no heat in front bedroom

dieselsmoke · 09-15-2014, 05:23 PM

So my 2014 Hideout 5th wheel has no heat in the master bedroom. I was just wondering if many 5th wheels don't have heat in the bedroom or someone, somewhere decided that this was not necessary. Lets not be confused, its not like its there but doesn't work or work well. It doesn't exist. The furnace is ducted through the floor on the main body and has one flex pipe that goes to the bathroom but no heat vent for the bedroom. The floorplan is 298bhds and its a 2014. Maybe it wont be a big deal but seems kinda silly. Any ideas

**JRTJH** · 09-15-2014, 06:07 PM

Our Springdale 242 didn't have heat registers on the upper level either. This is just "speculation" but I'm guessing that the reason there no heat in the upper level is a cost saving measure. Both the Springdale and the Hideout are Keystone's "entry level fifth wheel lines" so it may be a common thread that neither has heat "up top".....

dieselsmoke · 09-15-2014, 06:30 PM

You must be correct because I cant think of any reason to skip something so simple. The furnace is literally 3 feet away from the bedroom wall so it would have been simple to do. The basement is directly under the bed and could easily have had a small duct ran through it. Thanks

**JRTJH** · 09-15-2014, 06:53 PM

Same with our Springdale. The furnace sat adjacent to the bathroom and they shared a common wall. There was no heat in the bathroom. I cut a 4" hole behind the toilet, installed a round heat duct and cut a spare piece of the "too long and curled up" aluminized heat ducting from another heat run and installed it to my new duct. Total cost, an hour of time, a $4 round heat duct. It sure made the bathroom warmer.

With our Springdale, we really didn't do a lot of "cold" or even "cool" camping, so with the bedroom directly open to the main cabin, we didn't miss the heat that much. But with your floorplan, trying to get heat down that long hallway on a chilly morning could be a hassle. Maybe a "built in" electric wall heater installed on the common wall with the bathroom? I don't think there's much of a way to install ducting in the basement storage and keep it insulated so the air is still warm when it reaches the bedroom.....

ADDED: On looking closer at your floorplan, it seems your furnace is in the rear part of the basement, almost under the shower. If so, you might be able to add a 4" round duct, route it through the basement, up into the bathroom behind the toilet and route it from there through the bathroom/bedroom common wall and into the bedroom at the foot of the bed (beside the closet). It may be a "hassle" to do it, but if you're planning to do any cold weather camping, it might be a benefit. Check your furnace plenm and see if there's an extra cutout that isn't being used. If so, you can connect the new duct directly to that and go for it.

Richard6959 · 09-15-2014, 07:20 PM

Someone at Keystone forgot to include a heat duct in the bunkhouse of our Laredo. It was a new floor plan for 2014. The 2015's have it.

Sometimes I wonder if any of the engineers that design these rigs have ever owned one.

bsmith0404 · 09-16-2014, 05:13 AM

I've never owned a unit without bedroom heat, but our Jayco had the 4" hose (same as dryer vent stuff) run through the basement storage for the bedroom. Never had an issue keeping it warm before it got to the bedroom, but I ripped it more than once while loading and unloading gear from the basement. I hated that damn hose. Our alpine has nice ductwork running, so much better

**JRTJH** · 09-16-2014, 05:24 AM

Our Cougar has a duct panel about 2" thick and 24" wide that's mounted under the bathroom floor (on the roof of the front pass-through). The supply end is attached to a 4" round supply hose from the furnace and the bathroom/bedroom floor registers are mounted to the other end of that square duct panel. It makes for a nice warm bathroom floor, helps heat the pass-through and also supplies heat for the upstairs rooms. It's a pretty neat setup.

dieselsmoke · 09-16-2014, 06:26 AM

Thanks for your comments You are correct the furnace is under the shower. So I found an access panel under the stairs so I can see in there but could not really work in there. I found another access panel to the left of the entertainment system if you look towards the front of the camper where I can also see but could never work in. I guess I would have to remove the panel in the basement and work through there. I think ill see if its an issue before I take on this project as I can see this is gonna be a pain. The water pump is under there too in a position you could never get to without going through the basement wall. Another bad idea in my opinion. Hopefully the heat and the water pump don't have any problems.

**JRTJH** · 09-16-2014, 06:37 AM

Your water pump location will "soon be a situation" when you get ready to winterize. You're going to need to access the pump to put antifreeze in your lines. I'd start thinking about how you're going to do that now (in case you need dealer help) rather than waiting until the evening before the first hard freeze to get ready to winterize.

I'm sure there's a "work around" built into the pump location, but you may have to improvise to access it.

Festus2 · 09-16-2014, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselsmoke

The water pump is under there too in a position you could never get to without going through the basement wall. Another bad idea in my opinion. Hopefully the heat and the water pump don't have any problems.

As JRTJH pointed out in his post, having access to your water pump is pretty much essential. Water pumps are usually quite reliable but they can develop leaks - not only within the pump itself but at the hose connections going into and out of it.

In addition, sometimes the rigid water lines at the pump rest against a wall or partition and cause an excessive , vibrating noise when the pump is turned on. To dampen the noise, you need to get to the pump and carry out a couple of modifications.

As suggested, I'd make plans now so that you can gain access to the pump without having to dismantle your RV.

dieselsmoke · 09-16-2014, 07:31 AM

In the access panel by the entertainment center there is access to a fitting where I can attach a short piece of hose that can then pull antifreeze into the system through the pump. Under the stairs I can access the bypass valve on the hot water heater. Without actually getting to the pump itself. I was hoping that was sufficient but now you got me thinking that what I was planning isn't good enough. Why do I need to get to the pump for winterizing? I can see maintenance or noise issues as mentioned but to draw antifreeze through the system I can just do it at the access panel correct.?

**JRTJH** · 09-16-2014, 07:52 AM

Usually the fitting to draw antifreeze into the system is "at the pump" which pretty much mandates having access to the pump during winterizing. If your system has a "remotely located" winterizing valve, then you really shouldn't need access to the pump's location to winterize. Others (me included) must access our pump to attach the antifreeze hose.

You may be "fortunate" enough not to have to crawl inside/stand on your head/hold your breath/say "the words" softly so you don't get in trouble in order to winterize, some of us aren't that "lucky" LOL

dieselsmoke · 09-20-2014, 08:13 AM

Ok. Thanks again. When I get home this week I'll snap a photo and post what I'm talking about as far as having a remote attachment to winterize

tfeekes · 09-24-2014, 05:01 AM

I would like to see that photo as well. I have the same model and was assuming i would have to access everything through the basement as I haven't found the access panel by the entertainment center you are speaking of.

dieselsmoke · 09-25-2014, 09:11 AM

if your looking at the tv, to the left is the long vertical "coat closet" under the coat closet is a square with a removable center panel, 4 screws hold it in. If you remove that panel you will find the backside of the water inlets where you can get to the fitting. I will post a photo for you when I can

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