Solar and DC distribution board on hideout query

[carlosjackal]

I had this query elsewhere, but I think it might have been lost in historical thread.


hi Guys,

I have four queries:

1.

I am in the process of setting up my hideout off grid.
As we are 240v here in NZ, there is little use for the converter which is currently installed. I am in the process of pricing up 250W Solar panel and controller.

Here is what I plan to do.

Disconnect the converter output (+VCC and NEG on the picture) and remove the converter.
Disconnect the NEG and POS incoming supply from battery (Black and white wires on the picture) and put them into the controller for battery charge.
Run new wires from the controller output to NEG and POS on the picture.

Is this the correct method, or am I missing something? As I wont be using the +VCC but am guessing it is not necessary now.

I also am unsure if a 30A solar controller is suitable, in that any draw from the caravan will surely go through this controller (trailer is new, I have no idea of the potential draw). I could take the load direct from the batteries and ignore taking it from the controller?


2.
What are the 2 x 40A fuses for labelled Reverse Battery?


3.
If I fit an inverter, would I simply wire the DC to what will become two spare spaces on the POS and NEG. or do I put it across a fuse?

4.
I cannot find a DC isolator switch. It appears to me that the only way of total disconnect is removing a battery lug. If this is the case, I presume a simply isolator between the caravan POS and Solar controller will prevent batteries going flat when I am not there, and the solar is covered in snow/leaves etc..







The knowledge and comments are always welcome.

thanks

Carl

[Lholestine]

I can help with question #2 as I just became one of the idiots they put them there for. Those are the to help protect the electrical components in the trailer if you hook the battery cables up to the wrong posts. On my passport, black is positive and white is negative not vice versa as I found out. If only i had read the sticker on the frame by the battery box. As for the other questions, I have no idea.

[carlosjackal]

Originally Posted by Lholestine

I can help with question #2 as I just became one of the idiots they put them there for. Those are the to help protect the electrical components in the trailer if you hook the battery cables up to the wrong posts. On my passport, black is positive and white is negative not vice versa as I found out. If only i had read the sticker on the frame by the battery box. As for the other questions, I have no idea.

Thanks for this, I will leave them well alone.

cheers

[rjsurfer]

Your basic battery and load connections are wrong.

Don't use the "load" output on the solar controller that's sort of a vistigial output used for connecting outside lights that need to be controlled via a timer set within the solar controller. I even think there is a current limit, at the most, maybe 10 amps. There is no need to have any wires to that output.

You want only two cables attached to battery positive side, the solar output and the main disconnect switch. Then inverter then attaches to the main disconnect switch as does the main DC load to the coach.

Make sure the inverter is real close to the switch and uses at least 2 or 4 gauge wire depending on the size of the inverter output. The inverter manufacturer will include a chart to tell you the exact wire limits.

Good luck

Ron W.

[carlosjackal]

Originally Posted by rjsurfer

Your basic battery and load connections are wrong.

Don't use the "load" output on the solar controller that's sort of a vistigial output used for connecting outside lights that need to be controlled via a timer set within the solar controller. I even think there is a current limit, at the most, maybe 10 amps. There is no need to have any wires to that output.

You want only two cables attached to battery positive side, the solar output and the main disconnect switch. Then inverter then attaches to the main disconnect switch as does the main DC load to the coach.

Make sure the inverter is real close to the switch and uses at least 2 or 4 gauge wire depending on the size of the inverter output. The inverter manufacturer will include a chart to tell you the exact wire limits.

Good luck

Ron W.

thanks for this. The controller I have is a 30A model. The inverter I now intend to use will be nothing more than just 300 watts or so as it is only for powering a small LED TV or laptop when on not plugged into mains.
In addition, because I am running the solar DC feed through the fridge vent, it is extremely convenient to place the controller in the vicinity of the fuse board below the fridge and connect as initially proposed. Does this change your thinking Ron?

[rjsurfer]

A small inverter makes life easier for sure, maybe just requiring 8 or 10 gauge from the battery.

Where is the battery located and how far away from panel?

Ron

[carlosjackal]

Originally Posted by rjsurfer

A small inverter makes life easier for sure, maybe just requiring 8 or 10 gauge from the battery.

Where is the battery located and how far away from panel?

Ron

the Panel is on the roof, around the middle area and just forward of the fridge roof vent.
The batteries are located exterior to the trailer, between the front of the body and the 2 propane cylinders.
I suppose I could run some wire from the battery dedicated to perhaps a 1kw inverter. I have some DC wire which is about 16mm2 which should be ample I suppose.

cheers

carl