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Old 03-03-2020, 07:39 AM   #21
chuckster57
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I would try to use as much of the original plumbing as possible for the rinser.
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Old 03-03-2020, 08:38 AM   #22
flybouy
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I'm a little confuse on your option 2. I'd lean towards the original inlet being used but don't understand why you cannot connect the existing plumbing to the new rinser.

A vacuum break must be used no matter what to prevent back flow into the water supply. The original tank sprayer plumbing should have that built in to the supply line inside the camper. Also use a seperate water hose (not the one used for potable water) to connect the water supply to the tank rinser.
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Old 03-03-2020, 09:03 AM   #23
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I guess the tornado kit steered me towards option 2, but I think I can use the existing mile long plumbing. The tornado is now on the side of the tank instead of the far end where there is no room to install it. That change also led me option 2.
If I have to trim the tubing, what kind of fitting do I need to use on the end?
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Old 03-03-2020, 10:33 AM   #24
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I guess the tornado kit steered me towards option 2, but I think I can use the existing mile long plumbing. The tornado is now on the side of the tank instead of the far end where there is no room to install it. That change also led me option 2.
If I have to trim the tubing, what kind of fitting do I need to use on the end?
Not sure what type "tubing' you have but I'd think a shark bite would work or cut a couple inches of it off and take it to a home improvement or hardware store.
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Old 03-04-2020, 07:09 AM   #25
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Thanks, I'll see what I can do...
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:24 AM   #26
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Updates!
Trimmed the stock tubing and used a fitting I've carrying as a spare for years to attach to the new tornado. Seems to work fine and no leaks.
But the big news is me and my bro-in-law were able to insert the gray dump valve with the help of a car jack and piece of 2x4 as a spreader. So now after a test I can seal up the bottom and put this nightmare to sleep, lol
I'll post a pic of the tool for anyone who has to perform this unserviceable task...
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:37 AM   #27
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Good to hear. We use unconventional “tools” a lot to do what you did, leave you wondering how they do it at the factory.
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:40 AM   #28
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I'm pretty sure they mount the tanks onto the frame, which might even be upside down, before building the rest of the trailer...not designed for servicing.
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:44 AM   #29
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I'm pretty sure they mount the tanks onto the frame, which might even be upside down, before building the rest of the trailer...not designed for servicing.


I’m sure they do it with just the frame and upside down. Probably have all the plumbing glued together and the tanks just laying there until the drains are attached.
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2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:24 AM   #30
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Leak test passed, hooked up the cables and replaced the chloroplast (?). Ordered some scrim tape to seal it up.
Any suggestions to seal up the bottom completely?
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:40 AM   #31
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We use “great stuff” expanding foam. Once it’s set up you can even paint it.
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Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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Old 03-12-2020, 05:38 AM   #32
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Thanks again, all done.
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