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Old 04-30-2016, 05:08 PM   #21
Tbos
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Originally Posted by dcg9381 View Post
Tbos, I'm sorry, I don't have an update. It's been in the shop for more than 30 days (past my state's allowable "Lemon" law time). The dealer hasn't contacted me.



I've called twice:

1) Dealer said "we've been unable to fix it" - we're calling Keystone.

2) I followed up with Keystone a few days later (email) and did not get a response (included my VIN, etc). I called the dealer back instead and pointed them to accu-slide's tech support guy, who is great.

3) I called the dealer today, they said that it was going "back in the bay" and that they now think they can adjust the cables, which makes no sense.



I've read all the Accu-slide docs and talked to their tech support - there is no front to rear adjustment.



I will say, that if you park the RV off angle and manipulate the slides, you can get them to shift a bit front to rear. The cables themselves are "floating" so you can't pin them to force the slide forward or backward.



The bigger issue, after talking with Accu-slide, is that out of 6 cables on 3 sides, 4 of them are resting against the aluminum of the "jamb-clamp" - and they've already dug big cuts in the aluminum where they ride. Accu-slide says that this will cut the cables - eventually... Anyone buying a Keystone (or any other brand) with cable slides should watch these on a PDI.


Thanks for the update. I have one cable that is rubbing. I'll have to keep an eye on it if I can't find a way to adjust it. Someone suggested carrying extra cables. It does look relatively easy to change a cable if you can access everything.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:19 PM   #22
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I have had my trailer in the shop 3 times for the slide jumping . They lube and adjust but the first time I use its still not fixed . That is BS a dealer don't know how to adjust a simple cable system. I did find that the bottom of the slide is dragging and there isn't much wear. When the lady brought it in the last time I sprayed Rv lube under neath where I though the dragging was . It worked but I don't know if it will stay fixed.
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Old 05-02-2016, 04:33 AM   #23
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From memory the FW is still in storage.

On the living room slide, the inside seals are ripped on both sides about 5 inches were they meet to top of the windows. The outside ones are ripped about 3 or 4 inches on the left side and about 2 inches on the right side (Standing outside).

The bed room seal is ripped about 1 ˝ inches on the outside front.

The cables have made cuts into at least 4 aluminum plates.

Dcg9381, from my experience the only way to get Keystone to fix your problem will be to use your ‘’Lemon’’ law.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:43 AM   #24
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I looked at mine this weekend. It seems that all 4 cables are making cuts into the aluminum plates. This seems like a common issue with this type of slide.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:59 AM   #25
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I looked at mine this weekend. It seems that all 4 cables are making cuts into the aluminum plates. This seems like a common issue with this type of slide.
I looked closely at mine this weekend including taking off the shredded rubber pads and I concluded that the rollers used to pull the slide in, are offset to the inside on the frame. The result is as others have observed, the cable wearing the aluminum as the cable moved. I used a file to "clean up" the holes and add a chamfer to act as a ramp for the cable end.

I also replaced the rubber pads that I have now replaced twice (they are getting shredded and will not stick well to the frame) with a piece of gorilla tape to cover the hole and keep water out and placed a rubber pad on the slide bracket. Hopefully this will work.

I am disappointed with the poor execution of a concept that is relatively simple to get right.
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:41 AM   #26
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Your cougar is 6 years old, correct? I don't know that I'd be upset about replacing seal wipers 6 years from now. Not ideal, for sure, but wouldn't that be considered "maintenance"?

My slide is actually scraping the opening itself, it's cutting into the aluminum, starting to sheer the screw heads, etc.

As I stated, I read all of the Accu-slide docs and even called to talk to their slide guy. I don't really understand what keeps those slides "centered" - they seem to float in the opening, which would be fine as long as you install some rollers at the limits... (maybe)

We're well into lemon law territory for this RV in my state. Looking at the statistics, only 6 cases of Lemon Law were filed (in my state) against Keystone in 2015, so hopefully this can be resolved. To me, exercising that will be done when we've exhausted all other options. The situation would be a little more pallet-able if there was some dealer/keystone originated communication on the issue, such would really be my only "ask" in regard to dealing with this at the current time.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:12 AM   #27
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................. I don't really understand what keeps those slides "centered" - they seem to float in the opening, which would be fine as long as you install some rollers at the limits.........................
FWIIW:
My slide has small diameter rollers near the bottom of the slide just above the floor level and behind the outer vertical seals to keep the slide centered in the opening.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:50 AM   #28
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FWIIW:
My slide has small diameter rollers near the bottom of the slide just above the floor level and behind the outer vertical seals to keep the slide centered in the opening.
I think I've got rollers too, but how do those rollers keep it from moving front/rear?
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Old 05-02-2016, 04:41 PM   #29
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I looked at mine this weekend. It seems that all 4 cables are making cuts into the aluminum plates. This seems like a common issue with this type of slide.


I looked at mine this afternoon and it looks like I might have 3 of the 4 rubbing. I haven't looked at the outside only the inside. To see outside I'd have to remove some of the seals. I like the idea of filing a notch in the frame. However, the cable may be doing that for us. The cable doesn't seem to hit when the slide is in. I believe that is the biggest concern that it could rub and cut the cable while traveling. FYI, I am missing one of the rubber grommets that keeps the cable from sliding too far over.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:14 PM   #30
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I removed my rubber pads and rubbed the cheap double sided tape off of them. Replaced that it with 3M tape tape. Works really good, they are still stuck. Another price point item. If 3M was used to start with they would stay and seal the rain out.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:42 PM   #31
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Anyone who has spent any time at all with fishing rods, knows that the new ceramic rod guides and the even better carbide and nitride lined guides are smoother, cause almost no line damage and won't wear easily.

I haven't seen, but wonder if there is a "line guide" that can be purchased to insert in the guide holes to prevent damage to the aluminum guide, the cable assembly and to essentially prevent any wear? Seems like what the RV manufacturers who install BAL cable slides do is install the "cheapest system" which is just a "hole in the aluminum guide". If there were a more sophisticated and longer wearing "guide lining" that we could insert, I wonder if it would eliminate much of the wear, resulting damage and even cable fray damage?
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:27 PM   #32
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Spent this evening adjusting my cable slide. So I took another close look.

Either the cables have been routed incorrectly, or there is a design error. The cable rollers to pull the slide in are definitely offset towards the center of the slide and are no where near being centered to the clearance hole. Also the brackets on the outside of the slide do not have a long enough "leg" to allow the cable to be centered relative to the clearance hole.

The cables that pull the slide out are nearly centered in the holes and are not wearing the frame.

Mine has now worn out to the point that the cable roller and L bracket are aligned, so that should be it for wear. Fingers crossed.
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:28 AM   #33
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Your cougar is 6 years old, correct? I don't know that I'd be upset about replacing seal wipers 6 years from now. Not ideal, for sure, but wouldn't that be considered "maintenance"?
Dcg9381, true it 6 years old, but the problem started the first year. My brother has a 13 years old FW from another company and the original seals are in perfect working order.

There is a small diameter roller near the bottom of the slide on my FW, but the slide window would hit the opening before touching it. I look closely at it 4 or 5 years ago but could not find a way to adjust it. It might be possible to adjust with the slide off the FW.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:45 AM   #34
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Anyone who has spent any time at all with fishing rods, knows that the new ceramic rod guides and the even better carbide and nitride lined guides are smoother, cause almost no line damage and won't wear easily.



I haven't seen, but wonder if there is a "line guide" that can be purchased to insert in the guide holes to prevent damage to the aluminum guide, the cable assembly and to essentially prevent any wear? Seems like what the RV manufacturers who install BAL cable slides do is install the "cheapest system" which is just a "hole in the aluminum guide". If there were a more sophisticated and longer wearing "guide lining" that we could insert, I wonder if it would eliminate much of the wear, resulting damage and even cable fray damage?


Sounds like an idea you should pitch to BAL. I know I'd buy a set.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:31 AM   #35
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So would I
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:14 AM   #36
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Guide holes - or some sort of sleeve are a good idea. Just need to find a way to attach these to the jamb-clamp.

The reality is that these slides seem to "float" - that is, nothing that holds the slide centered in the opening, at least that I can see. I'd like to see "limit" rollers on the front and back to prevent issues like I'm seeing - where the slide starts to grind itself on the opening...
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:01 AM   #37
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Guide holes - or some sort of sleeve are a good idea. Just need to find a way to attach these to the jamb-clamp.



The reality is that these slides seem to "float" - that is, nothing that holds the slide centered in the opening, at least that I can see. I'd like to see "limit" rollers on the front and back to prevent issues like I'm seeing - where the slide starts to grind itself on the opening...


My sons have a 3D printer. If they could ever get it working I'm sure they could come up with something. I'm not going to hold my breath.
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:47 AM   #38
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I too would like to see a retrofit replaceable guide for the cables on units that have this design error. (My opinion is that there is a design error on my slide.)

But to deal with the root cause on future slides, the cables / rollers in the frame should be aligned with the center of the hole in the slide frame, rather than being offset 3/8 of an inch. Then a guide would not be required.
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #39
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After reading through the installation manual I wonder if the pulleys in the upper or lower corners aren't in the correct location. I think I'll try and take some measurements next time Im near the TT. I hate considering moving them but it might be the only way adjust where the cables ride horizontally.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:10 AM   #40
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Cable tension and proper adjustment is what keeps the slide centered. Each cable adjustment effects the oposite side. When all 4 in cables and all 4 out cables have the same tension the slide will stay centered. A read of the BAL cable manual will tell you which cables are effected by the others.

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