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Old 07-13-2014, 06:23 PM   #1
Rick G
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Loose Equipment

I'm hoping someone can offer some insight as to which hitch I should purchase or offer ideas as to why my current hitch hardware continues to loosen.

Oct '12 we purchased a 2006 KZ JAG JB29 from a private individual and a e2 1,000 lb. round bar hitch from a dealer, which they installed. The KZ had a dry weight of 5,000 lbs and was approximately 30' long. The mounting brackets on the frame and "L" brackets loosened during every trip.

Oct '13 we purchased a 2014 Outback 298RE, which is 35' long, has a dry tongue weight of 925 lbs, and overall weight of 7,605 lbs. The dealer switched the hitch and told us the current e2 hitch would work fine, we informed them of the previous problems, they said the hitch wasn't installed properly from the previous dealer. We traveled about 100 miles home and again the mounting brackets on the frame moved as did the "L" brackets, everything was loose. I tightened everything again for the next trip, same thing upon arrival of destination, this has happened every time we pulled (6 times). I contacted the manufacturer, Fastway/Progress Mfg they said hitch was big enough and recommended Equalizer. The Equalizer uses the same type of mounting brackets so I'm really hesitant to purchase the type of brackets. Any ideas?

I looked at the Reese/Drawtite 1,200 and 1,400 lbs hitches, but they have bolt on cams for sway control and I'm concerned that drilling into the TT frame will void the warranty. Ideas?
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:43 PM   #2
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I my opinion if the bolts have been tightened and loosened that many times they are stretched and should be replaced. Get new nuts, bolts and lock washers of the proper grade (most likely grade 8 check with hitch mfg.) and tighten them to the correct torque for that grade of bolt. They should not loosen. JM2˘, Hank
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:54 PM   #3
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Loose Equipment

After re-reading my message after I had already sent it I noticed that I had written that Fastway/Progress Mfg said it (the hitch) was a big enough, I should have wrote "they said it wasn't big enough" and I should purchase the 1,200 lb or 1,400 lb Equalizer. I'm afraid that the bolts and nuts will loosen just the same with the Equalizer since its the same type of equipment. Fastway did provide a new "L" bracket with bolts for one side because I twisted of the 1/2" bolt trying to tighten it.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:29 PM   #4
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I have the pro series WD hitch and drilled 4 holes thru the frame to hold on the snap up bracket and left the set screws on them, now nothing there will get loose. My brackets had the holes in them for drilling thru the frame. I doubt that they would come off but, looking at them I could see that they might slide with enough pressure caused by sway or panic stop. Did I void a warrenty, who knows, I do not care about that.
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:18 AM   #5
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I have been using the Equal-i-zer 10k & 14k for 12 years and never had a L bracket loosen up. It's a very simple system, properly I stalled it should work great for years.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:20 AM   #6
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Loose Equipment

Thank you all for the input. Hank, I'll be buying new equipment probably 14K so all hardware will be new. I'll be buying a new receiver too since my current one is rated at 1,000/10,000. As for the Pro series from Reese, is that type of hitch difficult to hook up meaning do you have to have everything lined-up when straight-on when hitching, others have mentioned difficulties when hitching if not in a straight line.
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick G View Post
Thank you all for the input. Hank, I'll be buying new equipment probably 14K so all hardware will be new. I'll be buying a new receiver too since my current one is rated at 1,000/10,000. As for the Pro series from Reese, is that type of hitch difficult to hook up meaning do you have to have everything lined-up when straight-on when hitching, others have mentioned difficulties when hitching if not in a straight line.
Rick, I haven't owned a TT in about 20 years, so what I know about towing them is lost somewhere in the deep recesses of my brain. You don't give any info on your TV but the ratings you are giving may be for without weight distribution hitch. The receiver you have may be sufficient when using WDH. Like I said, my knowledge on this is a little rusty so hopefully some TT owners can give better advice. Good luck, your concerns about safety have you on the right track but a dealers advice can be biased by greed and it is hard to find one you can trust. JM2˘, Hank
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:42 AM   #8
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Thanks Hank, my TV is a 2004 Dodge 3500 dually, 5.9 HO diesel, Quad Cab, 8' bed.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:16 AM   #9
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From Dodge truck builder website for '04 3500:

The recommended tongue weight is between 10 percent and 15 percent of the gross trailer weight. However, the maximum tongue weight on Class III (the bumper ball) is limited to 500 pounds, and Class IV (the receiver hitch) to 1,200 pounds. Additionally, the GAWRs and GVWRs should never be exceeded.


That is with WDH. Not sure if that helps?????
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Old 07-14-2014, 02:39 PM   #10
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Thanks Hank, I really appreciate the help. I recently bought the TV (3/1/14) just to tow the TT and because it had the HO diesel with only 41,500 actual miles on it.

A couple weeks ago I went by the local Dodge dealer and asked if they could tell from the VIN what the trk had in terms of receiver capability, they said the VIN wouldn't identify the hitch, but they were able to print a copy of the window sticker components from back then and it showed the hitch rating at 1,000/10,000.

The gross front axle weight rating of my TV is 4,740 lbs and the GAWR of the rear axle is 9,350 lbs with the overall Gross Vehicle Weight Rating at 11,500 lbs.

I attached a pic of the specs for my TT, it shows the tongue weight at 925 lbs and the weight of the TT itself at 7,605 lbs along with a carrying capacity of 1,395 lbs. Based on the calculations if I'm calculating correctly the tongue weight dry is 12% of the overall trailer weight. I was then considering the propane, battery, hitch and cargo which adds 390 lbs to the 925 this equals 1,315 lbs or 17% of the overall TT weight.

I wonder, should I be considering the empty TT weight plus carrying capacity then divide by the tongue weight; if so, this looks much better at 15%.
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Old 07-14-2014, 03:21 PM   #11
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We have used the equalizer hitch for two years. No issue with the L brackets moving or becoming loose.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:51 PM   #12
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Thanks for the reply, it's great to hear that your equipment hasn't loosened.

Maybe it's just what Hank mentioned in the beginning threads, once the nuts and bolts are tightened so many times they need to be replaced. Last fall I began towing the TT with my 2007 Ram 1500 4 X 4, it was hard on it especially since its towing capacity was rated at 8,200#'s, we had a considerable amount of sway even with the e2 round bar hitch in place so maybe I weakened the equipment.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick G View Post
Thank you all for the input. Hank, I'll be buying new equipment probably 14K so all hardware will be new. I'll be buying a new receiver too since my current one is rated at 1,000/10,000. As for the Pro series from Reese, is that type of hitch difficult to hook up meaning do you have to have everything lined-up when straight-on when hitching, others have mentioned difficulties when hitching if not in a straight line.
Sounds like you have sorted out.
The Reese DCSC setup does NOT require you to hitch up straight on. It's a little easier, but not much different. It also takes some careful calculation and setup to ensure it's 100% perfect, but is a great system once you have it dialed in.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:17 PM   #14
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Hi Audio1der, thanks for trying to help me out, but just yesterday I ordered a Class V receiver and today a 14K Equalizer hitch; I'm going to give Progress Mfg another try. I really was considering buying the Reese DCSC but I was concerned about mounting the sway control brackets to the frame. I had contacted Keystone RV about 2 months ago and asked about drilling holes in the frame for mounting brackets or welding a bracket to the frame, they told me it would compromise the warranty so I felt that I had no other option other than a bolt on system (Equalizer). Again thanks
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:24 PM   #15
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The dealer drilled 6 holes into my frame to mount the anti sway bar mount. Keystone drilled afew in it to where the e braker controller is and some wires. So I guess keystone, the dealer and myself may have voided the warrenty on the lippert frame? Might need a lawyer to figure it out.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:25 AM   #16
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I guess there isn't a problem unless there's a failure of the equipment, then it will need to be sorted out.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:19 AM   #17
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I've never heard of anyone having a warranty issue refused for "properly installing a safe/adequate hitch assembly" to their RV. It's pretty much an understood that you can't "push the darn thing" so a hitch is a requirement.

Now, if there were an issue caused by the drilled holes, that might well be something to take up with the installer, not with Keystone.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:50 AM   #18
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I understand, but our Keystone TT dealer here in Illinois where we bought trlr at said that we would void the warranty on the frame if we drilled holes in it, even for sway or WD brackets. I thought well I can't pull a 35' trlr without sway control so we had to go with bolt on equipment.

All this communication started because the e2 SC WD hitch that we had on a previous TT the nuts and bolts loosened during every trip. When we bought the Outback the dealer switched the e2 to the new TT, we told them about the loosening problems they said the previous dealer didn't install properly. We pulled new TT home (100 miles) and when we got home all hardware was loose again. We called dealer about problem and asked if they could fasten brackets to frame by weld or drill and bolt, they said no because it would void warranty on frame.

After I posted this morning I called Keystone tech and specs support and asked again about drill and bolt of SC, they said the frame warranty is 2 years so if brackets are drilled and bolted on then I void the frame warranty. Since I don't have $37K to throw out the window for a new TT if the frame fails after a dealer or I drilled it I'll have to stay with bolt around frame brackets. Folks may think I'm nuts, maybe call Keystone RV's 800# and confirm because I'm tired of dealing with loose equipment after every trip.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:12 PM   #19
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I believe the brackets could come off or slide, not saying they will, just could and in my case they are made to bolt on. During a violent incident like jack knife, panic stop, sway or just get loose and slide. If they slide or come off at that time would that add to the loss of control of the TV etc. I think it would. So welding or bolting would prevent that. I think the good news is keystone and the dealer in this case is telling you not to weld or drill. If they do fail and I hope they do not, you might have a strong case against them if bolting or welding would not have allowed a failure.
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:10 AM   #20
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Thanks Ken for the input, we were looking at 5th wheels because we're so tired of messing with the brackets. We decided to give the bolt around brackets one more try because we really like our TT, it works great for us (wife and pups). If the new Equalizer brackets loosen we'll be moving to a 5th wheel.
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