work on the conductivity of the water. The next is that if you have no sealant you will have a leak because of the imperfections in the threads but with the correct amount of sealant you will seal those imperfections and still have metal to metal contact if torqued properly resulting in a complete circuit in the case of an anode. Two dissimilar metals will corrode when in contact because they are at different levels on the galvanic scale which is why it is never a good idea to mix magnetic and non magnetic metals in contact with each other.
Note that I said CORRECT amount of sealant. It was previously suggested that the amount of sealant did not matter and my previous statement still holds true that too much sealant can act as an insulator.
Note that I said CORRECT amount of sealant. It was previously suggested that the amount of sealant did not matter and my previous statement still holds true that too much sealant can act as an insulator.
From my experience, you CAN'T wrap too much teflon tape around the anode threads. If you can get it threaded, the threads will "cut through the teflon" and make metal to metal contact... Granted, if you wrap a "baseball size glob" of telfon around the threads, it will NEVER fit into the hole. My point is that whether you wrap 3 times around the threads or 15 times around the threads, it will be "just fine once installed".... You "can't put too much teflon tape on the threads" if you can still get it threaded in the fitting.
Maybe in 45 years of experience I have seen more people do things that "can't" be done than you have. Different career paths give us all different experiences.
too much sealing tape??? take a look at the photos I put up in the 1st post...the teflon tape is clearly cut from half the threads and ended up wrapped around the anode. you can also clearly see how the threads are worn from making metal to metal contact with the tank fitting (the coating on the threads is now gone and is bare metal silver, not black). so despite the tape, once screwed in and fitted, there is actual metal to metal contact between the threaded fittings. the proof is in the pudding
After 11 months of continuous full timing from new I decided to check the water heater anode in my Suburban for the first time ever. Was amazed at how bad it was (roughly 50%)...The rule of thumb is once a year but I think I will check/replace mine at 10 months. How's yours look?
That has lots of life left in it, at least 6 months.
Well, I had a big surprise firing up my hot water heater ! Some spider had a nest in the gas pipe burner leading into the tank.( I found this after taking it apart ) The spider blockage caused the gas to back up in a huge flame and started to melt the wires. Luckily I had the cover open and rushed back inside to shut the gas switch off. The thermo switch stopped working because of the heat must have damaged it. Lesson learned !!! Every first time use after winter test these propane appliances first before going out camping. I known from past expeiriences with the barbecue that spiders like the spell of propane. Should of thought of it for the RV too ! After I cleaned it out and fired it up with the direct wiring to test it out it worked beautifully. I then ordered a new thermal cutoff switch from Amazon. Just wanted the list members (especially the newbies ) to be aware. This could have been catastrophic if I did my routine and stayed inside the trailer once the switch was turned on.
Hi Roger, that rod looks like mine did last year and it's still going good. I wouldn't waste my time pulling it out and grinding it down. Just slap some "never cease" on the threads and put it back in and check it next year.
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