2016 Sprinter 319MKS Dometic Series 7 Fridge Issues

[Sigohigo2]

Here we go again. We lost our fridge at the beginning of a two week trip to NM in June, supposedly got it repaired after waiting 3 weeks at the dealership, only to have the thing go out again on day 1 of a 24 day 25th Anniversary trip.

They replaced the thermal fuse which got the fridge back on line but they did not identify why it went out in the first place. So, you got it, it is gone again. It worked for two days prior to load out. Worked all day during the drive until the last rest stop when we noticed all the flashing lights on the control panel, just like the first time it went out.

We've taken four trips in this RV since purchasing it in April and have had to take it to the dealer after every trip for warranty work.

This is a Dometic DMC/DMR 7 Series fridge. Anyone got any ideas as to why the thermal fuse goes out repeatedly? We are careful not to over pack it. Check to make sure it switches between auto and LP. I don't get it.

Help!!!!

[JRTJH]

There are two 5 amp fuses on the control board located behind the black plastic cover on the back of the refrigerator. You can access those fuses by removing the lower vent cover on the outside of your trailer. First, I'd check those fuses. One is for the 110 operation and one is for the gas operation.

Along with the fuses, the refrigerator temperature LED's (located on the control panel between the doors) will "flash a problem code" if the refrigerator malfunctions. This code is "reset" and will stop flashing once you turn power off and turn it back on, so the code will be "lost" if you start "pushing buttons". Once you check the fuses, turn the refrigerator back on, if it again stops working, be sure to "read the code". A list of the codes is located in your owner's manual on page 19. Please review the cautions and warnings located just above these "trouble codes" as there are some safety features built into the refrigerator (thermal fuse) which, once activated, should not be "over-ridden" with further operation of the refrigerator, until the unit is checked by a Dometic service person. Be careful about operation of the unit with a "bad thermal fuse" as you may overheat the unit and cause a fire safety problem.

Good Luck,

[gearhead]

I've been down this road, as have many others.
My solution was, after 3 trips, to quit taking it back to the dealer. I use a RV repair shop that is a Dometic authorized repair center. If your Dometic is under warranty, find a similar shop. The one I use, Channelview Supply, is a family owned and operated business. They have been in business for 30+ years. They only sell parts and repair RV's. If they don't fix them they will be out of business.
The dealers focus is on selling RV's.
Dometic also offers extended warranties on refrigerators and A/C's.

[Sigohigo2]

Smith RV in Casper WY had been dealing with this issue and knew how to fix it. They moved the fuse wiring as it had been installed too close to the burner. It will still work as the safety measure it is designed to do and continue to allow the unit to operate just by adding four inches of wire and repositioning its path to the fuse. Dometic and Keystone should put out service bulletins to all their dealerships so we the customer don't have to go through these gut wrenching experiences while we are traveling.

By the way, Keystone customer service has yet to respond to my query regarding repair assistance and it has now been over a week since I contacted them. Customer and service are oxy morons at Keystone as far as I am concerned.

[JRTJH]

It's a good that you completed your trip with no further gut wrenching events, but I'd question the "rerouting and added 4" of wire" that the good folks in Wyoming "helped you with".

Actually, there are two thermal safety devices in the assembly. The Thermofuse that is installed "in" the chimney and the Thermal Fuse which is actually a small "wire like device" that is attached to the red wire and located inside the shrink tubing (usually dark gray). That thermofuse is the device "that you see in the hole drilled in the metal chimney". The Thermo Fuse is embedded in the "red wire that's supposed to be laid in direct contact with the outside of the chimney"...

If the service department "added 4" of wire to the Thermo Fuse (red wire with dark gray shrink tubing) and pulled it away from the metal chimney, you may find that the refrigerator works, but the safety mechanism has been "defeated" and no longer protects your refrigerator from overheating.

Check your Owner's Manual, page 23. In the wiring diagram, you'll find Thermofuse (W) which is attached to the control board "pin J4" with a red (3) wire. The other side of it is a red wire that includes the Thermal Fuse (R) which is covered with shrink tubing and connects to the positive 12 Volt terminal. The physical position of the Thermal Fuse (R) is important in protecting the refrigerator and your trailer. Moving that device away from its "intended location" can "defeat the safety device" and cause overheating.

You might want to do some research to assure your refrigerator is still "safely protected against overheating".

I'm only guessing here, but if the service department did what I "think" they did, it's almost the same thing as putting a penny under a fuse so the fuse won't blow.

If you would, please let us know what you find.

ADDED: Don't confuse the circuit described above with the "Thermofuse (M) which is located in the red wire going to the cooling fans. Thermofuse (M) is, in reality, nothing more than an off/on switch to control the fan operation and has nothing to do with the "thermal protection" of your refrigerator.