New TV break in

[gearhead]

John is making a very good point. In my previous life I had 6 reciprocating hydrogen compressors I was responsible for. They ran for 4-6 years continously. They had 500 gallon oil reservoirs and high effiency filters. A vendor pulled a oil sample monthly and emailed me the analysis. Rarely had any issue.
If I understand RAM oil change intervals, You can run up the miles if you do it within a year. I change at about 7,500 miles because I have some start stop cycles and town driving. 15W-40 Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Originally Posted by flybouy

No problem with steering out of the lane a bit,. I do it frequently. I just don't want someone thinking that if they buy a new PU then they can go 80K between oil changes.

Hopefully new uneducated owners will listen to there service advisors and/or read the manual and follow the guidelines OR come ask at a place like this fine forum.

I enjoy all the comments on here and actually find it quite interesting.

Back when I was still wrenching in the late 90’s, pretty much all “fleet” type vehicles were serviced at around 20k and light duty 3k-5k. The synthetic oil showed up in the early 90’s and the first vehicle I saw it in was a ford Crown Vic with a 4.6l OH cam V8. Rattling to beat the band. Those little lifters didn’t like the synthetic and at the time, neither did any of us. Man have times changed.

Like the earlier video, I had an Acura V6 come in on the hook, motor locked up. It had 47k on it. Pulled the dipstick and nothing. Raised it up and pulled the plug and got about a cup. Lowered it back down and pulled the valve covers and it was not like that jello substance but the hard crusty carbon type, hard as a rock. Could just see the rocker arms poking through. Talked a little with the gentleman and he bought it brand new and NEVER changed the oil. He heard it squeak off and on for about a week prior and said he had like what felt like the brakes holding him up from time to time but had no idea about the oil.

Once again thanks for all the comments, I appreciate them all.

Leaving in a half hour to pick up the new beast..can’t wait!!

Scott

[ACJCF2]

I did what the owner's manual said, 500 easy miles to break in the Diesel and the driveline and then hooked up.

[travelin texans]

Several years ago there was an old farmer in the area that probably never drove over 30 miles an hour, scary, in his 10-15 year old chevy. One day he stopped with a new pickup, I said "wow got a new truck" he says "yep the other had 95k miles so it was time" then he said "they got something back that I got with it new" I asked what, he said "the oil, I put a new filter on once a year & top it off, the drain plug has never been out since new, oil doesn't wear out, just gets dirty so I change the filter".

[tech740]

For Ram/Cummins/Aisin the break in is for the rear end. Cummins and Aisin both say to use their parts when you get them. Ram says the gears need some time.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

So since I’ve gotten it home and had a chance to actually go through the owners manual there are 3 separate break in procedures. First is in the engine section and one is to drive easy gradually upping speed to 50 mph in first 500 miles. Second and 3rd in the towing section.
1. Drive for 500 miles NO towing anything.

2. Hook up and tow not exceeding 50 mph and no “heel to the steel” starts.

I asked the sales guy and the service manager before I left the dealership and both told me about the 2nd 500 mile break in but nothing else. We looked in the manual and they read the third (towing) break in and had no idea. They too thought it was crazy to have to tow for 500 miles at or below 50 mph.
They said obviously to take it easy but considering the weight of my trailer at 12650 GVWR it was pretty light for this pickup. And they gave me the green light.

Much to my surprise when I got home and read the book and already “screwed the pooch” by missing the FIRST part of break in for ...yes...the engine.

I’m not losing any sleep over it though and holy cow what a dream to drive! I can not wait to get it hooked up.

Thanks again everyone.

Scott

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Originally Posted by jasin1

I waited the 500 miles...it’s hard to do if you have more then one vehicle..felt like it took forever. When you go into the trip odometer,it shows where you have trailer miles separately..

Yep I see that now, nice feature for keeping track of things.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS —
DIESEL ENGINE
The Cummins® Turbo Diesel engine does not require a break-in period due to its construction. Normal operation is allowed, providing the following recommendations are followed:
 Warm up the engine before placing it under load.
 Do not operate the engine at idle for prolonged periods.
 Use the appropriate transmission gear to prevent engine lugging.
 Observe vehicle oil pressure and tempera- ture indicators.
 Check the coolant and oil levels frequently.  Vary throttle position at highway speeds
when carrying or towing significant weight.
NOTE:
Light duty operation such as light trailer towing or no load operation will extend the time before the engine is at full efficiency. Reduced fuel economy and power may be seen at this time.
For additional vehicle break-in requirements

Then I find this little rid bit in the online version of the manual. Differs from the printed copy.
Controversy........guess I’m fine after all. LOL

Scott

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by SR71 Jet Mech

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS —
DIESEL ENGINE
The Cummins® Turbo Diesel engine does not require a break-in period due to its construction. Normal operation is allowed, providing the following recommendations are followed:
 Warm up the engine before placing it under load.
 Do not operate the engine at idle for prolonged periods.
 Use the appropriate transmission gear to prevent engine lugging.
 Observe vehicle oil pressure and tempera- ture indicators.
 Check the coolant and oil levels frequently.  Vary throttle position at highway speeds
when carrying or towing significant weight.
NOTE:
Light duty operation such as light trailer towing or no load operation will extend the time before the engine is at full efficiency. Reduced fuel economy and power may be seen at this time.
For additional vehicle break-in requirements

Then I find this little rid bit in the online version of the manual. Differs from the printed copy.
Controversy........guess I’m fine after all. LOL

Scott

I'd guess the Cummins is very much like the Ford diesel when it comes to those two "directionally opposite" statements I bolded....

On my truck, if I waited for it to warm up, on a cold day it would idle for at least an hour. So, it's impossible to "avoid prolonged idling" and "not place the engine under load until it's warmed up".... That's one of the "nice things" about a diesel. They use almost no fuel to idle, so it takes "forever" for the heat generated at idle to warm up the engine...

[travelin texans]

Both SMs where I bought both my GMC Duramax's said break it in like I intended to drive/use it, so I did, drove less than a 100 miles from the dealer, hooked up our 5th wheel, left town & towed 3-4 hours at 60-65 mph. Yep the owners manual had stipulations but I never had an issue with either truck, that wasn't a recall of some sort, in over 300k miles between them.

[jasin1]

If it was so important to break it in properly then they wouldn’t let people test drive them...I can walk into any dealer right now and test drive a new truck,corvette, or challenger hellcat...no one ever goes with me ..the dealer will sometimes let me take a vehicle home for the night...no one is taking it easy with the engines on test drives..they want to see what it will do ..even the lot guys run them hard. ...I did take it easy on mine but I’m not really sure it would have made a difference

[flybouy]

You're comparing apples to oranges. Service or owner's manual is for the owner and recomends the best practicies for a new vehichle. The dealer offers test drives to sell the vehichle. Sort of like asking a RV salesman if you have enough truck.

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by flybouy

You're comparing apples to oranges. Service or owner's manual is for the owner and recomends the best practicies for a new vehichle. The dealer offers test drives to sell the vehichle. Sort of like asking a RV salesman if you have enough truck.

Yeah I see your point BUT they still have to warranty it ...and I did follow the manual...I never like to buy a new vehicle that has more then a few miles on it

[travelin texans]

Your new rv also has warnings about not opening the slides til the rv is level &/or not moving it with the slides out, but go watch the dealership guy with the fork lift pick it up & never raise the landing gear or retract the slides & move it all around the lot. That guy moved ours out of the shop to the front of the PDI area with the front jacks extended, slides out while the SM & us were standing there watching, didn't hurt a thing.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Originally Posted by jasin1

If it was so important to break it in properly then they wouldn’t let people test drive them...I can walk into any dealer right now and test drive a new truck,corvette, or challenger hellcat...no one ever goes with me ..the dealer will sometimes let me take a vehicle home for the night...no one is taking it easy with the engines on test drives..they want to see what it will do ..even the lot guys run them hard. ...I did take it easy on mine but I’m not really sure it would have made a difference

I know when I test drove the few I did, I was pretty hard on them comparing throttle response and such with my 2500 and yes I’ve thought the same thing. Glad no one else test drove mine. Came from the rail yard in KC to dealer to me.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Both SMs where I bought both my GMC Duramax's said break it in like I intended to drive/use it, so I did, drove less than a 100 miles from the dealer, hooked up our 5th wheel, left town & towed 3-4 hours at 60-65 mph. Yep the owners manual had stipulations but I never had an issue with either truck, that wasn't a recall of some sort, in over 300k miles between them.

Yep I still personally believe in break it in as you’re going to drive it. I am however going to put the 500 on it.....then I’m hookin it up..

[SR71 Jet Mech]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'd guess the Cummins is very much like the Ford diesel when it comes to those two "directionally opposite" statements I bolded....

On my truck, if I waited for it to warm up, on a cold day it would idle for at least an hour. So, it's impossible to "avoid prolonged idling" and "not place the engine under load until it's warmed up".... That's one of the "nice things" about a diesel. They use almost no fuel to idle, so it takes "forever" for the heat generated at idle to warm up the engine...

Hey John I was really surprised at these new Rams. When we went down to “look” at a comparable it was 20 degrees out. It was 10 AM. We sat in that pickup with it idling for about 20 minutes. I then realized it was blowing really warm air and I was hot! Had to change the temp to like 68. Gauge said it was close to operating temp. Now, my 2500 if I had it warm from a good drive at the same outside temp all conditions being equal, the 2500, at idle would have cooled back down to cold. I was pretty amazed at how well these new ones warm at idle.

I would bet all 3 manufacturers are somewhat the same nowadays.

Even the manual says on a cold day to let it idle and warm up before driving and if you don’t “engine management “ will restrict how it’s able to be driven...”Hard”.

Scott

[jasin1]

[QUOTE=SR71 Jet Mech;437964]Hey John I was really surprised at these new Rams. When we went down to “look” at a comparable it was 20 degrees out. It was 10 AM. We sat in that pickup with it idling for about 20 minutes. I then realized it was blowing really warm air and I was hot! Had to change the temp to like 68. Gauge said it was close to operating temp. Now, my 2500 if I had it warm from a good drive at the same outside temp all conditions being equal, the 2500, at idle would have cooled back down to cold. I was pretty amazed at how well these new ones warm at idle.

I would bet all 3 manufacturers are somewhat the same nowadays.

Even the manual says on a cold day to let it idle and warm up before driving and if you don’t “engine management “ will restrict how it’s able to be driven...”Hard”.

Scott[/QUOTE
Did you get a winter grill cover with your truck?.. mine came with one but I haven’t used it...it blocks the front camera for one thing but also I have never used one on my other trucks

[sourdough]

Thanks guys. I have long struggled with the choice of going to a diesel to reap its benefits vs all the issues they present without lots of cost and "babying". This thread and most I read don't give ME a reason to think I need one as long as I stick within the restrictions that a gas engine presents....which I can.

[SR71 Jet Mech]

[QUOTE=jasin1;437976]

Originally Posted by SR71 Jet Mech

Hey John I was really surprised at these new Rams. When we went down to “look” at a comparable it was 20 degrees out. It was 10 AM. We sat in that pickup with it idling for about 20 minutes. I then realized it was blowing really warm air and I was hot! Had to change the temp to like 68. Gauge said it was close to operating temp. Now, my 2500 if I had it warm from a good drive at the same outside temp all conditions being equal, the 2500, at idle would have cooled back down to cold. I was pretty amazed at how well these new ones warm at idle.

I would bet all 3 manufacturers are somewhat the same nowadays.

Even the manual says on a cold day to let it idle and warm up before driving and if you don’t “engine management “ will restrict how it’s able to be driven...”Hard”.

Scott[/QUOTE
Did you get a winter grill cover with your truck?.. mine came with one but I haven’t used it...it blocks the front camera for one thing but also I have never used one on my other trucks

Yes I did. I watched a couple YouTube videos on it and it looks easy to install. Yep blocks the front cam. I’m gonna poke a hole and try and dress it so it doesn’t Frey. Warm enough now it won’t be needed until next year so I’ll forget until I need it. Looks like it may actually help cold weather fuel economy to have it on also. I rarely drive my pickup in the winter so I’m not sure how much testing I’ll get to do with it.

Yeah it was actually not recommended to use them on the older pickup due to lack of cooling for the trans. I never had one for my 2500

BTW......