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Old 06-28-2022, 06:01 AM   #21
bsmith0404
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Originally Posted by wiredgeorge View Post
Too heavy a trailer for my tow vehicle never happened to me! I had a truck camper which probably weighed twice as much as my payload. Fortunately my wife wouldn't not take a shower in the wet bath and insisted I get a travel trailer. Also sold my overmatched F150 and bought a very used F250 as we only use our truck for camping for the most part and an occasional hauling task.
Did I read that correctly, you had a slide in truck camper on an F150? Oh how I miss the good ol days when everyone had a 1/2 ton truck and used it for EVERYTHING. We used to load up as many bales of hay we could fit on one, probably in the neighborhood of 40-50 bales at 80lbs each. Back then we would have laughed at anyone who was worried about exceeding their payload by a couple hundred lbs.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:25 AM   #22
flybouy
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Originally Posted by bsmith0404 View Post
Did I read that correctly, you had a slide in truck camper on an F150? Oh how I miss the good ol days when everyone had a 1/2 ton truck and used it for EVERYTHING. We used to load up as many bales of hay we could fit on one, probably in the neighborhood of 40-50 bales at 80lbs each. Back then we would have laughed at anyone who was worried about exceeding their payload by a couple hundred lbs.
I recall "back in the day" also. As I recall most folks had enough common sense not to drive a camper like they were in a motocross, traffic was a fraction of what it is now, and there weren't 1,000 lawyers advertising to "get rich" off your stupidity because you didn't have enough common sense not to spill hot coffee in your lap.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:35 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
I recall "back in the day" also. As I recall most folks had enough common sense not to drive a camper like they were in a motocross, traffic was a fraction of what it is now, and there weren't 1,000 lawyers advertising to "get rich" off your stupidity because you didn't have enough common sense not to spill hot coffee in your lap.
But increasing the speed rating on trailer tires means it’s now safe to tow a 20k lb trailer connected to an 8k lb truck at 80 mph in rush hour traffic as long as everything is within specs…
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:47 AM   #24
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OP don't jump the gun just yet looking for a new RV...you might get the cart before the horse.

Weigh that rig like you travel and camp, full of anything/everything you can and will take with you and see where you are. If your estimates are correct you will find that you exceed your payload (1534) substantially. If so, then what?

Assess what all is in that truck...you're taking a lot of gear. Can you leave all of it at home? Do you WANT to leave all of it at home or have toys to play with when you are traveling? I expect the latter. In that case an option is to downsize the trailer...but, you need to get pretty small to be able to use that truck and carry that much gear which will probably take a lot of potential enjoyment out of the camping trip. Answer? Different, more capable truck.

A HD truck will give you much more carrying (payload) capacity. Most agree to just skip a 3/4 ton and go to a 1 ton since the price difference is negligible but the increase in capability is a lot (btdt). With truck prices the way they are right now you might come out "smelling like a rose" as they say on a trade. That would position you for a trailer upgrade in the future when that comes along....and it generally does for most folks.

Some other thoughts; why the shell on the bed? I don't like them with a trailer because you can't see it...and you need to be able to see it. They're heavy and cumbersome. Why not a bed cover of some kind...retractable, foldable etc.? Protects your gear but you can see. Looks like the sticker on your hitch says Husky. What kind of Husky wdh? The pic doesn't show the little add on balls for the little side plate friction sway control; do you have and use those? That rig needs a good sway control setup and the friction plates don't do much. When you get that new truck I'd just get an Equalizer wdh with sway to complete the package and sell what you have.
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:20 AM   #25
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For the OP, you have several issues here that need to be addressed and between everyone, they’ve all been hit.

First, your setup is not correct. As I mentioned initially, you are way too nose high. That needs to be fixed in order to get your tv to sit properly. Even if you ran out and bought a new trailer or new truck, you can mask the issue, but it’s still not correct

Second, as I and others have mentioned, you don’t have any sway control on that Husky hitch. Even if you go get the strut and ball to mount it, it’s not a great system. Upgrade your hitch

Finally, your truck is not an ideal tv for an rv. There are several issues with 1/2 ton trucks, tires and payload probably the most noted/common. I would seriously look into a truck upgrade before a trailer downsize, jmo.

If finances are a concern (when aren’t they), the most economical short term solution is to seriously shed some weight. The topper, and 500 lbs of gear in the back of the truck in addition to the gear you put in the trailer needs a good look to determine need vs want.
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:51 AM   #26
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Who in their right mind would ever put a slide in camper in a half ton???

Yup, that's a '72 Datsun. To be honest it had a higher payload than any other 1/2t at the time. (2250lbs.) BUT, drum brakes, 4 cyl. and 4 speed manual trans. Dual wheel adapters helped stability some what.
Oh to be young and foolish again. Still don't know how we survived to be old and foolish, Hank
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Old 06-28-2022, 08:59 AM   #27
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Just one last comment (from me) on towing campers with vehichles running at maximum capacity. I'm a firm believer of operating any mechanical or electrical device at less then maximum capacity. It will just last longer with less issues. I also believe in using the right tool for the job.

If you evaluate the typical 1/2 ton truck they are designed as a light duty truck. What's that mean? It means it's designed to carry light loads in the bed (washer, fridge, mattress, etc). They are ok for occasional towing smaller trailers like a utility trailer, jet ski, pop-up, etc. The mirrors don't extend to see around a large trailer and the tires are typically Passenger tires not Light Truck tires.

With a 3/4 ton or heavier truck the frame is much stronger, the drivetrain is more robust with larger cooling radiators for the transmission, power steering, etc. The suspension is heavier (more capable springs, larger brakes, etc.). They are designed to used and worked.
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Old 06-28-2022, 09:06 AM   #28
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Who in their right mind would ever put a slide in camper in a half ton???

Yup, that's a '72 Datsun. To be honest it had a higher payload than any other 1/2t at the time. (2250lbs.) BUT, drum brakes, 4 cyl. and 4 speed manual trans. Dual wheel adapters helped stability some what.
Oh to be young and foolish again. Still don't know how we survived to be old and foolish, Hank
It was only about 10 years ago and I was old and foolish at the time. If memory serves it was an 870 model. Now Lance is advertising boldly "half ton owners rejoice" and touting their 650 and their website says:

With a dry weight of just over two thousand pounds which includes class-leading standard features like aluminum frame construction, radius acrylic tinted thermopane euro windows, tankless water heater, ducted heat, one-piece PVC roof, Bluetooth/app-enabled audio system, and Euro-Ply framed cabinets; the 650 is the perfect match for many of today's popular half-ton trucks!

In the "specs" it says: Wet Weight w/Std. Equipment 2264 Lbs.

When I bought the Lance, I was in need of some sort of camper as I was going for med treatments for four months and had to live in the thing. When I realized that camper may not be the answer to my missus' dreams (it had a wet bath and when you turned the heat on, condensation from the vent over the bed dripped in your face) I got rid of the camper and 1/2 ton and bought an older F250 and bumper pull (23' Sunnybrook) and paid cash. Wife only came on weekends or I visited home taking my GS1000G which I had carted in the back of the truck. For a single person, the little Sunnybrook was fine and the F250 did well.
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:31 PM   #29
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Who in their right mind would ever put a slide in camper in a half ton???

Yup, that's a '72 Datsun. To be honest it had a higher payload than any other 1/2t at the time. (2250lbs.) BUT, drum brakes, 4 cyl. and 4 speed manual trans. Dual wheel adapters helped stability some what.
Oh to be young and foolish again. Still don't know how we survived to be old and foolish, Hank
Wow that brings back memories. I had Datsun pu IIRC it was a late 70 's. The frame under it was like a HD truck. Mine had a 2 peice dive shaft and a 4 sp tranny. 1 st gear was a stump puller. In 4 th gear it topped out around 65 to 70 mph and was out like a lwn mower with WOT.
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:24 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by hankpage View Post
Who in their right mind would ever put a slide in camper in a half ton???

Yup, that's a '72 Datsun. To be honest it had a higher payload than any other 1/2t at the time. (2250lbs.) BUT, drum brakes, 4 cyl. and 4 speed manual trans. Dual wheel adapters helped stability some what.
Oh to be young and foolish again. Still don't know how we survived to be old and foolish, Hank

Slide in camper and a 1/2 ton?? Oh boy. Bought a new 1969 Chevy C10 long bed, 350, 4 speed...no radio, no A/C. I loved that truck. Moved to OK but my parents called and said a fella back in our town in TX had a "shop built" cabover camper he'd sell for $250. Drove back to look at it and man it was nice....and it was HEAVY! Never weighed it but when it sat down in that pickup that poor 1/2 ton just squatted. It's a "truck" right? Put some overload springs on her, HD shocks, LT tires and some other doo dads (never heard of air shocks back then). Traveled all over Southern CO with that thing...did I mention it was HEAVY? I had to slow down to turtle speed to take a corner because it was so heavy, the truck so soft and it was so tall it would have turned over on its side. Even then you would get sea sick as the truck would list about 20 degrees side to side. Boy, those were the days. Not a thought in the world about "weights", I have no earthly idea how we survived....but I sure had fun!!
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Old 06-28-2022, 04:37 PM   #31
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Danny it was around that time when I was visiting relatives in WV. One of my cousins bought a slide in camper for his 1/2 ton Ford. He asked me to help him set it down and secure it. Then we went for a ride. He slowly went down the hill from his house which was about 1/4 mile down a steep hill, about a 10% grade. He was scared by how light the steering felt so at the bottom of the hill he turned around to go back.

As he Bagan the climb he realized the front wheels were off the ground. I ended up standing on the front bumber while he inched up the hill, tires barely contacting the asphalt. One of those stories that still comes up when we see each other after all the years.
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Old 06-28-2022, 06:59 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Danny it was around that time when I was visiting relatives in WV. One of my cousins bought a slide in camper for his 1/2 ton Ford. He asked me to help him set it down and secure it. Then we went for a ride. He slowly went down the hill from his house which was about 1/4 mile down a steep hill, about a 10% grade. He was scared by how light the steering felt so at the bottom of the hill he turned around to go back.

As he Bagan the climb he realized the front wheels were off the ground. I ended up standing on the front bumber while he inched up the hill, tires barely contacting the asphalt. One of those stories that still comes up when we see each other after all the years.
The wheels would only come off the ground as high as the rear bumper would allow, old school wheelie bars. Should have just gunned it and measured how far you rode the wheelie.
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Old 06-29-2022, 05:27 AM   #33
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[QUOTE=chuckster57;506537]With the trailer level, measure from the ground to the top of the A frame coupler (where the ball fits into). Then mount the hitch so the ball is 3” higher, and tilted AWAY from the truck about 10-15 degrees.

Chuck, I did not know that about the degree of tilt. Why

I have always wondered about that washer with the degree settings. I have mine set at 90 degrees to the hitch. Now you have got me wondering if I have been doing it wrong all this time and would I have improved safety/control with it set 10-15 degrees away?


Would you mind elaborating a bit on this?
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Old 06-29-2022, 06:28 AM   #34
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[QUOTE=German Shepherd Guy;506729]
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With the trailer level, measure from the ground to the top of the A frame coupler (where the ball fits into). Then mount the hitch so the ball is 3” higher, and tilted AWAY from the truck about 10-15 degrees.

Chuck, I did not know that about the degree of tilt. Why

I have always wondered about that washer with the degree settings. I have mine set at 90 degrees to the hitch. Now you have got me wondering if I have been doing it wrong all this time and would I have improved safety/control with it set 10-15 degrees away?


Would you mind elaborating a bit on this?
Oak
I have always set the ball about 10 degrees away from the TV, and was told it helps “load the bars”.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ead%20assembly.
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Old 06-29-2022, 01:17 PM   #35
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[QUOTE=chuckster57;506737]
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Originally Posted by German Shepherd Guy View Post
I have always set the ball about 10 degrees away from the TV, and was told it helps “load the bars”.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...ead%20assembly.
That 10 degree "offset" also helps hitching and "ball release" when unhitching. The "trick" is to offset the ball enough to release the coupler fingers but not so much that it interferes with the coupler front flange.
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Old 07-04-2022, 03:46 PM   #36
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Congratulation ! Nice setup!
One thing to keep in mind. If you go off road where the dirt road has lots of ups-and-downs, remember to disconnect your equalizer bars so the truck can pivot some. Damage might occur if you don't.
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Old 07-05-2022, 10:51 AM   #37
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Ok find a nice flat safe place parking lot etc

Disconnect the trailer chock wheels use A frame jack to level camper measure from frame to ground front and back of camper adjust A frame jack until both ends match

Now measure from ground to top of ball pocket on A frame add 3 inches to that figure set the ball height on the rear of the truck to the final figure

Next measure from the ground to the wheel opening lip on both front and rear record the numbers

Now hitch the truck to the camper and lower A frame jack secure ball latch

Using A frame jack raise rear of truck along with nose of camper until the rear wheel opening lip is 3 inches higher than the recorded number attach torsion bars. Lower the A frame jack and measure front and rear wheel opening lips to the ground both should be within 1 inch of recorded number adjust torsion bars if not within 1 inch of unload

More height with A frame jack gives more tension raising rear of truck / front of camper

Less has the opposite effect
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