boondocking hot water tank purge?

seanrmz · 12-25-2022, 06:09 AM

Hello and Merry Christmas everyone!!!

OK I have 100% knowledge on how to purge the hot water tank when hooked to shore. Pulling the hi temp release valve letting the air out until we get water. I get this 100%

On my way up to Florida from Montreal, I boon docked 2 nights and brought some fresh water with me for wash room and showers. I turned the pump on and opened the sink faucets but I tried to pull the hi temp check valve on the tank but nothing, I herd a bit of air but no water. I asked my wife to open the hot water valve in the kitchen to try to get the water pass through the tank but nothing. Maybe I was not waiting long enough.

I didnt know the proper procedure and I didnt want to damage the hot water tank since we are going for 2 months in FL, not the time to experiment.

thanks
sean

**JRTJH** · 12-25-2022, 06:52 AM

It sounds like your water system is frozen. So, the first question in helping is:

Where are you located right now? If you're in Montreal (or somewhere close to there) your water system, if you filled it, even with heat on the trailer, may have frozen. If you're further south, even after the water system thaws, you may have damaged the water pump or one of the valves behind the water heater.

So, do you have any water, hot or cold, at any faucet?

seanrmz · 12-25-2022, 06:57 AM

thanks Jr, the rv was fully winterized and I added water to the fresh water tank once I was in Savana, with warm temps.
I am in Florida now since a week and everything is fine. We are hooked up to shore water now, I just wanted to know the right procedure to fill the hot water tank first before turning on the burner when boondocking

**JRTJH** · 12-25-2022, 07:26 AM

Ahhh... Not sure what year Cougar you have, so this may not be the procedure for your trailer. If you DO NOT have a convenience center, this is the process:

Make sure the anode rod is installed and the electric element is turned OFF.

Then on the back of the water heater you will find a 1/4 turn valve at the bottom of the water heater, that connects to the cold water intake. Turn that valve 1/4 turn and turn on the water pump or the city water. You should hear water running into the water heater. If not, turn the valve the other direction. One way bypasses the water heater, the other way directs water into the water heater and I'm not sure which way your valve started out.

Now, with water flowing into the water heater, go inside and open a hot faucet at any sink. You'll hear air, maybe some "sputtering water". Let that faucet run until all the air is purged. When using the onboard water pump, it may take as long as 2 or 3 minutes to fill the water heater tank, so be patient as the faucet sputters for what seems like "eternity". Once the faucet stops sputtering, close that faucet, move to the next and repeat. Do this at every faucet, bathroom vanity, shower, galley sink and the outside shower. Once all the air is purged, turn on the electric element and let the system sit for about 10 minutes. You should have "warmer than the cold faucet" water at a faucet (if the electric element is working properly). If you do NOT have warmer water after that 10 minutes, then check that the electric switch on the water heater AND the electric switch on the wall panel (if you have one) AND the power center circuit breaker are all turned ON. If not, turn them all on and wait another 10 minutes or so. Check again.

If you do have warm water (it won't be hot in that short a time, just starting to get warm) then turn on the propane burner and make sure it's working...

THERE IS NO NEED TO PURGE USING THE RELIEF VALVE !!!!! Doing so will remove the "necessary air gap" in the water heater tank. If you purge air out of the water heater using the relief valve, you risk excess pressure inside the tank and can damage the water heater. That air gap is required to prevent excess water pressure inside the tank as the water expands during the heating process. The water heater manual has a detailed procedure to re-establish the air gap as it is required, so don't "purge all the air using the valve", just opening faucets until they stop sputtering air is all you need to do.

If you have a convenience center, the water heater bypass valve may be located there, not behind the water heater.

If you have the "In-Command system" then your switches for electric and gas operation will be on the wall panel screen, not on the status indicator panel with tank level LED lights as in older Cougar models.

Hope that this "gets you in some hot water" !!!!

Merry Christmas.

dutchmensport · 12-25-2022, 10:48 AM

To fill the water heater, all you do is make sure your drain plug or anode rod is inserted and tight. You do not need to open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. Leave it closed. Simply open any faucet in the camper. Now, either turn on your water pump, or turn on the shore water spigot and when the trailer faucet quits spitting air and water starts flow, your water heater is now filled. NOW turn the heat on the water heater because the water heater is now full. Also, go around each faucet and purge the remaining air out of the lines.

I never turn the heat on the water heater until all the lines are purged from air. I never use the pressure relief valve to fill the tank. The relief valve sits lower on the tank than the out-going (hot) water. So, if you fill by pulling the relief valve, there is still a considerable amount of air in the top of the tank. Until all that air gets purged out, you won't have water at the faucets. Keep purging. Water will eventually start flowing.

One more thing? Did you remember to un-bypass the water heater before attempting to fill it? If it's still in by-pass mode, you won't have water in the tank. And empty tank will burn up the electric heating element within seconds (like 2 or 3 seconds).

seanrmz · 12-26-2022, 04:58 AM

thanks again Jr, ok I understand now. The Cougar is a 2021 Rls 30.

I will definitely follow this procedure

thanks sean

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Ahhh... Not sure what year Cougar you have, so this may not be the procedure for your trailer. If you DO NOT have a convenience center, this is the process:

Make sure the anode rod is installed and the electric element is turned OFF.

Then on the back of the water heater you will find a 1/4 turn valve at the bottom of the water heater, that connects to the cold water intake. Turn that valve 1/4 turn and turn on the water pump or the city water. You should hear water running into the water heater. If not, turn the valve the other direction. One way bypasses the water heater, the other way directs water into the water heater and I'm not sure which way your valve started out.

Now, with water flowing into the water heater, go inside and open a hot faucet at any sink. You'll hear air, maybe some "sputtering water". Let that faucet run until all the air is purged. When using the onboard water pump, it may take as long as 2 or 3 minutes to fill the water heater tank, so be patient as the faucet sputters for what seems like "eternity". Once the faucet stops sputtering, close that faucet, move to the next and repeat. Do this at every faucet, bathroom vanity, shower, galley sink and the outside shower. Once all the air is purged, turn on the electric element and let the system sit for about 10 minutes. You should have "warmer than the cold faucet" water at a faucet (if the electric element is working properly). If you do NOT have warmer water after that 10 minutes, then check that the electric switch on the water heater AND the electric switch on the wall panel (if you have one) AND the power center circuit breaker are all turned ON. If not, turn them all on and wait another 10 minutes or so. Check again.

If you do have warm water (it won't be hot in that short a time, just starting to get warm) then turn on the propane burner and make sure it's working...

THERE IS NO NEED TO PURGE USING THE RELIEF VALVE !!!!! Doing so will remove the "necessary air gap" in the water heater tank. If you purge air out of the water heater using the relief valve, you risk excess pressure inside the tank and can damage the water heater. That air gap is required to prevent excess water pressure inside the tank as the water expands during the heating process. The water heater manual has a detailed procedure to re-establish the air gap as it is required, so don't "purge all the air using the valve", just opening faucets until they stop sputtering air is all you need to do.

If you have a convenience center, the water heater bypass valve may be located there, not behind the water heater.

If you have the "In-Command system" then your switches for electric and gas operation will be on the wall panel screen, not on the status indicator panel with tank level LED lights as in older Cougar models.

Hope that this "gets you in some hot water" !!!!

Merry Christmas.

seanrmz · 12-26-2022, 05:09 AM

thanks mr Dutchmen, yes I did turn the bypass 1/4 valve on. I guess I was not patient enough. I didnt know how to get her going so.. that is why I didnt turn on the element or gas burner. I wanted the right way to fill the tank with any damage.

ok so I ask my wife to open the hot water facets ( with pump on) until we get water only and no air sputters.

I will also never use the pressure valve to fill the tank.

thanks again

sean

Quote:

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

To fill the water heater, all you do is make sure your drain plug or anode rod is inserted and tight. You do not need to open the pressure relief valve on the water heater. Leave it closed. Simply open any faucet in the camper. Now, either turn on your water pump, or turn on the shore water spigot and when the trailer faucet quits spitting air and water starts flow, your water heater is now filled. NOW turn the heat on the water heater because the water heater is now full. Also, go around each faucet and purge the remaining air out of the lines.

I never turn the heat on the water heater until all the lines are purged from air. I never use the pressure relief valve to fill the tank. The relief valve sits lower on the tank than the out-going (hot) water. So, if you fill by pulling the relief valve, there is still a considerable amount of air in the top of the tank. Until all that air gets purged out, you won't have water at the faucets. Keep purging. Water will eventually start flowing.

One more thing? Did you remember to un-bypass the water heater before attempting to fill it? If it's still in by-pass mode, you won't have water in the tank. And empty tank will burn up the electric heating element within seconds (like 2 or 3 seconds).

WDPatterson · 01-01-2023, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seanrmz

thanks Jr, the rv was fully winterized and I added water to the fresh water tank once I was in Savana, with warm temps.
I am in Florida now since a week and everything is fine. We are hooked up to shore water now, I just wanted to know the right procedure to fill the hot water tank first before turning on the burner when boondocking

If you're on Shore water, all you have to do is open a faucet. I don't recommend using the pressure relief valve on the water heater. That should be left alone. In the off chance that you actually have hot water in there, you may regret being near that.

firestation12 · 01-03-2023, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WDPatterson

If you're on Shore water, all you have to do is open a faucet. I don't recommend using the pressure relief valve on the water heater. That should be left alone. In the off chance that you actually have hot water in there, you may regret being near that.

This is good advice. Opening the the pressure relief unnecessarily will invite a failure to reseal resulting in water dripping from the relief valve. A to quote my dad, “if it ain’t broke, mess with it till it is”.

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