Safety chain enhancement?

[audio1der]

While camping with my inlaws, my FIL nearly fell over when he saw the dinky little loop which holds the safety chains to the front on the frame, below the ball. He asked if I thought that would hold if the trailer was being pulled violently by the chains, which I had wondered about.

Has anyone changed the mounting point of their safety chains on the trailer frame, perhaps using grade 8 hardware to secure the chains to the frame in a more "secure manner"?
I have attached a photo looking straight down on how his chains are secured to his frame for reference. I am thinking of doing something similar.

[rhagfo]

yes, get the hardware big enough to handle the forces. My question is why attached so close to each other on the trailer. The most suggested connection method for TT is to cross the chains under the tongue to catch and cradle the tongue.

[Tbos]

I did on my old TT but have not on my new one yet. It's on the list. When I did it, it looked just like your FILs.

[Laredo291OH]

The safety chains on my TT have a bar, maybe 3/8" diameter that goes thru them and is welded to the hitch. The chains are literally side by side, there is no way that little 3/8" diameter bar would ever hold my Laredo when loaded out at the max 8200 lbs, or more , but that is the Keystone built it. I welded some safety chains onto an old race car trailer years and the old guy pulling it said "don't weld them too good, I don't want that trailer flopping around behind me if it comes loose, I want it going away", not saying that is the right attitude, but it does make some sense to me. Seems like with the break-away brakes anymore it would almost be better for the trailer to leave the tow vehicle.

[Ken / Claudia]

If your driving the vehicle that has a trailer detach it would be better for you to have it get away from you and not crash into you or cause you other damage. To all others on the road at that time not so good. I have not investigated any that killed other motorists. I have seen spare that broke off, bounced on the highway at 55 or 60 mph and onto a hood and into a oncoming car. Some kids grew up without your dad. That's why laws say the safety chain(s) or cable must be enough to keep trailer attached to tow vehicle. So your trailer does not leave your control and ruin others lives.

[Mike484]

Exactly, I had other people tell me the same thing, "let it break away so it doesn't pull you around or damage your truck". But, the way I look at it, its your trailer so if it comes unhitched, its your problem, not the other vehicles problem, deal with it, don't put others into danger because your the one that created the problem.

[mfifield01]

I'm interested in moving my around. My Equalizer hitch can hit the current mount points for the safety chain on the trailer. This usually only happens at extreme angles.

[Tbos]

Originally Posted by mfifield01

I'm interested in moving my around. My Equalizer hitch can hit the current mount points for the safety chain on the trailer. This usually only happens at extreme angles.

Mine hits too. On my old TT I had to get longer chains. I need to measure before I change it again.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Ken / Claudia

If your driving the vehicle that has a trailer detach it would be better for you to have it get away from you and not crash into you or cause you other damage. To all others on the road at that time not so good. I have not investigated any that killed other motorists. I have seen spare that broke off, bounced on the highway at 55 or 60 mph and onto a hood and into a oncoming car. Some kids grew up without your dad. That's why laws say the safety chain(s) or cable must be enough to keep trailer attached to tow vehicle. So your trailer does not leave your control and ruin others lives.

Originally Posted by Mike484

Exactly, I had other people tell me the same thing, "let it break away so it doesn't pull you around or damage your truck". But, the way I look at it, its your trailer so if it comes unhitched, its your problem, not the other vehicles problem, deal with it, don't put others into danger because your the one that created the problem.

There are several news accounts of loose trailers, running into other vehicles and causing injury and death. Would not want to be on the receiving end of that lawsuit.

[bsmith0404]

In most cases, the chains are only required to be able to keep the trailer attached to the TV. That is determined by taking the tensile strength of the chains and comparing it to the GVWR of the trailer. Since the trailers have 2 chains, they can add the figure of each together to equal GVWR. Additionally, the break away cable should be activated. Is it a perfect system that will prevent a runaway trailer, no. In most cases I think the chains will hold better than people think.

BTW, you want to make sure your break away cable is shorter than your safety chains. You do not want an unhitched trailer being yanked around behind your TV by the safety chains. You want the break away to engage slowing the trailer down and keeping the chains tight between the trailer and TV.

[chuckster57]

Funny you should mention the break away switch. I have lost track of how many have 6' cables from the factory, and there's no way it's going to pull the insert if the trailer comes off.

Replacements seem to be only 4' or 6'. I twist them to keep them from dragging on the ground, but I still think they won't activate.

[JRTJH]

I believe the only "reasonable" way to know that your trailer is safe is to first inspect the safety chains, if they are inadequate, then replace them with chains you feel are appropriately strong to keep your trailer behind your tow vehicle. Then, and this is probably just as important as having strong safety chains, is to park your tow vehicle in position with the tongue receiver over the ball and attach the safety chains to the tow vehicle and attach the breakaway cable in position where you intend to use it during towing, then slowly drive forward until the chains are at maximum extension. Get out of your vehicle, inspect the safety breakaway cable. If it hasn't pulled the pin from the breakaway device, then the cable is too long and should the "unthinkable happen", you're going to be in "deep dung".....

If it hasn't pulled the pin, then either tie it in knots or better yet, cut the breakaway cable to the appropriate length, use a 15 cent "ferrule" (available at any hardware store) and "rebuild the cable" to the appropriate length.

Like Chuckster57 stated, when trailers come from the factory, they have the "parts available" but they have not been "customized" to the tow vehicle/trailer application. Depending on the type of hitch, location of the attachment where the cable is secured on the tow vehicle and the location of the breakaway device on the trailer, the cable may be anywhere from 24" to 72" or who knows what length. Each application is unique and a 4' or 6' cable is only a starting point, not the "intended length" for most trailers.

You want the breakaway cable short enough to pull the pin before the chains reach maximum extension but long enough not to pull the pin when backing or turning the trailer with the tow vehicle/trailer angle at its maximum.

[audio1der]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If it hasn't pulled the pin, then either tie it in knots or better yet, cut the breakaway cable to the appropriate length, use a 15 cent "ferrule" (available at any hardware store) and "rebuild the cable" to the appropriate length.

Like Chuckster57 stated, when trailers come from the factory, they have the "parts available" but they have not been "customized" to the tow vehicle/trailer application. Depending on the type of hitch, location of the attachment where the cable is secured on the tow vehicle and the location of the breakaway device on the trailer, the cable may be anywhere from 24" to 72" or who knows what length. Each application is unique and a 4' or 6' cable is only a starting point, not the "intended length" for most trailers.

You want the breakaway cable short enough to pull the pin before the chains reach maximum extension but long enough not to pull the pin when backing or turning the trailer with the tow vehicle/trailer angle at its maximum.

Replacing the entire breakaway cable & ancillaries cost me a whopping $2.45 last week; well worth it I'd say. I feel much better pulling now.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by audio1der

Replacing the entire breakaway cable & ancillaries cost me a whopping $2.45 last week; well worth it I'd say. I feel much better pulling now.

It mystifies me why people (especially dealerships) completely ignore the breakaway system. It seems to me most dealerships never mention the system to a new owner (except to possibly point it out during hitching), and owners very often have never given the "vital safety system" a second thought. They can't tell you what it does or the theory behind why it works and why it's important that it be adjusted properly.

We all tend to focus on "weight distribution, anti-sway adjustment and completely ignore the break-away system.

Trust me when I say that if you've ever had a trailer uncouple, a pin break on the receiver, or some other malfunction that leaves you relying on the safety chains, you absolutely want the trailer brakes to function to keep the trailer from repeatedly slamming into your tow vehicle, pushing and pulling you all over "your side" of a multilane highway.

As you indicated, it's a very inexpensive system, but the cost of the components is surely no measure of how important it is to keeping your family and everyone else on the highway safe !!!

[bsmith0404]

We should also point out that the break away cable should not be attached to the same component (hitch) as the safety chains. The cable should be attached to the TV frame. The intention is so that the brakes will be activated if the hitch ever falls/breaks off of the TV, it happens. If the safety chains and break away cable are all attached to the hitch, and the bolts shear, nothing will stop the trailer. I use a large spring snap link on the frame of the truck and adjust the length of the cable for that position.

[chuckster57]

When we do an axle service, the first thing we do with the trailer off the tires is pull the pin. Tells us two things: brakes are working and the break away is functioning.

[bsmith0404]

Everyone should make a regular check of their breakaway. The proper way to check it is to disconnect the electrical plug from the TV and pull the pin. The RV batteries should engage the brakes, a quick tug test will tell you if they are working or not. BTW, pulling the pin with the trailer plug connected to the TV could blow fuses on the TV.

I guess we have sort of hijacked this thread from tow chains to breakaway switches. Maybe it would be better titled as break away safety devices since the switch and chains make up that system.

[audio1der]

They're closely related as you say; no harm, no foul. Hopefully someone walks away better informed.
I had an acquaintance who is a lead RV tech walk me through greasing my bearings, and discussed the safety chain loop under the ball. He STRONGLY cautioned me against moving the chain mount point(s). He has full confidence it would function as designed.
I now have a fully greased, proper length breakaway cable trailer we can't use because our cat decide to eat a Barbie purse and required surgery. Humbug.

[Coconutz]

This post is a week old now, but it caught my attention because I was baffled at the length of the breakaway vs the length of safety chain I had. Could you shorten the cable and if so how would you go about that or do you need to replace the whole cable? I currently attach mine to the frame as well with a climbing carabiner but it needs to be put way forward and I'm concerned it'll snag on something and pull the pin unnecessarily

[bsmith0404]

You can easily shorten the cable. There are several types of crimps you can use to create your new loop. Just go to your local hardware/home improvement store and look in the cable/chain area. There are crimp type and bolt types available.