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Old 09-18-2013, 07:39 AM   #1
billb800si
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Winterize new 321RES ??

Remember hearing something about when winterizing a Cougar HC 321RES that there's only one valve by the hot water tank?? (Not 3 as normal!!)
Also where is the anti freeze intake tube for the water pump located?

Any advice will be appreciated.
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Old 09-18-2013, 12:38 PM   #2
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Yes one handle to bypass the HWH. It will turn only one way so it should turn opposite of the way it now. And then pump your pink stuff into the system. My pump was in the midle of the camper behind the bulk head wall panel. I had to remove around 8-10 screws to access it. I have since got one the brass valves and installed it closer to the HWH so I can access the water pump and HWH at the same time and I dont have to remove that panel anymore.

randy
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Old 09-18-2013, 02:05 PM   #3
billb800si
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdr1 View Post
Yes one handle to bypass the HWH. It will turn only one way so it should turn opposite of the way it now. And then pump your pink stuff into the system. My pump was in the midle of the camper behind the bulk head wall panel. I had to remove around 8-10 screws to access it. I have since got one the brass valves and installed it closer to the HWH so I can access the water pump and HWH at the same time and I dont have to remove that panel anymore. randy
=========================

Thanks for the info.
My unit has the water pump under the bathroom sink. Right after I bought this unit I removed the panel that was under the sink so I could store more "stuff" there. Had a heck of a time removing it. Now it's stored in the garage. I just can't figure out how the HTH can be bypassed with just 1 valve??
My older 2007 Jayco had a hot- cold and by pass valves on it. Tomorrow I'll bring the trailer home and take a closer look. I'll be winterizing after next week's trip up North and then again in March when we return from Florida. I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before freezing weather sets in.
My HTH tank is under the kitchen counter next to the outside wall. There I have to remove 4 (or 6 ) screws to remove the large panel. The furnace is located there to so I'll look close at all the fittings.
Thanks again,
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:53 PM   #4
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Well looked over all the water fittings. One valve in the whole trailer at the hot water tank.
Looks like I will need to buy & install a water by pass kit ( as explained on page 55 of the manual). Also will need a "suction by pass kit" and install it on the suction side of the water pump.
Geez, my prior Jayco had all this stuff originally in the trailer. Used to take me a whole 20 minutes to "winterize" my trailer. Now I have panels to remove to access the water pump and another panel to remove to access the hot water tank. Mickey Mouse set up !!!!!

Off to the dealer to buy some by pass kits.....
Happy trails,
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:28 PM   #5
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Pay attention to which pump you have. I don't think the kits that CW sells will work with a flowjet pump. The flowjet has a release button and a push in adapter. No threaded connections. If you have a flowjet you need an adapter and a piece of hose to connect to the pump suction. Suck in the pink stuff there.

Have not tried to figure out the one valve HWH bypass. I think it works with a couple of check valves. When it stops working, I will add a couple of valves.

Also take the manual with skepticism. They are one size fits all manuals.
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:28 AM   #6
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Success!!!
Keystone was ingenious with their one by pass valve (by the hot water tank).
The by pass valve is actually a three way valve that directs the cold water line to either the cold water intake ( on HW tank) or to a TEE (that connects to the hot water line coming out of the tank). The ingenious part is one side of the TEE goes back to the hot water tank BUT at that connection it's a one way check valve. The check valve allows hot water to exit the hot water tank but blocks water from entering at that point.
So, when one turns the 3 way by pass valve you then are connecting the cold water line to the hot water feed line.
Then- after you have drained your hot water tank (removed outside plug) and drained your fresh water holding tank you're ready to winterize.
Pour your antifreeze into your fresh water holding tank (don't forget to turn off the drain valve there) and finally proceed to turn on the trailer water pump. Go to all the hot & cold outlets and turn them on (one at a time) until the pink stuff comes out.
One final note: A anti-freeze hand pump or air compressor will be needed to purge the "black tank flush" system (line down to the tank).
This really is a simple way to winterize after all.

Now to the hardware store to buy a plastic valve to insert where the hot water tank plug went in. Must be plastic because the tank is aluminum and a brass valve would corrode. It's difficult removing that plug( tight spot). A valve will allow me to drain the hot water tank with just a twist of the knob.
Life is good.
Going camping Sunday in Northern Michigan!!!
Happy trails,
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Old 09-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #7
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Is your hot water tank drain also not an anode? I wouldn't replace mine as I want the protection the anode gives.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:20 AM   #8
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if you have an anode you SHOULD replace it. That's the whole point. The anode wears down instead of the inside of your tank, so you replace it and it's able to do its job. The plug for the water heater is attached (its all one piece) so you buy the new plug/anode piece and put that in in place of the old one. Easy. When we bought our new one I thought it was the wrong one because it looked so different from the one we took out (the rod was a lot bigger) and then we realized when we compared the new one to the old one that the old one had been completely eaten up. That was with one summer's use. So we'll be replacing it annually for sure.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #9
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x2 If you don't remove and check the anode for corrosion and replace it if necessary, you could be looking at replacing the HW tank. The anode is sacrificial and is not meant to be a permanent fixture.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #10
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and then we realized when we compared the new one to the old one that the old one had been completely eaten up. That was with one summer's use. So we'll be replacing it annually for sure.
parkgirl
Where are you going that you kill an anode in a year? Mine is about 3/4's still there after three years. Is it the water that kills it or something not hooked up right.

One a year seems really excessive to me.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:46 AM   #11
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Typically, anodes will corrode at different rates depending upon:
1) the acidity and quality of the water and this varies from region to region.
2) the type of anode. Magnesium, for example, corrodes faster than aluminium or other types of anodes.
3) the frequency of use of the HW tank and the water temperature. The more often it is used the faster it will corrode.
4) whether or not water softeners are being used. They tend to speed up the process since they contain salt.

I can't see any reason why the anode would be not be hooked up right. You simply screw it in - there's really nothing to hook up or connect. Some claim that the use of Teflon tape cuts down on the reaction but tests have shown that it takes place regardless if pipe tape is used or not. I'd recommend using Teflon tape because it makes for easier removal and helps make a better seal.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:18 AM   #12
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Festus2, when you talk about pipe wrap do you mean teflon tape over the screw portion of the drain plug? We do use teflon tape on ours.

Also, GMcKenzie, we are parked for the entire season in the same park in northern Ontario where the water is high in minerals. We use the trailer a lot in the six month period when the park is open so I'm not surprised at the anode corrosion. Just happy it's doing its job.
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:31 AM   #13
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parkgirl -
Yes, I should have said Teflon tape - not pipe wrap. My mistake - thanks for pointing it out. I'll fix it up.
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Old 10-12-2013, 07:06 AM   #14
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Winerizing

I used to winterize our camper years back, then we bought our first 5ver and had been letting the dealer do it for me along with an overall safety inspection (about $50 total). We bought our new 2014 327 RES recently and its only been out once. It would be more convenient doing it myself. (We do get fairly good winters here in Central Oregon.) However I don't want to take it out of storage in the spring and find out I missed something. Are there good step by step instructions somewhere (particular to this model)?
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:06 AM   #15
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Povo,

If you do a forum search you'll find tips, suggestions, checklists, links to Keystone videos, links to "outside" videos, personal experiences and a host of other advice on how to winterize your RV. There is nothing "special" that you'd need to do to a 327RES that's different from anything else on the market.

The search feature is found in the blue bar at the top of every forum webpage. Try there, see how well your questions are answered and if you still have problems or questions, post those specific areas and I'm sure someone can guide you to the right answer.

Good Luck,
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #16
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Don't forget to make sure the anti-freeze goes thru the tube supplying water to the toilet flush valve.

just sayin'
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