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Old 05-30-2020, 03:39 PM   #1
Bill-2020
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Dometic 13.5 Wire Burned off Common Post of Compressor

Turned on the A/C this afternoon to do some cleaning in the camper and the A/C never got cold... Worked just fine over Memorial weekend (new 2020 unit) I reset the breaker thinking maybe the control board needed a reboot or maybe a stuck relay. Nothing worked so I watched a video on YT and saw a guy who showed a heated/partially burned connection on top of the compressor at the Common terminal. I pulled the covers, pulled the plastic cap and guess what I found... totally burned off connection Well, back to the dealer or other certified shop it'll go for a new unit. This isn't something that can be fixed with a new wire terminal, these were bonded at the factory for what was supposed to be a better electrical connection. (??) Question I have is this; has anyone been successful in paying the difference on a better a/c unit when one under warranty is deemed bad and will be replaced. If so, what is a better unit than a Dometic Thermo Brisk II 13,500 BTU? Preferably a quieter one too (non-ducted). (sorry for the rotated images... it's an apple thing I guess)
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Old 05-30-2020, 04:12 PM   #2
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Just some thoughts:

I like Dometic ACs. Only had one Coleman many years ago. When I replace I go with Dometic. Sort of like going from Thetford toilets to Dometic. JMO

Your ability to upgrade and the cost will largely be determined by your dealer, your familiarity with them/their familiarity with you etc. They will determine that cost and it depends on the $$ allocated by Keystone and Dometic for a replacement and your willingness to pay the difference ie; how bad you want that upgrade.

Noise from an unducted unit? Never had one, been in one or seen one that wasn't noisy so brand isn't going to make any difference on that; it's the nature of the beast.
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Old 05-30-2020, 04:31 PM   #3
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Thanks, Dan. I appreciate your input. I know asking for a quieter A/C is stretch, I was hoping someone has had a Brisk unit and changed to something else that was a little quieter. We'll see what the local service center says (I'm staying away from the big guys like CW for this).
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Old 05-30-2020, 04:32 PM   #4
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High airflow exiting a short distance from the fan is going to loud. Think leaf blower or air hand dryer or your wifes hair dryer.
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Old 05-30-2020, 08:59 PM   #5
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Hey Bill, Is there a chance during your Memorial day trip that a low voltage event happened at the RV park ? low voltage under load = high amperage draw overloading connection. 1 more reason for EMS. It will shut off power if low or high voltage. maybe the reason??-----Lou-----
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:54 AM   #6
Bill-2020
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Originally Posted by trucker LOU View Post
Hey Bill, Is there a chance during your Memorial day trip that a low voltage event happened at the RV park ? low voltage under load = high amperage draw overloading connection. 1 more reason for EMS. It will shut off power if low or high voltage. maybe the reason??-----Lou-----
Lou, I use an EMS and yes a storm passed through the first night but no low voltage occurred. A/C ran fine the rest of the three days we were there.
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Old 05-31-2020, 04:29 AM   #7
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Lou, I use an EMS and yes a storm passed through the first night but no low voltage occurred. A/C ran fine the rest of the three days we were there.
Lou- I would also be concerned about potential damage to the compressor inside given that amount of resistance at that bond on the common post that cooked that connection. Would you agree?
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:23 AM   #8
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Maybe another option

It’s hard to tell from the picture provided, but it appears they the compressor’s flat spade terminal with an attached pin is still intact. The female spade connector of the common wire, looks to be what has failed. As an ac contractor, we fixed this condition with a specially made repair kit that attaches with a set screw. If the damaged male spade on the compressor is gently filed to remove any surface pitting, the repair kit will permanently fix the issue. The repair kit works on 5 ton compressors, I see no reason it wouldn’t work on a smaller 1.5 ton unit. Search for: “compressor repair kit” on Amazon to see what it looks like.
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Old 05-31-2020, 05:16 PM   #9
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It’s hard to tell from the picture provided, but it appears they the compressor’s flat spade terminal with an attached pin is still intact. The female spade connector of the common wire, looks to be what has failed. As an ac contractor, we fixed this condition with a specially made repair kit that attaches with a set screw. If the damaged male spade on the compressor is gently filed to remove any surface pitting, the repair kit will permanently fix the issue. The repair kit works on 5 ton compressors, I see no reason it wouldn’t work on a smaller 1.5 ton unit. Search for: “compressor repair kit” on Amazon to see what it looks like.
That's great info. Thank you! Yes, most of the male spade is still there. Any concerns on internal damage due to heated and failed connection on the exterior? My mind wonders about damaged windings, brushes, etc. Here's a magnified version of the same picture. I'll search that kit in the meantime.
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Old 05-31-2020, 05:35 PM   #10
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The failure shown is not due to internal workings of the compressor, rather it was from poor clamping pressure of the connection. I’d start by cleaning up the damaged male spade/pin on the compressor. If the pitting and burnt remains of the wire’s female end, can be removed, the repair kit would be worth trying to fix it. Also, a light coating of Noalox anti oxidation paste on the compressor’s damaged spade connector prior to application of the repair kit will compliment the repair. Noalox can be found near the section where wirenuts are stocked at Home Depot. Leftover Noalox is useful among other things, to lightly coat the base of 120 volt light bulbs, so they can easily be removed when burnt out.
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Old 05-31-2020, 05:50 PM   #11
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Understood. Thanks for your insight and additional details. I wasn't thinking that the internals of the compressor caused this, I was concerned about damage caused internally by the bad connection.

I'll be talking with a RV repair shop authorized by Keystone tomorrow morning. If they feel it's a warranty repair (which it should be), I'll let them replace the entire unit. If this is deemed as not under warranty, then I'll get the repair kit and handle it myself.
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Old 06-01-2020, 03:59 PM   #12
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I called a local authorized Dometic service center (RV repair shop) and explained the issue over the phone in detail. He’s pretty confident it’s not a bad connection but rather poor voltage resulting in over amperage draw thus the burning off the connection. What gets me is why didn’t the amperage protector or whatever it’s called (the in-line round component connected to the burnt terminal) trip and cut power to the compressor first? He said Dometic was or may still be shut down from Covid because he’s still waiting on other parts for other customers. We agreed I’d keep in touch until such time as Dometic can supply him with a new unit ~if~ this one falls under warranty. Either way, he’s also confident it’s now a bad ac unit and will have to be replaced. And we had plans for the 4th...
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Old 06-01-2020, 07:31 PM   #13
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The service guy is wrong. That connector is the exact type that supplies voltage/amperage to 5 ton compressors protected by a 50 amp 2 pole breaker. The 20 amp breaker supplying power to your rooftop AC, would trip long before that terminal could fail. The other wire that supplies voltage didn’t show any sign of failing. As you pointed out, you have an over current device which also provides protection. I can say unequivocally, that in 40 years of holding contractor’s licenses for commercial/residential heating/air conditioning and electrical, I’ve never seen a compressor terminal fail for any reason other than a poor connection which causes arcing and subsequently failure. Be that as it may, if you get the unit replaced without money out of pocket, it’s irrelevant what he thinks the cause is. Hopefully this gets resolved soon for you. Hang in there!
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:16 AM   #14
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If the original poster has a capacitive touch thermostat can he switch to a different brand ac?
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Old 06-04-2020, 10:46 AM   #15
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I'd have to agree with FS12... I've seen spade connectors burn like this even on 12 volt auto circuits... if they are loose, they will heat up and burn/melt...perfect example is headlight connectors.... AC connectors at the compressor and even blower motor connectors... loose isn't good with a spade type connection...since it was the female spade that burned, I agree that it was probably loose on the male terminal...

I of course am not an expert but I think Firestation12 is on the money on this one... I'd get that repair kit and try that fix before I'd pony up for a new AC unit if the factory is balking on repairs.. again, JMHO
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Old 06-04-2020, 01:40 PM   #16
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Super 6.2 - I have the analog version of touch, the knobs on the ceiling unit. Maybe one day I'll get myself into rig with a thermostat (for the a/c and furnace), right now it's only the furnace. There is a different brand that is compatible with my Dometic ceiling unit, Advent. Service center owner (37 year business) said they are more reliable than the Dometic I have. Once this hopefully warrantied unit is out of warranty and fails, I'll consider that brand. But we'll see what's out there when that day arrives.

Sarge - I don't disagree with you guys, that female terminal could have been loose just enough and with all the vibration that unit has from the out-of-balance fan and squirrel cage, it only makes potential matters worse. The service center owner (private company, BTW. CW isn't getting their fingers on my TT) said he's very certain that failure was due to other circumstances, but there's no evidence of anything. He asked about an EMS and I brought him mine. He seemed satisfied. He'll run his required tests on the a/c and send in the results to Dometic. Once they approve it, and can ship a repalcement, he'll let me know the ETA of the new a/c. It's thought that a warrantied unit is most likely in my court, it's just not a failure he usually sees.

Station 12 - I'd love to go up there, clean the terminals and test it myself to make sure the rotor isn't locked up or any other problems. Fact of the matter is I can't. They saw the failure in my phone and they expect to see it that way when I take the trailer to them. I'll never know unless they bench test it themselves. (I like your username, BTW. Spent 10 years in the department myself. Some of the best years of my life)
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Old 06-07-2020, 08:32 AM   #17
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Loose ground connection will build up heat through resistance. Most likely a ground wire poorly terminated on the spade clip cause the build up and burn out. If wire is only burned near the clip and other end doesn’t appear to have been hot... cut the wire back, strip it and attach to the appropriate rated clip and reattach.
This will not hurt anything. If the compressor had been damaged from excess strain there is nothing that can be done.
I have seen this on many AC units in central air units. It is usually always a loose or burned ground wire.
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Old 06-10-2020, 06:09 AM   #18
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They make a bolt on terminal kit too repair. It uses a bolt and fitting to reattach the wire to the terminal. Easy fix if out of warranty. Should be available from local air conditioning supply store.
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Old 06-10-2020, 07:50 PM   #19
Bill-2020
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They make a bolt on terminal kit too repair. It uses a bolt and fitting to reattach the wire to the terminal. Easy fix if out of warranty. Should be available from local air conditioning supply store.
Being replaced under warranty. There's a lot of ideas as to what really happened. This is one that will fall under "we'll never really know". Regardless, after it's replaced, I'll be back up on the roof to make sure connections are correct.
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