Power to TT During Hookup

[Weldon]

Got a question for you all. When we camp, I go through my normal process to hookup to shore power....ensure 30amp breaker is off, hookup EMS, turn on 30 amp (and ensure there are no errors), turn everything off, then connect cord to EMS and to TT. Then turn breaker back on. Easy, right?

The last 3 or 4 times we've camped, I done this and then walked around and looked at the microwave, and there is no power. So I think, "is something loose?" I double check everything, then when I still get no power, I break out my backup 30 amp cord and try it. Still nothing. BTW, a year or so ago i swapped our our mousehole with the twist and lock, and have used it successfully many times.

I eventually re-hook up my primary cord, get tired of dealing with it, and start setting up something else like water, sewage, etc. After a few mins (5-10), i hear my wife say "we have power!"

Wondering why this would be happening. I have a battery disconnect, but i turn it on before pulling the TT and don't turn it off until the trip is over. I've taken the battery and had it load tested, and it passed with flying colors. I've looked at every fuse (and wire connections), and cannot find anything.

When i first hookup my EMS and flip the 30 amp breaker with the cord connected, I sometimes see 0A (zero amps). I'm no electrician, but I assume this means 0 amps from shore power. Later (a day or so after we get power), it will read 26A or more, which makes sense because it's a 30 amp breaker.

This has happened at multiple campgrounds...at least 3. I would like to know what could be happening, and if there is something I can do differently (or need to fix).

Not a hi-pri situation, but would like to take care of it before our next trip (which isn't planned yet, and we plan at least 2 weeks out). Plus i live in GA and it gets hot in the Summer. Not as hot as the mid-west, but hot enough for me.

[bsmith0404]

It’s basically the surge protector doing it’s job. On mine I can hear a definite thump, when it finally lets power through. It’s just making sure there is stable power before supplying it to the RV. I will say over the years it seams to take longer, may be getting time for a replacement.

[Roper46]

The first thing I do after chocking my 5er is to plug in my EMS. Then it goes thru all it's cycles checking the power pedestal. I am not sure exactly how long the EMS takes, but by the time I am chocked and ready to unhook it is ready. Also, I check the code on the EMS, if I remember correctly it will say "E 0" indicating there are no errors at the pedestal. The little manual that came with the EMS lists all the codes.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by Roper46

The first thing I do after chocking my 5er is to plug in my EMS. Then it goes thru all it's cycles checking the power pedestal. I am not sure exactly how long the EMS takes, but by the time I am chocked and ready to unhook it is ready. Also, I check the code on the EMS, if I remember correctly it will say "E 0" indicating there are no errors at the pedestal. The little manual that came with the EMS lists all the codes.

Thanks Dan. This seems like another issue where nothing is truly wrong and i've been worried about nothing. Better safe than sorry! Last thing I want to do is to pull up to a south GA campsite in July or August and tell the kids there is no AC. That doesn't go well in my family

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

It’s basically the surge protector doing it’s job. On mine I can hear a definite thump, when it finally lets power through. It’s just making sure there is stable power before supplying it to the RV. I will say over the years it seams to take longer, may be getting time for a replacement.

So nothing to worry about? I have 2 PT30x ems. Original had water dripping from it. Progressive sent me a replacement. I dried out the wet one and put it back together and it works. Only use that one as a backup.

[wiredgeorge]

What make/model EMS do you have? If you have other AC outlets working and not the microwave, keep in mind the microwave is on a separate breaker. I would unplug and tighten the neutral (white) wire on the neutral buss and make sure the black wire going into the breaker itself labeled microwave is connected securely. You might want to unplug the microwave and have a look at the outlet; I replaced mine with a standard home outlet as the wires inside that outlet from the factory are just pressed between some blades that cut the insulation and make contact and can vibrate loose. It is quicker but a less secure way to install electrical outlets.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

What make/model EMS do you have? If you have other AC outlets working and not the microwave, keep in mind the microwave is on a separate breaker. I would unplug and tighten the neutral (white) wire on the neutral buss and make sure the black wire going into the breaker itself labeled microwave is connected securely. You might want to unplug the microwave and have a look at the outlet; I replaced mine with a standard home outlet as the wires inside that outlet from the factory are just pressed between some blades that cut the insulation and make contact and can vibrate loose. It is quicker but a less secure way to install electrical outlets.

I could be wrong, I just assumed he was using the microwave as an indicator if the trailer has power. I do the same thing since I can see it from the door.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

I could be wrong, I just assumed he was using the microwave as an indicator if the trailer has power. I do the same thing since I can see it from the door.

Correct. Just as an indicator. I've checked every wire for looseness. As mentioned above, I have (2) PT30X progressive EMS.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

What make/model EMS do you have? If you have other AC outlets working and not the microwave, keep in mind the microwave is on a separate breaker. I would unplug and tighten the neutral (white) wire on the neutral buss and make sure the black wire going into the breaker itself labeled microwave is connected securely. You might want to unplug the microwave and have a look at the outlet; I replaced mine with a standard home outlet as the wires inside that outlet from the factory are just pressed between some blades that cut the insulation and make contact and can vibrate loose. It is quicker but a less secure way to install electrical outlets.

Great idea. Replaced that outlet when I replaced 6 others including gfci. Microwave works fine once power is to entire TT. Not wave-specific.

[markcee]

The Progressive PT-30X and PT-50X both have a 136 second time delay feature built in.

From the manual:

Time Delay for A/C Compressor: When first plugging in, if AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault, the 2 minute 16 seconds (136 seconds) time delay
is activated.

This occurs each time it's plugged in, so I'm guessing the EMS treats the initial plug in as an 'interruption'?

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by markcee

The Progressive PT-30X and PT-50X both have a 136 second time delay feature built in.

From the manual:

Time Delay for A/C Compressor: When first plugging in, if AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault, the 2 minute 16 seconds (136 seconds) time delay
is activated.

This occurs each time it's plugged in, so I'm guessing the EMS treats the initial plug in as an 'interruption'?

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-pt30x

Now i just feel stupid. I saw this part "if AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault, the 2 minute 16 seconds (136 seconds) time delay
is activated" but not the "When first plugging in" part. And because of the water I found in my original, i've read that booklet at least 5 times. I do, however, feel much better knowing it was not a fault with my hookup process, battery, TT, etc. I appreciate you pointing that out (even though I now feel much less intelligent)

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by Weldon

I saw this part "if AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault, the 2 minute 16 seconds (136 seconds) time delay
is activated" but not the "When first plugging in" part.

This is why plugging in the cable is the very first thing I do after parking, even before chocking. I want that delay time to be over and the A/C running as soon as possible, especially in this heat!

[Camping family]

How I do it. Park 5th wheel/chock wheels/unhook/level/connect water/power/ let out slides/turn breaker on inside. Crack open a cold one.

[flybouy]

The time delay is built in to protect the a/c compressor as previously stated. The EMS has no way of knowing it this was initial energizing or whether it is after a power drop out. When you unplugged it and checked it, plugged in your other cable, etc. you just reset the time delay each time you interrupted the power.

[Weldon]

Originally Posted by flybouy

The time delay is built in to protect the a/c compressor as previously stated. The EMS has no way of knowing it this was initial energizing or whether it is after a power drop out. When you unplugged it and checked it, plugged in your other cable, etc. you just reset the time delay each time you interrupted the power.

Makes sense. So what is the proper sequence?
- Turn Breaker Off
- Plug in EMS
- Turn Breaker On and watch EMS for errors
-Turn Breaker off and plug in power cord
-Turn on Breaker and wait 2 mins 16 seconds

??

[markcee]

Originally Posted by Weldon

Makes sense. So what is the proper sequence?
- Turn Breaker Off
- Plug in EMS
- Turn Breaker On and watch EMS for errors
-Turn Breaker off and plug in power cord
-Turn on Breaker and wait 2 mins 16 seconds

??

Great question...curious about this as well as I'm thinking (at least with the Progressive units), why not simply:

- ensure breaker off
- plug in EMS
- plug in power cord (both trailer side and EMS)
- turn on breaker

My (possibly errant) thinking is that if there is an issue, the EMS is going to catch it, prevent power from going to the trailer and throw an error code anyway.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by markcee

Great question...curious about this as well as I'm thinking (at least with the Progressive units), why not simply:

- ensure breaker off
- plug in EMS
- plug in power cord (both trailer side and EMS)
- turn on breaker

My (possibly errant) thinking is that if there is an issue, the EMS is going to catch it, prevent power from going to the trailer and throw an error code anyway.

Yep....

And, to take it "one step further".....

Why turn off the pedestal circuit breaker? When you think about it, the EMS won't draw power until the checks and the delay are completed, plugging in the trailer won't apply a load to the EMS so when you plug in the EMS to the pedestal, there's no amp draw so no sparks to burn the pins on the EMS.

So, theoretically, you can do it this way:

Attach the shore power cord to the trailer (or pull it out of the mouse hole) and plug it into the EMS.

Plug the EMS into the pedestal. It will do the checks and after the delay, apply power to the trailer if it checks good or not apply power to the trailer if there is an error.

Either result, pedestal circuit breaker off or on, there's no power to the trailer so no arcing of the EMS pins until after it's plugged in and the checks are completed.

[sourdough]

Just an echo here but plug the RV into the EMS, plug that into the ped, turn on the breaker and let it do its thing. When it kicks on everything is connected and you don't have a load sitting in the RV waiting to arc as you would if you just plugged in the EMS, waited until it was hot then plugged in the RV. Put it all together and let the EMS figure it out.

[flybouy]

Turn pedestal breaker off. Plug in EMS and trailer cord, turn breaker on. Go on setting up and if power doesn't come on in 2 min then check EMS for errors. Once I have the trailer level (no need to move it) then I plug in the shore power. Then continue setting up. My EMS is hardwired but I can still hear the relay when it connects.

[flybouy]

Actually I back in where I want the trailer then reach in my driver door and remove the 30 to 15 amp "hockey puck" adapter with an outlet tester plugged into it. If the breaker is on I turn it off (old habits) plug in the tester and see if the outlet is wired up correctly. This is a habit after one occurrence where I set everything up then had to move sites because of a failed outlet.

I swore I'd never make that mistake again. Whether or not you turn the breaker off setting up may not matter but definitely turn it off before unplugging it.