Noisy Water Pump

[Jayef]

This is probably a issue with most TT’s. I have a Bullet 243BHS and I find that the water pump is noisy when any of the water taps are turned on. I put 1 inch foam board around the perimeter of the area where the pump is and mounted rubber pads on the pump but all for nothing really. I may be a tad quieter, but still loud. Any suggestions? The area where the pump is at front adjacent to the bed ,so not a lot of room to work with.

[flybouy]

Often it's not the pump itself making the noise but the water lines. Check to see if the pipe from the hose is up against or very close to the hole or a wood panel. The "hammering of the pipe against a wall or the floor can resonate like a drum.

[chuckster57]

Very common in the bullets. I usually zip tie the lines real tight away from any wall so they cant rattle.

[Northofu1]

I used soft sound proof foam on my Bullet not too long before trading it in, made a big difference, the pump was in the bedroom right beside Serena's ear , hehehe

[skids]

Originally Posted by Northofu1

I used soft sound proof foam on my Bullet not too long before trading it in, made a big difference, the pump was in the bedroom right beside Serena's ear , hehehe

Was that something that resembled “pool noodles?”

[roadglide]

I repaired the rubber pump mount with large 1 inch rubber at the front where the pipes pulled the front of the pump down to the floor causing havoc in the camper .I then used gobs of silicon under the rubber mount supporting the pump . I have noodles around all the pipes.

[JRTJH]

The screws that hold the pump to the floor have "compressible rubber feet" that are supposed to isolate the vibrations, preventing them from making the trailer floor a "drum".... If the screws are tightened too much, the rubber feet can't do their job… Loosen the rubber feet until the screws "barely contact the top of the mount. It won't work loose and it won't cause a leak. It may stop the "drumming" caused by the pump vibrating on the floor...

I built a pump isolation mount for my trailer, here's a diagram of how it was built. Essentially, the pump mounts to the top board which is isolated by the foam. The bottom board is all that's attached to the trailer, completely isolating the pump vibrations (except for the PEX lines) from the trailer solid structures. I used a "scrap piece of foam floor mat from Harbor Freight, the kind that interlock together to form a larger mat. It's about 3/4" thick and easily compressible, but not "sponge soft".

[Hblick48]

Install an accumulator tank. Reduces "hammering"

https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Pre-Pr...s%2C241&sr=8-5

[Sarge2]

Well General RV fixed mine... they winterized it and did it improperly so the pump cracked... they replaced it with a better pump and it's very quiet now.. could be they moved the lines around as well.. but the original pump on my 2020 passport would wake the dead...

[Northofu1]

Originally Posted by skids

Was that something that resembled “pool noodles?”

Sorry fella, like this, only in one large piece.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06W54NQHC/..._xP2.Eb5NWGEQ1
I was happy with it.

[Jayef]

Originally Posted by Hblick48

Install an accumulator tank. Reduces "hammering"

https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Pre-Pr...s%2C241&sr=8-5

Ordered one today. Thanks.

[Jayef]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The screws that hold the pump to the floor have "compressible rubber feet" that are supposed to isolate the vibrations, preventing them from making the trailer floor a "drum".... If the screws are tightened too much, the rubber feet can't do their job… Loosen the rubber feet until the screws "barely contact the top of the mount. It won't work loose and it won't cause a leak. It may stop the "drumming" caused by the pump vibrating on the floor...

I built a pump isolation mount for my trailer, here's a diagram of how it was built. Essentially, the pump mounts to the top board which is isolated by the foam. The bottom board is all that's attached to the trailer, completely isolating the pump vibrations (except for the PEX lines) from the trailer solid structures. I used a "scrap piece of foam floor mat from Harbor Freight, the kind that interlock together to form a larger mat. It's about 3/4" thick and easily compressible, but not "sponge soft".

Thanks. I may try this as well. I mounted the pump on rubber pads but it didn’t make any difference.

[08quadram]

If you look at the pump install instructions on the flowjet, it states to use a flexible hose between the pump and any hard lines to minimize noise. Mine is hooked up to the pex line which has little to no slack in it. Keystone just sent me a warranty replacement pump so I'm going to install it with a flex line.

[busterbrown]

Swapping out the OE Flojet for a Shurflo was at least half the "noise" battle. With the addition of noise suppression materials, I was able to reduce the late night hammering to a mere gentle hum in my Bullet 308BHS. (see below)

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...3&postcount=68

[Jayef]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Often it's not the pump itself making the noise but the water lines. Check to see if the pipe from the hose is up against or very close to the hole or a wood panel. The "hammering of the pipe against a wall or the floor can resonate like a drum.

Its difficult to access the piping to zip tie them with the coroplast underbelly of my trailer. It is attached with rivets or something similar, not screws or bolts. I definitely don't want to start cutting the material to get at the pipes. I have ordered an accumulator and noise reduction piping kit. Hopefully that will reduce the noise a bit.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Jayef

Its difficult to access the piping to zip tie them with the coroplast underbelly of my trailer. It is attached with rivets or something similar, not screws or bolts. I definitely don't want to start cutting the material to get at the pipes. I have ordered an accumulator and noise reduction piping kit. Hopefully that will reduce the noise a bit.

That will most likely take care of the noise. It's not the pipes against the coroplast that makes the noise. Typically it's the water line from the pump resting against some wood or touching the floor where it goes thru to the underbelly. The wood will "transmit" the sound much like hitting a peice of wood with a hammer.

[wagonicfolding]

They probably all sound the same. A lot of the noise is transmitted by the pipes that connect to the pump. You can buy water pump silencing kit which helps with that. The pump should also be insulated from whatever its screwed to using rubber mounts.

[Jayef]

I've insulated the pump from the floor, bought a pump silencing kit and an accumulator pump, it reduced the noise a bit but not enough. It's the pipes hammering against the frame and walls of the trailer. I guess I will have to live with it. I'm not going to cut into the coroplast to insulate the pipes. I will buy a quieter pump when this one burns out or I become more frustrated with it all.

[JRTJH]

Some noise from the water pump "should be reassuring" rather than annoying.....

The occasional noise gives you the ability to monitor the pump operation. If you think about it, when the pump turns on, it means that there is a reduction in pressure within the plumbing supply system. That could be caused by turning on a faucet (normal operation) or from a leak in the cold/hot water lines, leaking faucet, ruptured water heater tank, loose cap on the low point drains or any number of other conditions (broken components)....

So, if the water pump were "completley silent" you'd lose the ability to "monitor your fresh water system". To me, it's reassuring to be able to hear the pump when it does come on. If, in the middle of the night or when things are somewhat quiet and I hear the pump "momentarily burp" and there's nobody using any water, it's time to go exploring and find the cause.

With travel trailers that bounce down the road over bumps and holes in the highway, it's "almost a blessing" to be able to hear the pump. It helps identify a small crack in a plastic fitting, a corroded water heater tank (leaking into the foam insulation cover), a leaking faucet fitting under a sink, or a ruptured line in the basement "when it first happens" rather than "when the bottom falls out and the entire floor has rotted away from 6 months of water soaking into the luan.....

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by 08quadram

If you look at the pump install instructions on the flowjet, it states to use a flexible hose between the pump and any hard lines to minimize noise. Mine is hooked up to the pex line which has little to no slack in it. Keystone just sent me a warranty replacement pump so I'm going to install it with a flex line.

08Q

I'm not saying don't do it, but... the 3 water line leaks I've had were all at a connector on a flex hose, not Pex pipe. The connectors are designed for Pex which is slightly different diameter than the flex line. I know that's what the manual says, but I couldn't find a connector made for the flex line on one end and Pex on the other.

If it was me, I would not replace your Pex line with flex line unless you have an issue where that is the only solution.

Just my 2¢
Mike