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Old 08-18-2014, 02:54 PM   #21
lifecamper
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Yes sir, now looking at 2000W/4000w surge etc.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:08 PM   #22
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Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by lifecamper View Post
Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.
After buying 4 Trojans, I can understand why you "need to wait to get the funds".
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:54 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by lifecamper View Post
Just installed 4 Trojan T-105's in series/parallel. Have found a 2000W inverter but need to wait to get the funds.
I was looking for a 2kw one when I found my 3kw AIMS on eBay - was the only bidder and got it to home for only $615. Although I'd already put in a Morningstar Tristar-45 solar charger, this model AIMS also has a battery charger AND a solar charger built in. It's a beast at almost 80 lbs, but hopefully will last as I'll never be using it at full capacity.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:53 PM   #25
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I found a 2000W with remote for $305 free ship and no tax. Just have to wait for funds to arrive. I will then start the search for a 100W or larger suitcase solar charger that will store in the basement of my Springdale.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:38 AM   #26
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Having recently purchased a suitcase solar charger from Renogy and then reading more about how the charger should be close to the batteries, I would do it different next time; i.e., purchase the suitcase unit WITHOUT a charger, buy a separate 30-40 amp charger and mount it in the storage bay adjacent to the batteries with stout cables and get 50' of solar cable, M4 connectors so that I could put my panels where I needed them instead of being constrained to the 15' that may not have sun. And that charger would be good for roof panels if you decided to add some later.
BTW, I saw a drawing of how to connect 2 suitcase solar kits if you have 4 batteries - just connect one to the same terminals as the pos/neg house cables and the other to the inside pos/neg terminals. That way they don't interfere with each other. The 12-volt connection is below.
And if you get them without chargers, combine them before connecting to the charger.
http://thewynns.wpengine.netdna-cdn....-batteries.jpg
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:55 PM   #27
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I don't think that connection would work for me as I now have four 6V Trojan T-105's in Series Parallel. A friend of mine said the same thing about buying a controller and mounting it close to the batteries then get the portable solar panels and a long connection cable. My next step is to get the inverter and get it installed and working then deal with the solar charger. I'm going to do away with the long shore line that stores in by the panel and put in a power input with a twist lock then make a short cable to go to my generator and a line to run to the inverter. Then my left over shore line will become a long power line when shore power is in use.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:33 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by lifecamper View Post
I don't think that connection would work for me as I now have four 6V Trojan T-105's in Series Parallel. A friend of mine said the same thing about buying a controller and mounting it close to the batteries then get the portable solar panels and a long connection cable. My next step is to get the inverter and get it installed and working then deal with the solar charger.
Yes, saw your T-105 install. I just did 2 and that connection won't work for me either, but I think the twin 12v connection may be the same concept as the quad 6v connection, but haven't really thought it through.
While changing parameters in my Renogy solar charger to the Trojan specs, it looked like I could just remove the controller and mount it in the trailer. I would just need to get the proper connectors to switch it and 50' of solar cable.

I also have the OEM WFCO 8955 charger/converter that is by spec much weaker than the Trojans would like, plus many report that it is reluctant to go into boost mode for quick charging. I am thinking about the PowerMax Boondocker 4-stage as a direct replacement and that is a higher priority. I have a Bestek 300w inverter with alligator clips that I could clip to the batteries to power the leaf blower I use to clear the tops of my slides prior to retraction. The PowerMax Boondocker should do a better job of maintaining the batteries through the winter as removing multiple heavy batteries is a chore at my age.
http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondoc...955_c_196.html

Someone suggested just doing a battery disconnect and using a Battery Minder instead of the WFCO converter. That sounds like a great idea.
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