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Old 07-25-2019, 08:12 PM   #1
Old Mustanger
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Thumbs up AC Mods Worked

Based on tips gotten from this forum I sealed all of the vent openings to keep the cold air from going between the ceiling and roof and changed the factory vents to "full flow", closable vents. Also set the front zone (zone 2) 2 degrees lower than zone1. Results are we just spent 3 days/nights at a Texas State Park (Mother Neff) and the AC was able to keep us cool and comfortable (even shut off a couple times during the day). We had never felt the air coming out of the vents while sitting in our recliners before, what a difference. Just thought I'd share some good news and let others know that a little work can be well worth the effort!
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Old 07-26-2019, 04:17 AM   #2
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I did not see your first post so I have no Idea if this was mentioned. On alot of trailers the run goes past the vent. I put some insulation in the run up to the vent and taped off.before it was cooling a dead space. Maybe this will help even more. ENJOY
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:00 PM   #3
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Can you guys post a picture of what your talking about. We are in Florida and the AC has to work very hard to keep up with the heat.

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2019, 02:32 PM   #4
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I can't post a picture at this time.The Rear and the front vents are about 3 feet from the outside walls.They run a dead space from the vent to the front and rear walls.The air continues past the vent to the wall.Remove a vent cover and see if it goes past the vent.If they do you can fill the gap insulation or just tape it off. .Almost like if you took a straw and cut a notch 1/2 way down that is your vent.Now blow thru it. very little air will come out of the notch. Plug the end see the difference what comes out the notch. Hope this explains it alittle better.
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:01 PM   #5
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Tried to add a link to the replacement vents I installed but my computer ignorance is showing again. Look for these on Amazon.

8 of JR Products ACG25DPW-A Polar White Adjustable Ceiling Vent with 0.25" Collar

I'm also not having any luck attaching pictures. (I just upgraded from windows 8 to windows 10 and wish I hadn't.)

If you remove a vent from your ceiling you will most likely see gaps between the holes in the ceiling and duct that should be closed off with foil HVAC tape (available at Lowes or Home Depot).
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:45 AM   #6
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Before and after pics of resealing overhead air conditioner ducts
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Old 07-30-2019, 07:22 AM   #7
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On my last 5er the gap from the ceiling to the duct was only about 1/2" but the collar on the vent was about 2" essentially blocking the duct so I taped the gap & trimmed the collar down to even with the duct, had this in most of the vents. Also the duct runs were open on the ends past the last vent cooling the attic, for that I used foam pipe insulation cut a few inches longer than the duct width & sort of horseshoed it in the duct at those vents. All worked great afterwards.
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:20 PM   #8
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Shorting the Run

Just talked to a guy he used Pool Noodles bent in a horse shoe shape and tape them in.He cut them a little bit longer than the duct size.He was very Happy with the results
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:34 PM   #9
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Just talked to a guy he used Pool Noodles bent in a horse shoe shape and tape them in.He cut them a little bit longer than the duct size.He was very Happy with the results
That is what I used three years ago on our 5th wheel.
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Old 07-31-2019, 06:13 AM   #10
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Before and after pics of resealing overhead air conditioner ducts
Thanks for the picture. I checked our vents last night and luckily they seem well taped like the 2nd picture.

When I put my hand up into the vent and feel around, the air can most definitely be pushed past the vent and be lost in the ceiling.

My question is, and I want to make sure I get this right if I'm going to ask my hubby to put some insulation in there... Is it safe for us to put some foam pipe insulation/pool noodle in on the backside of where the air is coming from to force more of the air to the vent? Is this the right course of action to make the ac more efficient?
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Old 07-31-2019, 07:29 AM   #11
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The "block of foam" or other barrier should only be placed "at the end of the duct run" (not after a duct in the middle of the run). Whatever you use to block the endrun should be fitted properly to the duct. The ducting is thin rigid foam and if you push it too far or bend it with something that expands after being placed, you could crack your ducting and cause more problems than you're "fixing".... So, GENTLY insert whatever you choose "at the end of the duct run, after the last vent opening and then, after checking to make sure it's in the proper location and working as you expect, tape it in place to seal any air infiltration.
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Old 08-04-2019, 08:55 AM   #12
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My 2006 Laredo was cooling the roof area instead of the living area. Taped everything up like the factory should have done in the building. Very sad workmanship in some of the rv industry. Works much better now.
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Old 08-04-2019, 11:17 AM   #13
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Pull the return air grill and feel for cold air in the return air chamber. If you feel any, break out the foil tape and seal it off.
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Old 08-06-2019, 01:35 PM   #14
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In the Keystone Cougar brochure it brags about "race track ductwork connecting the 2 A/C units. So in the diagram it shows the duct going past the last vent then looping around going the length of the rig to the 2nd A/C unit. Just saying!
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Old 08-06-2019, 05:53 PM   #15
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In the Keystone Cougar brochure it brags about "race track ductwork connecting the 2 A/C units. So in the diagram it shows the duct going past the last vent then looping around going the length of the rig to the 2nd A/C unit. Just saying!
Wondering about this also. Only have the single A/C. Shouldn't the system be an endless loop?
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Old 08-07-2019, 03:48 AM   #16
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Cougar (and some Laredo) racetrack ductwork is different from the older "dead ended" ducting found in most trailers. I don't believe there is any way (or benefit) to attempting to block the end of a circular duct system.... Essentially, where is the "end" ????
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:46 PM   #17
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If you have only one AC (The bedroom has a fantastic fan) then there is no loop?... They are blocked off on each side of the fan opening?... If you remove the inner frame of the fantastic fan you should see the two blocked off area of the ductwork on each side as they are prewired/ducted for installation of an AC

And in the example above of a two AC "Loop" does the cold air actually circle and return into the AC unit? I have never seen that... Does the loop retun the ducted air nto the warm air intake of the AC?
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Old 08-10-2019, 08:30 PM   #18
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I installed the 2nd A/C yesterday and also foil taped everything I could find to tape. I also used a pool noodle to block off the duct going to the room where the 2nd A/C is as well as the dead end duct in the other end of the trailer. The difference is unbelievable.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:04 AM   #19
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Here is a dumb question. How do you get to the end of the ducting to see if it is block or not block. Very little ac in bathroom and last vent in living area before bath.
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Old 09-01-2019, 10:06 AM   #20
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Here is a dumb question. How do you get to the end of the ducting to see if it is block or not block. Very little ac in bathroom and last vent in living area before bath.
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One way is to take off the last known ceiling vent cover, use a flash light and a mirror to peer down the duct run. You can usually see to the end. Another "high tech" way is to use a borescope camera to view the duct runs. Most don't have access to that kind of equipment, so a flash light and mirror are the "means to the end"...
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