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Old 06-22-2020, 07:46 PM   #1
allenband08
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Over weight??? Truck upgrades???

I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.
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Old 06-22-2020, 07:54 PM   #2
wiredgeorge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenband08 View Post
I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.
That trailer will be 11-12K lbs fully loaded and give you a tongue weight of over 1500 lbs for sure. Your truck ain't up to it. As everyone is told, you have a sticker in the door frame of your truck with the payload and this is usually the short pole in the tent. Relying on either the Chevy or Keystone dealer for facts on what is safe to tow may not be wise. I am guessing with a 32' 5ver at over 11K lbs you are edging into 1 ton range.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:09 PM   #3
allenband08
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So will these upgrades to the truck and/or others compensate enough to be able to work?

This will be my first trailer and I just started looking to buy so I am new at all of this, so please forgive my ignorance on the subject matter.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:10 PM   #4
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So never use dry weights. Use max weights because it will get there. That is a 11,000 lbs camper with someplace between a 2200 and 2700lb pin weight. That is way north of most half tons. If you look in the drivers door there is a yellow and white sticker that says "the maximum weight of cargo and passenger shall not exceed XXXXlbs" I am guessing that number is not that high. Plus that is when the truck came off the line, a full tank of fuel, plus 150lbs for the driver. So anything you have added plus the weight of the hitch, gear, passengers, and any over 150lbs for you must come off that number before you hook up. Don't fall for the half ton towable gimmik. I used to have a 2010 Ram 2500 diesel and in all honesty that trailer is to big for that based on payload only.
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:15 PM   #5
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They really pushed that half ton tow. It's frustrating because I gave them the specs on the truck
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Old 06-22-2020, 08:49 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by allenband08 View Post
They really pushed that half ton tow. It's frustrating because I gave them the specs on the truck


The RV dealer could care less about your ability to tow that trailer or your safety. I would suspect that the trailer tongue weight would be FAR more than your trucks payload - and then there would be you (a driver) and all the necessary things you have to have. A 1/2 ton truck, and you have a light weight, that can only "max tow" (meaningless) 8800-9100 lbs. has NO, ZERO, business strapping an 11,000 lb. trailer behind it...none. Your numbers don't even start to add up.

Get the numbers off your the inside of your driver's door. You might tow a 7000lb bumper pull (at .13% for tongue weight) but you have NO way in this world to reasonably strap an 11,000lb 5th wheel on that truck with a pin weight of 2200+ lbs. Post the specifics on the truck. Since it is non negotiable those numbers are the end all, be all of what you can safely put behind it.
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Old 06-23-2020, 02:48 AM   #7
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George, RJ and Danny all gave you good advice. Your truck is FAR from being a capable TV for that 5th wheel. Avoid 5th wheels like the plague with a 1500/150. It ain't up to it. You can change gears, install truck tires, add a leaf spring, and air bags. All you've done is put lipstick on a pig. Cute, but still a pig. Find a nice 24' bumper pull with one slide and learn from there.
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Old 06-23-2020, 03:34 AM   #8
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Use the numbers that Danny has pointed out. The weight figures on that sticker are the federally certified limits. Adding anything or modifying anything doesn’t change those numbers.

As stated, the RV dealership could care less if your truck is actually rated to tow his trailer for sale, all he’s looking for is a sale.
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Old 06-23-2020, 04:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenband08 View Post
I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.
The ultimate limiter is the truck's GVWR. There is nothing you can do to change that.

Many opt to throw caution to the wind with add-ons. I'd NEVER recommend loading beyond certified vehicle GVWR.
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Old 06-23-2020, 04:55 AM   #10
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Here's the bottom line, you stated that "your looking at" the trailer which would imply you haven't pulled the trigger yet. You also state that "a new truck isn't doable". The logical conclusion is to look at trailers that are appropriately sized for the limiting factor which is the truck's payload.

It's beyond just a matter of what's practical. Towing overloaded by a large margin is dangerous for you, your family, and the family driving by you on the highway. If this is a "done deal" and your stuck with it, then my advice would be to get a seasonal site, pay to have it towed there and enjoy it. Then when you can get an appropriately sized truck start your travels.
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Old 06-23-2020, 05:02 AM   #11
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There's more involved than the truck carrying it. The frame, type of rear end, suspension and brakes. And it's like many said it's still a 1500. If you where involved in an accident the lawyers will find out everything, and have a field day. My 2500hd weights a lot more than a 1500, it can handle the weight but it's probably on the light side to carry the trailer you want.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:41 AM   #12
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Cavediver brings up an important point that is crucial. Legal liability. If in an accident, lawyers will easily figure this out and insurance companies will decline to pay.
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Old 06-28-2020, 08:58 AM   #13
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You all know the OP stopped stopped answering your questions and making comment 6 days ago.

You did not give him the answer he wanted!

He was one of those looking for justification for overloading his 1/2 ton PU!
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Old 06-28-2020, 10:08 AM   #14
allenband08
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Originally Posted by N6ZCM View Post
You all know the OP stopped stopped answering your questions and making comment 6 days ago.

You did not give him the answer he wanted!

He was one of those looking for justification for overloading his 1/2 ton PU!
Look at the keyboard worrier. I have read EVERY post and comment on here the same day it gets posted. Yes, it wasn't the answer I wanted but bit was the answer I needed.

I thank everyone who posted an honest answer and stated facts, rather than blowing smoke out of their blow hole to make themselves fell important.

If you read my original post I HAVE NOT BOUGHT THE TRAILER!!!

I did not need or want justification for anything since I have not spent any money.

So thank you, but your uneducated smart @$$ comments are not needed here.
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:51 AM   #15
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Look at the keyboard worrier. I have read EVERY post and comment on here the same day it gets posted. Yes, it wasn't the answer I wanted but bit was the answer I needed.

I thank everyone who posted an honest answer and stated facts, rather than blowing smoke out of their blow hole to make themselves fell important.

If you read my original post I HAVE NOT BOUGHT THE TRAILER!!!

I did not need or want justification for anything since I have not spent any money.

So thank you, but your uneducated smart @$$ comments are not needed here.

Cody, you said a new truck was not in the equation. The initial trailer you mentioned was just too much for a 1/2 ton. It's unfortunate that RV manufacturers dream up such terms as "1/2 ton towable" as a sales pitch knowing good and well that they can't.

A lot of mentions were made about that unit being too big and one of the primary reasons is that it is a 5th wheel. Being a 5ver means that it puts a LOT more weight onto the truck; think 20-25% of the gvw vs 10-15% for a bumper pull. That makes a HUGE difference when trying to fit a trailer to a specific truck and its capabilities so that might be a consideration.

BTW, I see you are from Allen TX. Little brother works at Collin College in Allen - small world.
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Old 06-28-2020, 10:43 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N6ZCM View Post
You all know the OP stopped stopped answering your questions and making comment 6 days ago.

You did not give him the answer he wanted!

He was one of those looking for justification for overloading his 1/2 ton PU!
It takes time to look at the numbers, to process the answers to a question. To ensure that the next step is well thought out.

The best posts are when someone heeds that advice and posts his NEW TV or TT and everything is matched nicely.
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Old 06-23-2020, 07:43 AM   #17
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Try this...

I hear yeah. Bottom line is suspension and braking. Use this link as a tool to help you along..
https://www.fifthwheelmagazine.com/new-tow-calc.aspx
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:51 AM   #18
meaz93*
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Brake upgrade (Powerstops for me); shocks (Bilsteins for me), Hellwig rear sway bar, E rated truck tires, air bags, etc...
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:13 AM   #19
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Meaz, how much do you suppose that raised the ‘cargo capacity’ figure? Are you able to tow more and heavier loads? Oh, sorry...
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:26 AM   #20
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You can't add to the cargo weight capacity of your truck, only subtract. That being said I am a firm believer in airbags, brakes, suspension upgrades.
You can make the truck handle the weight more stable or controlled, but you cannot increase payload unless possibly changing out the trucks spring pack and rear differential setup.
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