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Old 10-27-2019, 11:57 AM   #41
Ahdmeyer
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Happened to my son's 2019 cougar, I talked to service man at dealer when I was there for another issue, there is a large black fuse in the panel. He had him replace that fuse with a regular. Fuse ,not sure exactly what caused the problem but it cured his issue with the furnace.
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Old 10-27-2019, 11:57 AM   #42
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These RV furnaces are just as complicated as our home units with all the safeties and such. Warranty work should be left to the manufacturers wishes. On the whole they are reliable and safe.
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Old 10-27-2019, 12:27 PM   #43
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More examples of why it’s so important for the RV owner to take the t8me t9 educate themselves about how the various components and systems in their RV function...

If a person is physically able and has basic skill sets with the amount of readily available information ... service manuals, Utube videos, forum help, etc one should be able to diagnose and repair most issues themselves...

Suburban and Atwood furnaces are relatively easy to troubleshoot and repair yourself if out of warranty..

At almost 66 I am still nimble enough to do all my repairs... I review the great suggestions folks post here that “have worked in the business” and fix things myself.

It’s what folks just have to do these days unless they have deeper pockets of money then I do...
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Old 10-27-2019, 12:27 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frosty46 View Post
These RV furnaces are just as complicated as our home units with all the safeties and such. Warranty work should be left to the manufacturers wishes. On the whole they are reliable and safe.
^^^^ agree !!! and I might add one more sentence: If you don't know what you're doing, changing things so the furnace will work around a safety device or a "interlock to prevent ignition" can easily make your furnace a "ticking time bomb" ready to explode at the most inopportune time.....

If you don't know what you're doing, it's better to leave the repairs to someone who does know what their doing..... That said, Not all the local RV dealerships "furnace repairmen" are qualified to work on an RV furnace, so you may be better equipped to troubleshoot it than the dealers "expert".....
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:24 PM   #45
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Can someone explain why there is so much heat “escaping” through the outside exhaust? An incredible amount of heat seems to be wasted through that outside vent.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:27 PM   #46
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Can someone explain why there is so much heat “escaping” through the outside exhaust? An incredible amount of heat seems to be wasted through that outside vent.
Because you don't want to be breathing carbon monoxide?

The direct products of combustion are hot, for sure, but they are also poisonous. The same reason you put a chimney on a woodstove instead of just letting it vent inside the house.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:34 PM   #47
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Yeah, I guess I should’ve known that one. I’m just not familiar with RV furnaces.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:06 PM   #48
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I am now reading about heat exchangers; what can I say I am a software engineer.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:11 PM   #49
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When you consider that the "best efficiency rating" of most RV furnaces is around 70% and the "installation misjudgements" are about 15%, about the best you can expect from most RV furnaces is around 50% of the energy in propane to be distributed as heat inside your RV. In other words, for every gallon of propane that contains around 92,000 BTU's of energy, around 46,000 BTU's are actually provided as heat in the cabin. When you factor in the battery power required to turn the squirrel cage blower, it's even less efficient..
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:31 PM   #50
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My furnace just quit working as well. The blower will kick on but I’m not hearing the burner start the heating process. The blower turns off about 1 minute later. 2019 cougar
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:54 PM   #51
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Can someone explain why there is so much heat “escaping” through the outside exhaust? An incredible amount of heat seems to be wasted through that outside vent.
If you have a gas or oil furnace at home it also exhausts a lot of heat. If you're home furnace is a "high efficiency unit that uses pvc pipe as a flue then that hot flue gas is mixed with combustion air to cool it before the blower sends it to the outside. The longer the run of the pipe the cooler it gets.
. You're RV furnace only has inches before it dumps out the side of your unit. Same applies to the hot water heater using LP gas.
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:21 AM   #52
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(snip)If you're home furnace is a "high efficiency unit that uses pvc pipe as a flue then that hot flue gas is mixed with combustion air to cool it (snip)
.

What is the difference between flue gas and combustion air?
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:08 AM   #53
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Combustion air is the air used to mix with the fuel to ignite and produce heat. By code it must come from outside of the living space.
Flue gas is the gases produced after combustion of the fuel and air and must be vented outside as it contains several deadly gases depending upon the fuel being burned and the efficiency and treatment if any of the gases after combustion.
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:00 AM   #54
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Replace the sail switch. You should be able to access it from the outside furnace cover. It might just be mucked up with construction debris from Keystones high quality control standards.
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:26 AM   #55
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Replace the sail switch. You should be able to access it from the outside furnace cover. It might just be mucked up with construction debris from Keystones high quality control standards.
I had no idea. Mine was mucked up, and my dealer's service department extracted the entire heater assembly out from under the refrigerator, and ate up four weeks in the process.
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:34 PM   #56
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I had no idea. Mine was mucked up, and my dealer's service department extracted the entire heater assembly out from under the refrigerator, and ate up four weeks in the process.
Some furnaces have an outside access door, some don't. If all you have on the exterior of your RV is a "dual port" furnace vent, then the only way to access your sail switch is from the inside. That typically means pulling the furnace out of the mounting spot and either working on it in the middle of the RV floor or taking it to the workbench to disassemble it so you can get to the sail switch.

As for 4 weeks at the dealership to replace the sail switch. Many members here report 4 weeks to check a faucet leak, 4 weeks to replace a light bulb or 4 weeks to install a replacement venetian blind, so with many dealerships, 4 weeks is a typical "service interval"....

On the other hand, there are some dealerships that can replace a rooftop A/C unit while you wait, "don't unhook, we'll get right on it".... So.... Dealer selection is (or should be) a deciding factor along with purchase price and proximity to the storage yard....
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:38 PM   #57
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The way it was explained to me, the bulk of those four weeks is spent waiting for Keystone to approve the work being done under warranty -- only after which they can they order the replacement equipment and wait for it to arrive to start the work. Now that my warranty is up, let's see if they've been telling me the truth.
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:25 PM   #58
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The way it was explained to me, the bulk of those four weeks is spent waiting for Keystone to approve the work being done under warranty -- only after which they can they order the replacement equipment and wait for it to arrive to start the work. Now that my warranty is up, let's see if they've been telling me the truth.
My guess: It'll take 3 weeks and 6 days now that the warranty is no longer "the holdup"
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:54 AM   #59
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I've spent a lot of time waiting in Orthopedic and Neurosurgeons offices well past my appointment time. I didn't know my neck and shoulder was still in warranty!
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Old 10-29-2019, 05:39 AM   #60
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Our furnace wouldn't fire on our brand new unit. Sail switch was mucked up with sawdust/construction dust. Cleaned it and she's been working fine now for 2 years.
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