What is going on with my exterior finish?

[kiwi2000]

I have a now 4 year old Montana that we purchased new. I have tried to be diligent with maintenance of the exterior including regular roof conditioning and using RV gel gloss wash and wax, http://www.dyersonline.com/gel-gloss...wax-1-gal.html on the fibreglass exterior.

I started to notice last season that the white fibreglass finish was not even any longer. Under the windows, around the vents, under the exterior lights were what looked like drip marks except that where these "drip marks" were the finish was noticeably brighter and shinier compared to the rest of the trailer finish.

By comparison the rest of the finish looked cloudy compared to the places where water runs down.

Is there anything I can do to achieve a more uniform look to the exterior finish?
I like the look of the shine instead of the cloudy finish.

[chuckster57]

Your link shows a all in one product. I have found over the years that they don't protect as good as a separate wash and wax. At this point you may need to use a product to restore the finish and then apply a good wax.
On my old Jayco I used Flitz polish and then Nu Finish wax. It was 11 years old and looked brand new. I'm sure others will post their choice for restoring the shine and their product choice will probably work just as good.

[kiwi2000]

Yes I was considering that the all in one product might be the culprit.
I have a question in to Gel Gloss on that subject

How do you apply the product?

Do you apply by hand with an applicator then buff with a cloth or do you use some sort of mechanical application and buffing?

[JRTJH]

When reading your post, I noticed that you stated "regular roof conditioning" as a part of your maintenance actions. Many times, when "cleaning and conditioning" the roof, the chemicals used "up there" run down the sides of the RV. Depending on how rapidly you clean them off the sides, they may be at least a part of your problem. Often, the water collected on the roof spills over the sides of the small "drip rail" around the roof and flows down the sides of the RV. When it does, it usually will run to the sides of lights or windows and then run down the rest of the trailer side along the edges of flat projections or accumulate along the center of round objects.

You say that your RV is "shinier" in these spots which leads me to think you aren't rinsing the sides well enough and those "conditioners" are working to keep the "drip pathways" better protected than the rest of the trailer sidewalls.

I'm not sure how you wash your trailer, but when working on the roof, I always wet down the sidewalls and then do the roof, followed by doing the sides (always starting at the bottom and working up). That way, the roof runoff doesn't sit on the dry sidewalls and the top parts of the sidewalls aren't allowed to sit and dry with the soap on them while I work on the lower parts. By starting at the bottom, the entire side remains "wet" while I work the brush higher and higher.

Once you do get your RV "re-shined", you might want to look at "why" it happened. You may be your own "worst enemy" in this situation.

I'm not placing blame, just offering a potential for "why" based on my own experiences with previous RV's.

Good Luck.

[kiwi2000]

Once you do get your RV "re-shined", you might want to look at "why" it happened. You may be your own "worst enemy" in this situation.

No blame at all that is why I posted to try to get to the bottom of this issue. If I am to blame well there you go. I have managed to keep a car immaculately detailed these many years but this is my first trailer. Possibly the steps involved in maintaining a vehicle are quite different than with a trailer.

I'm not sure how you wash your trailer, but when working on the roof, I always wet down the sidewalls and then do the roof, followed by doing the sides (always starting at the bottom and working up). That way, the roof runoff doesn't sit on the dry sidewalls and the top parts of the sidewalls aren't allowed to sit and dry with the soap on them while I work on the lower parts. By starting at the bottom, the entire side remains "wet" while I work the brush higher and higher.

My neighbor suggested I try to keep the sides wet as I was applying conditioner to the roof, a difficult maneuver and possibly unnecessary as well. But that keeps in line with your suggestion my problem might have something to do with the combination of the roof conditioner application in conjunction with a sub par application of the wash and wax product.

How to fix it though?
It is an awfully large item to apply polish by hand to take off the haze and buff.

[chuckster57]

It is an awfully large item to apply polish by hand to take off the haze and buff.

Sure is! But I have been doing like that for 20+ yrs now. I do use an electric random orbital polisher with lambswool covers. My current rig is 30' 11" overall and last weekend I spent a total of 4 hours waxing for a trip to the coast.

After the initial investment of time effort and material, the next time should be a little less time and a little less material.

[Desert185]

kiwi2000:

Once you do an initial polish with a substantial product doing it a second time around is much easier. I use this on everything I have, and they used to advertise that Air Force 1 used it. Its a polish that is easy to apply and rub off with a micro fiber or terry cloth towel. Removing bugs after application can be done easily with a wet cloth, and it lasts longer than anything else I have used, including Nufinish.

Aluminum, paint, plastic, Lexan...whatever. Removes chalky finish and has a UV protectant.

Top Gun Ultra Finish: Spruce P/N 09-00192

www.aircraftspruce.com

[GmaPaTime]

I have a question related to this subject. How long after delivery of a new trailer, being just built, should I wait (or can wait) to apply wax and roof conditioner? I'll be taking delivery in the next couple of weeks so it won't be long before it is stored for the winter and was wondering if this task will need to be done near term or not.

[Festus2]

If it were me, I'd wash and wax it now rather than later. I don't know what, if anything, they do in the way of washing or waxing when it leaves the plant so it probably has a film of dust on it and that is before it hits the road for transport. I would think that the dealer would at least give it a good wash when he does his PDI. By the time it gets to you, it most likely has never seen a bottle of wax.

I don't use roof conditioner but someone who does might chime in and give you their take on when to apply it.

[chuckster57]

I picked mine up on a rainy Thursday, washed and waxed on that sunny Saturday. Did my roof about 6 months ago, and put another "wax" product on last week. Supposed to last 5 years so I will most likely not wax for a year.
I never "treated" my roof on my Jayco, and besides the normal spots, it was still intact and pliable after 13 1/2 yrs. I did clean my trailer every 6 months with a good car wash. I am blessed with a big fenced side yard so I can do my upkeep on a more than needed basis.
Trick is to be PRO active. When I sold my Jayco, the young couple that bought it to live in couldn't believe it was 13+ yrs old.

As a note: drivers are required to wash the unit when delivered from the factory, and the dealership fills out a form detailing any damage.

[GmaPaTime]

Thank you for the input. I'm big on proventative maintenance, so the waxing will be done shortly before storing. I didn't know if fiberglass was like new automobles finishes that you should wait a few months before putting any wax on it.
Washings it is not a big deal, as it will be done often and what John says on how to do it seems the best approach. The roof treatment I wait and see.

[chuckster57]

Unless your RV is getting a "full body paint", it's ready for wax as soon as it leaves the factory.

[therink]

I recommend washing and hand apply for polish to all surfaces (except roof) right away. It will be protected and a heck of a lot easier to keep clean with a coat of polish on it.
I use NuFinish and have been for years.
As far as the roof, I don't use conditioners and don't believe that they are necessary. I just make a point to wash it regularly using a mild detergent (sometimes with a little bleach I'm the solution to kill the mildew) and keep it clean. I wash the roof the same time iI am washing the ssides and use plenty of water so any cleaners been used on the roof, don't stain the sides.
I use a soft deck brush on a painters pole for everything.
Not saying my way is right, but my rig always looks good.

[kiwi2000]

Posters are stating to apply "wax" to the fibreglass yet both products recommended in this link go out of their way to state that they contain no wax.
Top gun and Nu Finish both state they contain no wax.

I suppose they are referring to the act of application of product as "wax" and not a wax product itself.

How much of that stuff would I require? The top gun comes in a 19 oz. bottle and I suppose the Nu finish would be available in a similar size.

So up and down a ladder? Yikes!

[Desert185]

I would buy two bottles, just in case. The Nu Finish applies like Top Gun, but I don't remember the Nu Finish bottle size. Top Gun goes a long way.

[chuckster57]

Nu Finish comes in a 16oz bottle. While it contains no "wax", most people understand waxing a vehicle so I used the term in that way.

[kiwi2000]

one 16 oz bottle for your rig?

[chuckster57]

my initial treatment, I used the paste in a can. It took the entire can because I put it on heavy even if it didn't say to do it that way.

Last weekend, I used a product from work that is supposed to be good for 5 years, and it took one 12oz bottle.

[kiwi2000]

thanks all for the responses.
I will post next spring.

[smokeater]

I also use the same Gel Gloss and find it incredibly easy to use. I wash my unit first and then use the gel gloss. I had a Surveyor for 4 years and when I traded it, it looked as new, it resold in 3 hours.......I now have a 2014 Premier and used it once so far. I think the product is awesome....fwiw