Water heater stopped working

[Stephens]

Hello,well came hm today and turned on my switch for the propane water heater and it ran fine for about 10-15 mins then it shut off so I thought maybe I ran out of fuel nope that wasn't it so here I sit needing a hot shower and no hot water and of course on my electric element it hasn't worked since I got this trailer it's a 2005 outback Sydney I had to put off fixing the electric side of the water heater now the gas side stopped any help would be appreciated.

[jsb5717]

If you turn off the switch and turn it back on what does it do? Does it attempt to ignite or do nothing? Have you checked the 12v fuse? Our 2018 needed a new main board a couple years ago...got it under warranty.

[Stephens]

It doesn't do anything I turned on switch ran around to heater outside and There wasn't anything no fuel smell no ignition spark cked fuse all good.

[Stephens]

Not sure if you got my response.

[Stephens]

Also cked for any obstruction in tube found none it just stopped almost like it's not getting fuel but with the switch on should I not see it trying to start with a spark off the electric starter.

[jsb5717]

Yes, at the very least it should try to ignite. Have you checked the fuse?

[Stephens]

Yes cked fuse on the board that 2amp fuse was good.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Stephens

Yes cked fuse on the board that 2amp fuse was good.

You said it ran OK for 10 or 15 minutes, then just quit... If you have a Suburban water heater, near the top left of the water heater, as you're looking at it, are two "black rubber inserts". Under those inserts are the AC and GAS temperature limit sensors and "reset switches". If the water heater overheated, or is the gas temperature limit switch "sensed an overheat condition" it may have tripped the safety device.

Push in on both those black rubber circles, if that's what happened, pushing them will reset the system and the water heater should "fire up again".... Who knows, if you've never done this, you just might "fix the electric side too"... Let us know what you find. Good Luck

[Stephens]

Well this is a Atwood 6 gallon

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Stephens

Well this is a Atwood 6 gallon

Try this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk77MdbApFw&t=94s

[Stephens]

Thank you I will take a look at this after wk.

[Kcinatl]

I have an Atwood 6 also. First my electric went out one weekend, then the gas did not work on my next campout. I did the standard troubleshooting - fuses, fuels, voltage check. Turned out the control board was bad. Replaced it, and both types of heat were restored. Easy DIY replacement.

[Stephens]

You are correct replaced board on panel and all is well

[Bamabox]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

You said it ran OK for 10 or 15 minutes, then just quit... If you have a Suburban water heater, near the top left of the water heater, as you're looking at it, are two "black rubber inserts". Under those inserts are the AC and GAS temperature limit sensors and "reset switches". If the water heater overheated, or is the gas temperature limit switch "sensed an overheat condition" it may have tripped the safety device.

Push in on both those black rubber circles, if that's what happened, pushing them will reset the system and the water heater should "fire up again".... Who knows, if you've never done this, you just might "fix the electric side too"... Let us know what you find. Good Luck

Well, that’s good info. Store that in my memory banks, such as they are. Maybe should write it down. They only time my Suburban wouldn’t fire, took it back to the dealer and it was the circuit board, which they replaced under warranty.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Bamabox

Well, that’s good info. Store that in my memory banks, such as they are. Maybe should write it down. They only time my Suburban wouldn’t fire, took it back to the dealer and it was the circuit board, which they replaced under warranty.

Or they just pushed the reset button and told you that "they replaced the circuit board" and sent a warranty claim to the manufacturer.....

Sort of like the old fable about the refrigerator repairman who walked into the kitchen, looked over the refrigerator for a couple minutes, used his heel and "back-kicked" the side of the refrigerator and charged the customer $200. When questioned about the charges, he broke them down this way:

$25 for the travel costs
$25 for refrigerator assessment
$150 for knowing where to kick the refrigerator
$0 for the repair

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Bamabox

Well, that’s good info. Store that in my memory banks, such as they are. Maybe should write it down. They only time my Suburban wouldn’t fire, took it back to the dealer and it was the circuit board, which they replaced under warranty.

Also store to check behind that black cover with the resets, my last 5er that cover had pinched the wires to both of those thermostats shorting/burning the wires on both. Had to add new wire ends & both thermostats, trimmed the cover about a 1/4" & bent the metal lip over a bit to prevent the same in the future.