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Old 10-27-2020, 08:18 AM   #21
Rdynbama
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Wheel bearing maintenance

While we’re on the subject. What’s the safest way to get a 39 ft 14000 lb 5th wheel off the ground?
I’m thinking my best shot would be leaving it hooked to the truck and use my Anderson jack and do one wheel at a time 🤷*♂️
Suggestions?
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rdynbama View Post
While we’re on the subject. What’s the safest way to get a 39 ft 14000 lb 5th wheel off the ground?
I’m thinking my best shot would be leaving it hooked to the truck and use my Anderson jack and do one wheel at a time 🤷*♂️
Suggestions?
It would really help if you shared some info. What make and model and year? If you go to the top left of the page and click on "UserCP" and edit signature you can add the info for yolur trailer and your tow vehichle there.

Also do you have the 6 point leveling system? If you do, most folks use that to in manual mode to raise the wheels off the ground for bearing service.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Rdynbama View Post
While we’re on the subject. What’s the safest way to get a 39 ft 14000 lb 5th wheel off the ground?
I’m thinking my best shot would be leaving it hooked to the truck and use my Anderson jack and do one wheel at a time 🤷*♂️
Suggestions?
Your towing a 2019 Raptor 353, correct (should put that in your signature)? Does it have the Lippert Level-Up hydraulic system? If so, you can raise it off the ground using the Level-Up system for changing tires, wheel maintenance, etc. I'm sure some will disagree. Officially, the Lippert product data says you shouldn't get under the trailer using only the hydraulic system; it requires the use of jack stands or other supports before maintenance. But I think that is primarily a liability insurance issue. Don't get your hands, feet, or body under any part of the rig when doing this. But the lippert system is designed to easily lift the entire trailer - and many of us use it specifically for what you indicated. JMHO
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:32 AM   #24
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Yes it’s a 2019 Raptor with the Lippert 6 point leveling system and TV 2011 F450
I thought I had that in my signature I’ll go back and edit when I can use something other than my phone
The garage I park the Raptor under only has about a foot of clearance between the top of the ac and the rafters
I feel like it might take more room to get all four wheels off the ground
I did peek into rv shop in north Alabama before the COVID and they had one similar to mine with the front jacks fully retracted and putting jack stands under the rear like they were going raise all four wheels
I didn’t stick around to see the whole process if that is actually what they were going to do?
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Old 10-27-2020, 02:36 PM   #25
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Tony (OP), somehow this statement escaped me originally: "You can prolong the life more or less indefinitely by shooting some grease through the fitting before every trip."
This is just wrong on so many levels. Yes, it has already been pointed out, but it can't be said enough.
If you were to 'just shoot some grease' into this space every trip, where do would it go? At some point it is going to pass by the rear seal and PRESTO!! it is all over your brake shoes. As has been mentioned, the zerks should only be used on trailers without brakes.
I hope the previous posters filled you in sufficiently on how to inspect , clean and re-grease the bearings, etc. I just wanted to make it VERY clear that the above practice is bad news.
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:46 AM   #26
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Thanks But I’ve been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and no stranger to inspecting and repacking bearings in various industrial environments
I’m just looking for suggestions on the safest way to get this behemoth off the ground
My last RV was smaller and lighter and I just jacked up one wheel at a time
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Old 10-28-2020, 04:50 AM   #27
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I have always repacked my bearings by jacking "one wheel at a time"... It requires less equipment, less time gathering it and putting it away....

The "unmentioned added benefit" of jacking one wheel at a time is that it eliminates the possibility of "mixing bearings and races".... When you have two inner and two outer bearings in a cleaning solvent, it's much easier to "put them back on the wrong spindle".... Much easier and improves reliability of the axles if that doesn't happen......
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Old 10-28-2020, 05:45 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Rdynbama View Post
Thanks But I’ve been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and no stranger to inspecting and repacking bearings in various industrial environments
I’m just looking for suggestions on the safest way to get this behemoth off the ground
My last RV was smaller and lighter and I just jacked up one wheel at a time
If you have 6 point autolevel, then your fine using it to lift the whole unit. I have done it on 43’ toyhaulers. I take all the drums off and put the bearings for that spindle in the center cap. I do clean them one set at a time, other techs have a 2X4 with screws so they can stack them in the order of the axles.
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Old 10-28-2020, 06:08 AM   #29
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Save 4 coffee cans, coffee creamer containers, or cut off milk jugs or 2 liter soda bottles. Label with a permenant marker for each location. Place bearings in repective containers if you want to soak them.

No mix up problem.
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Old 10-28-2020, 08:03 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Rdynbama View Post
Thanks But I’ve been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and no stranger to inspecting and repacking bearings in various industrial environments
I’m just looking for suggestions on the safest way to get this behemoth off the ground
My last RV was smaller and lighter and I just jacked up one wheel at a time
With the 6 point system use it to raise the rv. Mine sat for 4 days with no wheels, nothing but the 6 point system, while waiting for replacement brakes. A jack or stands under the axle for safety wouldn't be a bad idea while working in them. Just FYI, with the 6 point you can raise one side at a time if that's what you chose, go to manual & use right or left.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:41 AM   #31
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Thank you all for your suggestions and advice
I’m back working 7-12 s for a while so I guess this project is gonna to be postponed for a few weeks
Thanks again
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Old 05-13-2021, 01:02 PM   #32
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I'm late to this post but I have a question regarding packing the bearings & storing the trailer. I have a 2003 Cougar 276 5er. My trailer has been sitting on the concrete patio for over six years due to events we couldn't control. I replaced the tires two years ago since the others were getting aged. Other than that the trailer has not moved.

Should all the bearings be removed and repacked? How do I find out what bearing and bearing seal should be used? I know many RV'ers carry a spare set of bearings but I don't have them. I also would like to know if I should set the trailer on jacks so the tires are not touching the ground? I have the jacks so it wouldn't be an issue.

Last but not least, the labels on the right side of the trailer have warped due to exposure to the sun. The other side is fine since that side is in the shade 90% of the time. Should I remove the warped labels? I can easily do it using a set of plastic chisels I bought a few years ago.

Thanks,
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Old 05-13-2021, 01:38 PM   #33
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The bearings should be inspected every so often. I don't remember the recommended time frame, but I think it's something like every two years or so many miles. which ever comes first. Given you're are more than 5 years, I would definitely do it.

By cleaning the bearings out, you can inspect them and make sure they are still good. Lots of you tube videos show how to do this. It's really easy.

You definitely need to have the tires off the ground to remove the wheels. Just do so in the safest manner you can. Remember not to jack under the axle tube, as this can easily be bent.

There will be a sticker on the axle tube. You can contact the axle manufacturer with this info and they will tell you what bearings and seals your axle uses. On my trailer, I was told they were 4400lb axles, but after calling Dexter, I found they are actually 5200lb de-rated to 4400lb.

You will likely not have to replace the bearings, but you should replace the seals each time you have the drum off the axle.

One more thing - each wheel consists of an inner bearing and race and an outer bearing and race. The bearings and races match to each other, so don't mix them up. I number my wheels and then keep all the parts for wheel #1 in a bin labeled #1, and #2 in a bin labeled #2, etc.
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:56 PM   #34
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One more thing - each wheel consists of an inner bearing and race and an outer bearing and race. The bearings and races match to each other, so don't mix them up. I number my wheels and then keep all the parts for wheel #1 in a bin labeled #1, and #2 in a bin labeled #2, etc.
Since we resurrected this thread, here's a question I've been curious about.....

I now know that the bearings and races sort of fit together as a unit through use. Several months ago I had to replace a hub (through no fault of the bearings) and purchased a new one. The new hub came with bearings/races pre-installed.

Prior to discarding the old hub I salvaged my original inner/outer bearings and placed them in my truck toolbox as spares, along with a couple of new seals. Unfortunately I never gave any thought to pulling out the races prior to discarding the old hub.

Can I use these salvaged bearings (sans races) in a pinch as a temporary roadside fix should I have a bearing failure while on a trip, or should I spring for a new set of bearings and races to keep in my truck toolbox?

On a side note, it looks like replacing a race requires a bearing driver set. I've not seen that tool mentioned before on the various repack threads here. In the Youtube video I just watched the mechanic used a flat bladed punch to remove the race, and the driver tool to insert the new race.
Do you guys that repack own a driver set or is there a backyard trick to doing it without this tool?
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Old 05-13-2021, 02:58 PM   #35
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See if the factory paper tag is still on the axle tube. Take a pic of it with your phone or write down all the info. Call Dexter and they will tell you which bearings and seal. There are some other online resources for the same info if you trust them. Just Google...Dexter 6,000 axle bearings. Look at youtube videos for some guidance on how to inspect and replace bearings. It's easy, but then it ain't.
If you feel over your head, pay a reputable shop to do it.
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:04 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by markcee View Post
Since we resurrected this thread, here's a question I've been curious about.....

I now know that the bearings and races sort of fit together as a unit through use. Several months ago I had to replace a hub (through no fault of the bearings) and purchased a new one. The new hub came with bearings/races pre-installed.

Prior to discarding the old hub I salvaged my original inner/outer bearings and placed them in my truck toolbox as spares, along with a couple of new seals. Unfortunately I never gave any thought to pulling out the races prior to discarding the old hub.

Can I use these salvaged bearings (sans races) in a pinch as a temporary roadside fix should I have a bearing failure while on a trip, or should I spring for a new set of bearings and races to keep in my truck toolbox?

On a side note, it looks like replacing a race requires a bearing driver set. I've not seen that tool mentioned before on the various repack threads here. In the Youtube video I just watched the mechanic used a flat bladed punch to remove the race, and the driver tool to insert the new race.
Do you guys that repack own a driver set or is there a backyard trick to doing it without this tool?
As cheap as Chinese bearings are, buy a new complete set.
I usually use a 1/2" diameter X 6" long round brass bar to remove races and a Harbor Freight bearing bearing driver to install.
I have a bearing packer but usually just use my hands.
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:05 PM   #37
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I would keep a set of new bearings/races to use as replacements if/when replacements are needed. I would not re-use a bearing in a race other than the one it was matched with. I'm probably being too cautious, but they just aren't that expensive, so I don't risk it.

Removing the races just needs a brass drift punch. Just tap around the edge until it comes out. Same putting the new one in. Like these (although I'm sure there are cheaper ones): https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-61360-.../dp/B000XSEC9Y
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:10 PM   #38
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I am going to do mine this spring......sometime, as soon as I finish my project of putting new deck boards on our 16' x 24' deck (trex composite boards and remove the old wooden boards). My plan is to manually lift one side of the trailer (triple axle toy hauler) with the Lippert hydraulics....but not completely off the ground. I think I would feel better lift one side until the tires are almost off the ground, basically removing most of the weight off of the tires, then use a floor jack or bottle jack to jack up one wheel. Do that wheel, put the tire/wheel back on, then do the next one....then the last one. Then move over to the other side of the trailer and so the same thing....one wheel at a time. Does this sound like a doable solution? I would rather not have all three wheels off the trailer at the same time.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:01 PM   #39
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My trailer only has 4 wheels, but I pulled them all off at once. I just kept track of the parts from each wheel using numbered bins. This made it easier for me to do all the cleaning, at the same time, then all the greasing at the same time, etc. - rather than do one wheel start to finish and then the next wheel start to finish. YMMV.
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:56 PM   #40
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Never ever mix used races and bearings that were not originally installed and used together.
Never ever leave a clean or greased bearing out in the open for dust, dirt, or duck poop to get in.
If you clean a bearing with a solvent get some oil or grease in it ASAP.
Don't buy bearings stored in an open wire bin with no wrapping. Oh yeah, saw that at a major trailer shop in Houston.
Don't buy bearings from a store next to railroad tracks. Told by and enjoyed by anal gearheads. Think...roller and race etching from the railroad vibrations. Yep, that's what I said. LOL
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