Cattail, what RV do you have? That will help us in answering your question.
If it has a "Polar Package" of some sort that will help. Although those packages aren't designed to help a whole bunch they do help some. Usually consist of an enclosed underbelly and an extra 2" heat duct into said underbelly. Also, in one trailer I had the furnace had a higher output than one with no package. And maybe double pane windows.
If your RV is lived in and you are hooked up to sewer and water that presents other issues in below freezing temps. Here's what I do when temps fall to the point of being an issue. Leave your waste tank valves closed. When needing to dump just dump and close valves. A lot of folks will leave the gray open and black closed. During times of severe cold, like lower than the teens, leaving the gray open can cause it to freeze solid because not enough warm water is being flushed down to keep the line clear, especially if you leave a faucet dripping overnight to keep the inside plumbing from freezing. Then you have real problems. Also I would use the onboard fresh water tank, unhooking the city water inlet hose and only use it to refill the tank when needed.
Additional point. If you are using electric space heaters to heat the RV instead of the onboard furnace that 2" duct is not supplying heat to the underbelly. You need the furnace on to do that.
One more thing: don't trust that it will only get "so" cold. The weather prognosticators, while more accurate now than in the past, still don't get it right some times.
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2007 Keystone Cougar 243RKS
2019 Ford F150 S/Crew ECOBoost
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