2005 Raptor...need some guidance on plumbing

[Hooch]

Hey all, I'll just warn everyone up front...first post. I'm not new to RV's, I grew up in a starcraft pop up, and had a starcraft hybrid for a few years before the divorce. RV is a 2005 Raptor 3612



Back in early Jan I bought a used 5th wheel toy hauler that we intend to full time in very soon. We brought it home and started cleaning it up, I'm still trying to fix some of the wiring, and troubleshooting some electrical issues.


I decided today was the day to de-winterize it, incase there were issues...glad I did.


So, I flushed the antifreeze out, to include the water heater (no comment) bleached the freshwater tank and ran out of water. (RV parked at a neighbors, no water or electric so I have to carry everything down).


Found what I think is the kitchen sink drain valve broken off next to the cap. Put a bucket under the drain cap to start catching contaminated water and realized there's no valves or pull cables. Took the cap off and sure enough the entire RV drained on me and the grass. At least the Antifreeze was the non toxic type.


I found a hole almost under the steps with a single valve, I'm guessing the shower, but no handle.


Is there a way that I'm not thinking of that I can access the plumbing on this thing without dropping the underbelly? Also, any recommendations to relocate these valves near the drain? Not that I'm incapable, but I'd really prefer not to have to lay on my back at the dump station to access the valves on this thing.


It's going to be next week before I can get back to the camper, as I have an engagement this weekend I have to attend, but I'd like to have some sort of plan in place, as I have to vacate the house no later than 5/27, so I'm on a pretty tight schedule. At this point, I'm planning to have to re-plumb 1/2 the camper to make it as I think it ought to be, so I'm open to any suggestions...electric valves for all of this are a little out of my budget at this time, but I did look at them before asking.



Thanks in advance for any input!


~Hooch

[LewisB]

Wow - where to start...we had a 2008 3712TS so I'm assuming there might be some similarities to your rig. So let's start with the plumbing drains...

You do know that the RV has separate fresh, gray, and black tanks, correct?

• The gray drain tank (probably 2 on your rig) holds sink and shower drains, the black tank holds toilet drains. These two systems typically drain into a 3" drain pipe with the outlet on the curb side of the trailer - probably under the center of your curbside slide.
• There should be 3 T-handle cable controlled valves in a compartment on the curbside of the trailer, near the storage area compartment door. Pull the T-Handle out to open the valves, push in to close. This system will need to be connected with a portable hose to a dump station since it includes raw sewage from the black system. Set this up before you open the valves since you get a lot of drainage very quickly.
• Your fresh water tank will be filled from a water connection on the curb side of the rig. It will be an open pipe with a screw on cap. I suspect that the "small hole under the steps with a single valve" will be the fresh water tank drain valve. Additionally, you should find two small drains (probably on the curb side near the water heater) that will be the hot and cold low point drains. These would typically only be used to "winterize" or fully drain the fresh water and only on special occasions.

No, you can not access the plumbing without removing the underbelly corroplast. However, you should not have to "lay on your back" to drain the systems. Hook up your 3" drain hose to a dump station, open the 3 t-handle valves to dump the Black and then gray tanks, use a clean garden hose to fill the fresh water - all without laying down or getting underneath.

Hopefully, that's enough to get you started so you can ask more detailed questions.

Good luck!

[Hooch]

I drained the antifreeze from the lowpoint drains, and put fresh water into the holding tank with a pump and 6ea 5 gallon buckets. Also found out at this time that the sending units don't work, or the panel is bad...not the end of the world, and not surprising.


When I took my sewer drain hose to connect on the driver side of the rig, under the slideout, I took the cap off to find out there are no valves, cables or handles. Rig does have 2 grey tanks, and what looks like the kitchen sink drain line (1 1/2") has a valve but the handle is busted off and it's seized in the open position.



I found out after popping the cap off to connect the drain hose that all the lines are open...at that point I started cleaning up my mess and came back to the house to shower. I noticed the hole under the steps but didn't spend a lot of time under there, it was already getting dark, and I had water and antifreeze from all three tanks all over me.


I know how the drains work, just not sure of the ins and outs of this particular rig. I do appreciate the help though!

[travelin texans]

There should be a T handle connected by cables to the black & at least one grey tank in the convenience center where you connect city water. The other grey valve maybe hidden underneath somewhere.
My son had an older toyhauler that had a 3" valve on the doorside near the step that was for the fresh water drain.

[LewisB]

Originally Posted by Hooch

I drained the antifreeze from the lowpoint drains, and put fresh water into the holding tank with a pump and 6ea 5 gallon buckets. Also found out at this time that the sending units don't work, or the panel is bad...not the end of the world, and not surprising.

Tank sending units rarely work correctly...I would save this issue for some time in the future after getting more input from the forum.

When I took my sewer drain hose to connect on the driver side of the rig, under the slideout, I took the cap off to find out there are no valves, cables or handles. Rig does have 2 grey tanks, and what looks like the kitchen sink drain line (1 1/2") has a valve but the handle is busted off and it's seized in the open position.

It is very common for the tank valves to "leak by" filling the 3" drain pipe. So just because the pipe was full after sitting for an extended period does NOT necessarily mean that the valves are "open". Before you chase that issue, you need to find the T-handles that remotely operate the tank valves. On a Raptor, I think you will find the handles through the frame and along the outside edge of the frame. Check the entire frame - find those handles.

I found out after popping the cap off to connect the drain hose that all the lines are open...at that point I started cleaning up my mess and came back to the house to shower. I noticed the hole under the steps but didn't spend a lot of time under there, it was already getting dark, and I had water and antifreeze from all three tanks all over me.

Many (most?) of us have had that exact experience - either from leaking tank valves, or in my case from leaving the tank valves open at the last dump station. Pull the cap and you are covered with...well, you know. Again, however, that doesn't mean the tank valves are open - they could just be leaking.

I know how the drains work, just not sure of the ins and outs of this particular rig. I do appreciate the help though!

Hooch,
I've included my thoughts in blue from your last message. See photo below - these Raptors were set up essentially the same for a whole range of sizes and years. This is a 2005 3612 but the tank location would also be true for the DS and TS variants. The T-handles for the tank valves should be inside the small compartment marked with the red arrow in the photo. They will be through and mounted to the frame.

Just trying to help (not arguing)! Keep after it - you will get it!

[notanlines]

Hooch, in the meantime, before you get all into this, buy a couple of these and they will serve your purpose just fine until all the original valves are replaced.
https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...8416535&sr=8-1

[wiredgeorge]

My black tank valve leaked just a tad and when you would take the cap off to hook up the sewer hose, about a cup of brown came out. The Valtera gizmo Jim pointed out was a life saver. To replace my black tank drain you have to pull the black tank because it is so wedged into the Y with the main gray tank it doesn't allow enough clearance to slide out the old valve much less get the new one in without damaging the seals.

[LewisB]

Yup. After my black-tism I cut the 3" line in front of the cap and installed a valve - I call it my "last chance" valve.

• With the last chance valve closed, if the tank valves leak or are left open I can remove the cap without another bath.
• My trailer has 2 gray tanks that do not fill uniformly. With my last chance valve closed, I can open both gray valves and equalize the tanks.
• Lastly, I usually drain the black system, close the last chance valve, open the gray tank valve and let some of the gray water "back flush" into the black tank. Seems to be effective in helping keep the black tank clean.

[Hooch]

Appreciate everyone's reply's! Found the valves sunday night. There's a compartment under the outdoor shower that has them. All the drain lines were in there and it couldn't be seen. I've greased them and they work well now.


The line from the gray tank in the main sink is cracked, the valve handle is busted and where it connects to the 3" wye connector leaks. Essentially, if I run water in the sink its all coming out as fast as it goes in.



Outdoor shower is bad, as are the connections in the back.


So...outdoor shower and a new wye and I'll be in good shape. Appreciate everyones input. Apologize for the delayed response, we had a death in the club sunday, so most of my time is currently involved in making arrangements and getting all the guys places to sleep in the coming week.


I'll get back to repairing the toy hauler as soon as this is past.


Thanks,
Hooch