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01-29-2014, 06:40 PM
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#21
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
I don't know why I didn't remember this earlier, but.... Pop the front cover off your thermostat, check the 2 amp fuse. That may well be why your A/C isn't working......
MAYBE !!!!!!!!!!!! <shot in the dark>
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Oooh, that sounds like something I will break when trying! Non the less, I will give it shot in the morning. Thank you
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01-30-2014, 07:57 AM
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#22
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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popped teh cover off, and did not see anything that screamed "I am a fuse", but I am not sure what anything in there is.
Oh, found my battery cutoff switch, it had been removed and placed int eh silverware drawer, not sure why yet.
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01-31-2014, 12:52 PM
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#23
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Electrician just left. Power is (and was) properly wired at the plug, and we checked the end of the plug wire, it also has the proper currents coming through. He checked the wiring into the a.c., and said there is no power coming into it, so somewhere there is an interruption. All the breakers and fuses seem fine, it is a stumper.
Thanks to all who tried to help, if I figure out what it is, I will post a follow up.
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02-05-2014, 05:30 PM
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#24
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Riddle me this Batman???
Ok, so I took what I thought was the main breaker panel off from where it is mounted under the fridge to see if I could find a place to mount a surge protector, and found another breaker box stashed behind it? Not sure what all of those breakers run, but one of them for sure runs the air conditioner, because it is all systems go now.
Is this a normal setup, or did someone do something aftermarket. Seems an awkward place to have a breaker panel. If nothing else, I am worried that the screws on the outer breaker box will strip out their osb holes if I have to access it very often. Maybe I won't, although will I need access to the surge protector on a regular basis? Maybe I can mount some sort of hinge to the outer box, that would allow it to swing open when I needed access to the space behind?
Thanks again to all who tried to help. Who knew there was a secret breaker box?
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02-05-2014, 07:36 PM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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It looks to me as if the previous owner upgraded to 50amp service. I'm surprised that your electrician did not not find that.
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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02-05-2014, 07:42 PM
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#26
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage
It looks to me as if the previous owner upgraded to 50amp service. I'm surprised that your electrician did not not find that.
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Upgraded? For some reason I assumed this rig came with that standard. That means they had to switch out the plug? so in theory I should have no trouble getting into it to install the power surge.
Oh, and it was hidden pretty well, I am not upset with the electrician, we assumed that it was all wired into the one panel.
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02-05-2014, 08:09 PM
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#27
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,983
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What size is the main breaker in the outer electrical distribution panel? I mean the one that's attached to the wall that you have to take off to see the "other one"...... My guess, like Hank's is that your RV came with a 30 amp system and someone decided to upgrade it, but rather than buy the 50 amp breaker box, they bought a "cheaper" box to wire the second incoming leg and ran a couple of new circuits for the front A/C, etc. It's not an "unsafe" system, just an "unorthodox" one..... At this point, I'm wondering just how expensive it would be to buy a new 50 amp distribution panel, new converter and simply wire the entire thing properly. Shouldn't be much over a couple hundred bucks.... That might be something to put on your "to do" list for a "rainy day improvement"
Oh I'm still very curious about what size the main breaker is in your original distribution panel. I'm betting it's a 30 amp breaker.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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02-05-2014, 08:16 PM
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#28
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
What size is the main breaker in the outer electrical distribution panel? I mean the one that's attached to the wall that you have to take off to see the "other one"...... My guess, like Hank's is that your RV came with a 30 amp system and someone decided to upgrade it, but rather than buy the 50 amp breaker box, they bought a "cheaper" box to wire the second incoming leg and ran a couple of new circuits for the front A/C, etc. It's not an "unsafe" system, just an "unorthodox" one..... At this point, I'm wondering just how expensive it would be to buy a new 50 amp distribution panel, new converter and simply wire the entire thing properly. Shouldn't be much over a couple hundred bucks.... That might be something to put on your "to do" list for a "rainy day improvement"
Oh I'm still very curious about what size the main breaker is in your original distribution panel. I'm betting it's a 30 amp breaker.....
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You sirs are very correct, it is a 30. So that means the 50 is an upgrade? I literally just started a post on how to hinge the outer panel for easy access, but maybe I should just replace the entire thing with a 50 amp service panel? Like you say, it gets me the new converter I was worried about the fan on.
Food for thought.
I cannot express how much I appreciate everyone's help, this has been a "jump in the cold lake" experience for me. So much to learn!
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02-05-2014, 08:19 PM
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#29
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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oh, if I decide to wire this for a generator, does all teh service need to be moved out to the generator then anyway? I have not even begun to research generators or installs, it seems so far down on the list of priorities, as we are going to be plugged in almost all of the time
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02-05-2014, 08:35 PM
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#30
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,983
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As for generator use, the simplest thing to do is to get a 3000 watt or two 2000 watt generators and a tether cable and just use your existing power cord to plug in. That way you're not installing genertors, transfer switches and fuel tanks to an existing RV. There's much more than just sticking a generator in a compartment and installing an off/on switch on the wall.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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02-05-2014, 08:45 PM
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#31
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Permanent User Ban
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Patagonia Arizona
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
As for generator use, the simplest thing to do is to get a 3000 watt or two 2000 watt generators and a tether cable and just use your existing power cord to plug in. That way you're not installing genertors, transfer switches and fuel tanks to an existing RV. There's much more than just sticking a generator in a compartment and installing an off/on switch on the wall.
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I love simple!
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04-09-2014, 07:10 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 24
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Brought home, my new to me 2002 30' Sprinter, started exploring the rig, the frig, microwave, water heater, water pump, all electrical works, EXCEPT the AC fan....I can hear the pump running but not feeling anything from the fan...checked breakers, fuse panel next to the door everything looks good....any ideas where to start looking?
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04-11-2014, 07:24 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 24
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Ok...this is a TT that's sat for about 8 years unoccupied...opened the lid on the roof...nearly fell off when the wasps came pouring out...found a big wasp nest jammed in the squirrel cage...pulled the next....Got Air Flowing!!!
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