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04-11-2021, 10:22 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Northglenn
Posts: 13
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valve seal replacement outback 210URS
I need to replace the seals in the black and grey valves. After opening up the underbelly, and pulling the foam away, I see there is no slack in the 3 inch ABS available to create the gap needed for pulling and reinstalling the valve. The tanks appear to be glued or sealed to the pipe, along with hose clamps, so I don't think I want to break that seal. Moving a tan back an inch doesn't seem viable. There is about 3.5 inches of pipe on the gray side, and I see that Valterra sells a 3 inch short rubber coupler, so I would be cutting out however much pipe the rubber coupler allows. Is this the typical solution, or are there other options? Any help would be appreciated!
Phil
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04-11-2021, 12:28 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plgamble
I need to replace the seals in the black and grey valves. After opening up the underbelly, and pulling the foam away, I see there is no slack in the 3 inch ABS available to create the gap needed for pulling and reinstalling the valve. The tanks appear to be glued or sealed to the pipe, along with hose clamps, so I don't think I want to break that seal. Moving a tan back an inch doesn't seem viable. There is about 3.5 inches of pipe on the gray side, and I see that Valterra sells a 3 inch short rubber coupler, so I would be cutting out however much pipe the rubber coupler allows. Is this the typical solution, or are there other options? Any help would be appreciated!
Phil
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You do not have to replace the entire valve. There's 4 bolts that sandwich the valve in the middle, remove the bolts, spread the halves a bit & pull the gate valve out. Replace seals, spread the halves & put the gate valve back in. Be sure to lube up the seals & gate with some silicone grease before reassembly.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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04-11-2021, 12:35 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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Danny is right. Only thing I will add is get the right seals. There are 3 choices, Valterra, Valterra BladeX and Bristol.
BladeX will fit either Valterra valve, Bristol requires Bristol seals.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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04-11-2021, 02:01 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Northglenn
Posts: 13
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valve seals
Thanks, guys, I have the correct seals for the Valterra valve. The problem is that there is no spreading available, I have the 4 bolts out, and the valve will spin. If I have to pry to get the valve out, then there is no way to get it back in with the new seals projecting out a little on both sides. There is about 3+ inches of pipe between fittings on the grey side. Is there any problem with cutting out 1 inch of pipe, and using a rubber coupler? Then, every time I replace the seals, I can pick up the needed gap by simply loosening the coupler??? Something like: Valterra F02-2103 Flexible Coupler - 3", except preferably without the stop in the center?? Thanks again for the help!
Phil
Ex-Texan, Richardson and Houston
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04-11-2021, 03:39 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,353
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I have used my feet, and on occasion 2 people, but I have only had to cut once on a Class C years ago. It might surprise you how much wiggle room there is if you really pry v
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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