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Old 02-11-2022, 07:28 PM   #1
lestahhh
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Just left the truck dealership...would appreciate some feedback

Hi all. I've been looking for weeks to upsize to a 2500 truck. I prefer RAMs so I've finally found a truck that just seems like a great deal (considering the market these days!). It's a 2020 2500 gasser 6.4L V8 Hemi. It only has 23k miles and it's going for $50600 where I live. I know that's high considering prices in the past but the market is so inflated right now I have no choice. I leave my current site next Saturday and so I need the upsized truck to comfortably haul my TT and family. Anyways, using the VIN on the ram towing guide website I see that the payload is 3200 and the towing capacity is over 14,000 which is incredibly amazing. Right? I checked the yellow sticker when I test drove the truck tonight and it matches the payload of 3200. My TT weighs closer to 8k when all said and done. So I've calculated the payload to be give or take about 1400 (including us). So this truck would give me ample buffer capacities. I will only be pulling the trailer roughly every 3 months as I jump from contract assignments and I will be driving the truck daily to work back and forth.

Secondly, as I was test driving it tonight I noticed something that seemed odd to me but may be completely normal. And that is that from a stopped position when I turn the wheel either left or right all the way the vehicle wouldn't cruise. The salesman seemed knowledgeable and he said that that's because the engine is so heavy you need to apply gas in order for the truck to go forward since the tires are turned all the way. It seems possible but I wanted to see if you guys are aware of that for those of you who have driven a 6.4L V8 engine. Or is that something I should be concerned with regarding power steering or wheels hitting the wheelbase?

Lastly, I will be trading in my 2018 1500 RAM but they insisted on knowing my payoff amount when trying to tell me what the trade-in value is. In all honesty this is going to be an underwater trading situation for me, because I bought the truck just 3 months ago and I owe 40K on it and at best the Kelley Blue Book says that it is value at 37k. So naturally I would love to get a value as close as 40 as I can but I know that that's going to be very difficult. They presented me with 30K and I almost walked out lol. When I told them that I wanted at least the Kelley Blue Book of 37 they replied back with 36k. (funny how that happens).

I would love any feedback on how to best deal with the dealership and about the wheels. I know this truck is a lot of money but I can afford it. Plus I want a truck I can have for at least 15+ years. Which is why I've been searching high and low for a truck with low mileage, great price, and high payload and towing capacity. And honestly I loved the truck lol it drove well and it's got good stuff. Thanks for any feedback. I'm going to bed so I'll read replies tomorrow. Thank you again and sorry for the long post!
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Old 02-11-2022, 07:57 PM   #2
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Make sure they transfer the factory warranty into your name…the factory warranty not a third party warranty…better yet since it’s so new maybe you can ask them to sell it as certified pre owned..The warranty is better…they may charge a couple of hundred extra ( or possibly 1k ) for that but would/maybe be worth it…they probably won’t be to thrilled with that idea but can’t hurt to ask

For the heck of it …take your old truck to carmax and see what they will give you…I’ve sold three different vehicles to them. It takes about a half hour..no pressure ..they give you a paper with the offer good for 10 days..they cut you a check on the spot when you accept

I did really well with them

If there is anyway you could sell your truck outright. Probably get over blue book or sell to carmax and pay off the difference in cash you would be in a much better situation…if your upside down and they add to the new vehicle you’ll end up paying a lot more for that $4000 difference over the course of the loan

Oh and congratulations!
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Old 02-11-2022, 08:11 PM   #3
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I was on my way to bed as well but some thoughts (and I'm a Ram fan as well);

"Cruise" on idle with the wheels cut all the way one way or the other? Never tried it but doubt any of my 6.4 HD trucks would have gone anywhere when warmed up and idling. That is not anything I would ever try to judge a truck by - you could speed up the idle and fix that if it was important but I wouldn't.

3200 is a good payload for that truck and compares closely to the one I had. You don't need to concern yourself with the max towing capacity but it's good to know. If you haven't scaled take 13% of that 8k trailer weight (1040lbs) add 100 for a good wdh/sway and then add up you, the family, what you will take in the truck (tools, ice chest, groceries, snacks, puppy, bbq etc). Whatever that comes to comes off the 3200. You should be in good shape.

Pricing? That stuff is nuts at the moment. The asking price for that truck is too high but I'm sure it reflects the too high price they paid to acquire it. Plus the trade in value they are giving you for your truck is too high as well...but not in these times. New trucks give you better pricing but they aren't "hands on now" like you need. Since I'm about to sack out I haven't pulled up a lot of comparisons (you can) but on the face of it I don't think you are getting taken to the cleaners - and you need a truck.

Now, need a truck for the next 15 years??? The longest I ever kept a vehicle was 6 so I can't speak to that. Take care of it and it will probably last that long; you don't say how many miles you plan on putting on it?
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Old 02-12-2022, 05:33 AM   #4
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[QUOTE=lestahhh;486209]Hi all. I've been looking for weeks to upsize to a 2500 truck. I prefer RAMs so I've finally found a truck that just seems like a great deal (considering the market these days!). It's a 2020 2500 gasser 6.4L V8 Hemi. It only has 23k miles and it's going for $50600 where I live. I know that's high considering prices in the past but the market is so inflated right now I have no choice. I leave my current site next Saturday and so I need the upsized truck to comfortably haul my TT and family. Anyways, using the VIN on the ram towing guide website I see that the payload is 3200 and the towing capacity is over 14,000 which is incredibly amazing. Right? I checked the yellow sticker when I test drove the truck tonight and it matches the payload of 3200. My TT weighs closer to 8k when all said and done. So I've calculated the payload to be give or take about 1400 (including us). So this truck would give me ample buffer capacities. I will only be pulling the trailer roughly every 3 months as I jump from contract assignments and I will be driving the truck daily to work back and forth. I didn'ttake the time to research your other postss to see what trailer you intend to tow. This is when a signature really helps.

Secondly, as I was test driving it tonight I noticed something that seemed odd to me but may be completely normal. And that is that from a stopped position when I turn the wheel either left or right all the way the vehicle wouldn't cruise. The salesman seemed knowledgeable and he said that that's because the engine is so heavy you need to apply gas in order for the truck to go forward since the tires are turned all the way. It seems possible but I wanted to see if you guys are aware of that for those of you who have driven a 6.4L V8 engine. Or is that something I should be concerned with regarding power steering or wheels hitting the wheelbase? This is random to to me. By "cruise" I'mguessing you me drift or move at idle. Can't understandwhy that'sa concern but don'tthink it would have anything to do with that engine. There'sso many variables at play there such as road surface, grade, tire tread design, drive train gearing, and the list goes on.

Lastly, I will be trading in my 2018 1500 RAM but they insisted on knowing my payoff amount when trying to tell me what the trade-in value is. In all honesty this is going to be an underwater trading situation for me, because I bought the truck just 3 months ago and I owe 40K on it and at best the Kelley Blue Book says that it is value at 37k. So naturally I would love to get a value as close as 40 as I can but I know that that's going to be very difficult. They presented me with 30K and I almost walked out lol. When I told them that I wanted at least the Kelley Blue Book of 37 they replied back with 36k. (funny how that happens). Of course they need the payoff. How else would they know how much the truck is going to cost them? When you trade in a vehichle and they pay off the loan then yes, they need to know how much you owe on your trade. "Book value" on a trade in has always been a "feel good" thing for the buyer, go you really think they are "giving" you anything? It'sa buissness deal, they smile and play "let's be freinds" while they reach in your pocket.

I would love any feedback on how to best deal with the dealership and about the wheels. I know this truck is a lot of money but I can afford it. Plus I want a truck I can have for at least 15+ years. Which is why I've been searching high and low for a truck with low mileage, great price, and high payload and towing capacity. And honestly I loved the truck lol it drove well and it's got good stuff. Thanks for any feedback. I'm going to bed so I'll read replies tomorrow. Thank you again and sorry for the long post. By saying "you can afford it" do mean you can make the monthly payments or you can afford to payoff your current truck? If the latteri is true then that's your best, less costly option.
I have no idea what your current loan terms are or if your current loan included a previous balance from a trade in on that vehichle. A simple call to the lending institution will garner the numbers and you'll know where you stand and just how much that freindly salesmen is "giving you". The biggest misteak people make in buying aanything on credit is getting hooked on the monthly payment amount. It's easy to think "I want that shiny new [whatever with all the latest do-dads and I can afford $XXXX a month. Then several years later depreciation has devalued the truck by %50 but you still owe %90 of the principle on the loan. Doing that can run you down a rabbithole that'sdifficult to climb out of.
15 years ? I hope that isn'tbecause of your proposed loan term on the truck your considering. Projecting longevity on a vehichle is impossible. There's too many variables to calculate. How and where you drive is as much or more of a factor than how you maintain it. If you're the type that runs to the truck in thw winter, shove your coffee in the cup holder and races to work well expect the engine and tranny to fail faster then if you let it warm for a min and drive off slowely. Driving in stop and go traffic or for very short trips will decrease longevity. Driving in very snowy climates where the roads are heavily salted, or living on the coast where salty sea air blows in vs the high dessert will affect longevity.
These are but a few of the variables to consider.



Too much to "unpack" so my camments are in red above.
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Old 02-12-2022, 05:58 AM   #5
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[QUOTE=flybouy;486223]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lestahhh View Post
Hi all. I've been looking for weeks to upsize to a 2500 truck. I prefer RAMs so I've finally found a truck that just seems like a great deal (considering the market these days!). It's a 2020 2500 gasser 6.4L V8 Hemi. It only has 23k miles and it's going for $50600 where I live. I know that's high considering prices in the past but the market is so inflated right now I have no choice. I leave my current site next Saturday and so I need the upsized truck to comfortably haul my TT and family. Anyways, using the VIN on the ram towing guide website I see that the payload is 3200 and the towing capacity is over 14,000 which is incredibly amazing. Right? I checked the yellow sticker when I test drove the truck tonight and it matches the payload of 3200. My TT weighs closer to 8k when all said and done. So I've calculated the payload to be give or take about 1400 (including us). So this truck would give me ample buffer capacities. I will only be pulling the trailer roughly every 3 months as I jump from contract assignments and I will be driving the truck daily to work back and forth. I didn'ttake the time to research your other postss to see what trailer you intend to tow. This is when a signature really helps.

Secondly, as I was test driving it tonight I noticed something that seemed odd to me but may be completely normal. And that is that from a stopped position when I turn the wheel either left or right all the way the vehicle wouldn't cruise. The salesman seemed knowledgeable and he said that that's because the engine is so heavy you need to apply gas in order for the truck to go forward since the tires are turned all the way. It seems possible but I wanted to see if you guys are aware of that for those of you who have driven a 6.4L V8 engine. Or is that something I should be concerned with regarding power steering or wheels hitting the wheelbase? This is random to to me. By "cruise" I'mguessing you me drift or move at idle. Can't understandwhy that'sa concern but don'tthink it would have anything to do with that engine. There'sso many variables at play there such as road surface, grade, tire tread design, drive train gearing, and the list goes on.

Lastly, I will be trading in my 2018 1500 RAM but they insisted on knowing my payoff amount when trying to tell me what the trade-in value is. In all honesty this is going to be an underwater trading situation for me, because I bought the truck just 3 months ago and I owe 40K on it and at best the Kelley Blue Book says that it is value at 37k. So naturally I would love to get a value as close as 40 as I can but I know that that's going to be very difficult. They presented me with 30K and I almost walked out lol. When I told them that I wanted at least the Kelley Blue Book of 37 they replied back with 36k. (funny how that happens). Of course they need the payoff. How else would they know how much the truck is going to cost them? When you trade in a vehichle and they pay off the loan then yes, they need to know how much you owe on your trade. "Book value" on a trade in has always been a "feel good" thing for the buyer, go you really think they are "giving" you anything? It'sa buissness deal, they smile and play "let's be freinds" while they reach in your pocket.

I would love any feedback on how to best deal with the dealership and about the wheels. I know this truck is a lot of money but I can afford it. Plus I want a truck I can have for at least 15+ years. Which is why I've been searching high and low for a truck with low mileage, great price, and high payload and towing capacity. And honestly I loved the truck lol it drove well and it's got good stuff. Thanks for any feedback. I'm going to bed so I'll read replies tomorrow. Thank you again and sorry for the long post. By saying "you can afford it" do mean you can make the monthly payments or you can afford to payoff your current truck? If the latteri is true then that's your best, less costly option.
I have no idea what your current loan terms are or if your current loan included a previous balance from a trade in on that vehichle. A simple call to the lending institution will garner the numbers and you'll know where you stand and just how much that freindly salesmen is "giving you". The biggest misteak people make in buying aanything on credit is getting hooked on the monthly payment amount. It's easy to think "I want that shiny new [whatever with all the latest do-dads and I can afford $XXXX a month. Then several years later depreciation has devalued the truck by %50 but you still owe %90 of the principle on the loan. Doing that can run you down a rabbithole that'sdifficult to climb out of.
15 years ? I hope that isn'tbecause of your proposed loan term on the truck your considering. Projecting longevity on a vehichle is impossible. There's too many variables to calculate. How and where you drive is as much or more of a factor than how you maintain it. If you're the type that runs to the truck in thw winter, shove your coffee in the cup holder and races to work well expect the engine and tranny to fail faster then if you let it warm for a min and drive off slowely. Driving in stop and go traffic or for very short trips will decrease longevity. Driving in very snowy climates where the roads are heavily salted, or living on the coast where salty sea air blows in vs the high dessert will affect longevity.
These are but a few of the variables to consider.



Too much to "unpack" so my camments are in red above.
Marshall, I will read your fine post once I finish War and Peace.
OP has camper listed in his "about me". Why folks don't put full info in a signature is beyond me.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:02 AM   #6
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Does your proposed new truck have 4x4? If it has 4x4, it's possible you had 4x4 engaged when you did that sharp turn test. I know when my (Chevy) is in 4x4 and I attempt to make a sharp turn (turning the wheel all the way, one way or the other, the entire truck acts very weird. Jerking, steering seems to pulsate, and kind of, doesn't want to move. I have to back off the steering wheel just slightly and then everything is OK again.

I'm just making a suggestion as to what might have caused the "weirdness". I really don't know though.

About being upside down? That is a decision only you can answer and a decision you'll need to be comfortable with. Of course, paying cash and not even having a loan at all is truly the best financial option. But, very few people have that option to plop down 50 or 60 thousand dollars all at once either.

About having the truck for 15 years? Well, maybe it's best to just state you plan on keeping this truck forever, instead. I think folks are more accepting of that phraseology and we all understand what you mean. For some reason, term limits seems to upset some folks.

Myself, I'm planning on keeping my current truck and trailer forever. It is my goal to never purchase another one, ever again. Both current truck and trailer were purchased brand new. Both originally had roll-over loans imbedded in the purchase from the previous truck and trailer. It was a very, very aggressive and self-sacrificing 2 years, but within 2 years after purchase, the truck was completely paid in full.
We did the same thing with the current fifth wheel we have now. 2 years and it was 100% paid in full. Both are completely paid for, and I really never want to get hooked into another loan situation again. So, I'm keeping mine forever now!

The only problem with any type of automobile ... the transmission and the engine may stay sound as a rock for 30 years. But the body and all the other parts fall apart. That's why we traded the last 2 trucks.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:03 AM   #7
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You think that’s bad George…I went on a gm truck forum where they were asking for payload stickers or payload rating for members trucks…overwhelming responses were… “ 2020 ltz …blue … 3900 lbs”… or something like that …hardly anyone could figure out that it would be best to say if they had a 1500,2500 or 3500 truck in either gas or diesel..it was frustrating and confusing.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:05 AM   #8
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I can't comment as I'm not into the current market. The last time I did this was the fall of 2020 just before the auto industry was killed by the "chip crunch" so the pricing is crazy. My only input is that both of my daughters upgraded vehicles lately. In both cases, they were advised...and it was true that their trade in would be valued more by CarMax, etc. They ended up with $2-3k more by going that route. These trade-ins were similar in that they were going to trade in for the same brand at the dealership they previously dealt with and both were purchasing used (1-2 year old vehicles). So literally they entered info online got a price and ended up a couple of hundred above that when they went to trade it in. But it was thousands more than the dealership.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:08 AM   #9
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[QUOTE=wiredgeorge;486224]
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Originally Posted by flybouy View Post

Marshall, I will read your fine post once I finish War and Peace.
OP has camper listed in his "about me". Why folks don't put full info in a signature is beyond me.
Geoege, we all read at different levels, not judging. It's a long answere to an even longer post. Yes I'm fully aware of the "about me" information but many folks new to the forum may not be. My point (without trying to appear rude) is that if someone is looking for help/advice the least they can do to help themselves is provide some basic information. I think some folks think "well I posted that last week or last month" not thinking that there has been hundreds of posts after that by many people.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:14 AM   #10
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[QUOTE=flybouy;486230]
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Geoege, we all read at different levels, not judging. It's a long answere to an even longer post. Yes I'm fully aware of the "about me" information but many folks new to the forum may not be. My point (without trying to appear rude) is that if someone is looking for help/advice the least they can do to help themselves is provide some basic information. I think some folks think "well I posted that last week or last month" not thinking that there has been hundreds of posts after that by many people.
My point was that if a person doesn't take the two minutes to post year, make and model of RV & TV in a signature, I don't really think folks should dig for it either and detailed answers probably are not warranted; especially for folks who have been on the site for awhile.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:17 AM   #11
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I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that's long winded. I've REALLY tried to shorten my posts on these forums. I got picked on quite a bit in my "former" forum site association for being long winded. I don't use that site any more either.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:21 AM   #12
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I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that's long winded. I've REALLY tried to shorten my posts on these forums. I got picked on quite a bit in my "former" forum site association for being long winded. I don't use that site any more either.
It's a fault of mine as well. I don’t mind a long post if it's subsitive. When it becomes "rambling" then I just stop or choose not to read it. It's all good I can take the criticism and rather enjoy bantering with George.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:39 AM   #13
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OP I failed to address the issue of "dealing" with the dealership. They don't need to know your payoff. Tell them you want the bottom line selling price for the truck - leave your truck out of the equation. Don't discuss anything else. You can then compare that with the best pricing you can find locally or elsewhere - easy to do. Then tell them you want the best price for your truck - period. No loan payoff, no this, no that. That's another number that's easy to compare without getting lost in what will become a jumble of numbers as they play your payoff into the 4x4 sales scheme to confuse the issue. After that it's easy; in great shape, upside down - whatever it is you have the numbers to know 1) where you really are and 2) what you need to do about it without them "guiding" you to the proverbial slaughter.
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Old 02-12-2022, 07:11 AM   #14
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Only thing i can add with my 2 cents is the OP picked out a good truck. Same thing here but with 2 WD not 4WD. Mine is the tradesman, 410 rear end. I also believe prices are out of this world now. Luckily we were able to pay cash for the trailer and truck. I feel for the younger generation now with this economy were in. My reason for not entering my TV on this forum is If I ask a question it will be about Keystone trailers. I also belong to the Ram forum where all I have listed is my truck information. From looking at past posts on here i have noticed in a short time the newbies posting with signatures and immediately getting inundated about their tow vehicles weight issues. Not saying that's bad but maybe a reason why they don't include things in their signature. Who knows?
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Old 02-12-2022, 07:16 AM   #15
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Just did a truck upgrade myself where I was considering trading my previous in. Naturally they lowballed me even though truck was a 2014 with only 49,000 miles in pristine shape. They said they only wholesale trades and were not willing to give me KBB. I ended up selling to my future son in law who has been after it since day he saw it. He got a smoking deal!

HOWEVER, and reason for post:

Don't forget if you trade a vehicle in they deduct trade value from purchase BEFORE taxes (which in this lovely state of NY equated to just shy of $3,000). So if you sell outright add the tax to price.
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Old 02-12-2022, 07:36 AM   #16
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Just did a truck upgrade myself where I was considering trading my previous in. Naturally they lowballed me even though truck was a 2014 with only 49,000 miles in pristine shape. They said they only wholesale trades and were not willing to give me KBB. I ended up selling to my future son in law who has been after it since day he saw it. He got a smoking deal!

HOWEVER, and reason for post:

Don't forget if you trade a vehicle in they deduct trade value from purchase BEFORE taxes (which in this lovely state of NY equated to just shy of $3,000). So if you sell outright add the tax to price.
That only really works if you have equity in the trade..otherwise they just add your negative equity into the new loan price or require a bigger down payment..either way the taxes would be a wash ? Or am I wrong on this
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Old 02-12-2022, 08:32 AM   #17
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That only really works if you have equity in the trade..otherwise they just add your negative equity into the new loan price or require a bigger down payment..either way the taxes would be a wash ? Or am I wrong on this
Don't know. I owned truck out right so there was no negative equity.
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Old 02-12-2022, 09:01 AM   #18
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Hi everyone.

Sorry for late reply. First of all, I DO have a signature! I have no idea why it doesn't show! I'm attaching a screenshot to prove that!

I can afford it bc my income is very good and I plan on paying the truck much sooner than the loan terms. I hate paying interests but at the same time I hate tying up my cash right away and bc of things in my life right now I rather not use up cash.

I plan on keeping this truck forever! Maybe hand it down to my son when he's of age. That's what I meant by at least 15 years. I'm very good about routine and preventive maintenance.

Someone mentioned certified pre-owned, I asked and they responded that they can't because they're a Nissan dealership, and it's a Ram truck.

I'm on my way right now to a CarMax for an appraisal.

Regarding my question on the wheels, it happens when trying to leave from a stopped position such as from a parking space or trying to make a turn. When I turned the wheels all the way it didn't cruise while idling. Someone mentioned it happens to their 4x4, and this truck is a 4x4. So maybe it is normal.

I hope I added more information to those who had questions. Thank you again and I really appreciate feedback.
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Old 02-12-2022, 09:10 AM   #19
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by lestahhh View Post
Hi everyone.

Sorry for late reply. First of all, I DO have a signature! I have no idea why it doesn't show! I'm attaching a screenshot to prove that!

I can afford it bc my income is very good and I plan on paying the truck much sooner than the loan terms. I hate paying interests but at the same time I hate tying up my cash right away and bc of things in my life right now I rather not use up cash.

I plan on keeping this truck forever! Maybe hand it down to my son when he's of age. That's what I meant by at least 15 years. I'm very good about routine and preventive maintenance.

Someone mentioned certified pre-owned, I asked and they responded that they can't because they're a Nissan dealership, and it's a Ram truck.

I'm on my way right now to a CarMax for an appraisal.

Regarding my question on the wheels, it happens when trying to leave from a stopped position such as from a parking space or trying to make a turn. When I turned the wheels all the way it didn't cruise while idling. Someone mentioned it happens to their 4x4, and this truck is a 4x4. So maybe it is normal.

I hope I added more information to those who had questions. Thank you again and I really appreciate feedback.
You do NOT have a signature, even though you've "created one" several times....

When you create your signature, you have to scroll down to the bottom of that page and click on the "SAVE SIGNATURE" button, then you have go back and set your options to show the signature. You do that by clicking on "EDIT OPTIONS" (located right under the "EDIT SIGNATURE" tab, and then scroll down to THREAD DISPLAY OPTIONS and check the box that says, "SHOW SIGNATURES". You might also want to click, "SHOW AVATARS" and/or "SHOW IMAGES"... Again, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on "SAVE CHANGES"....

Yeah, I know, complicated, but if you don't tell the software what to do, it sits there, "growing mold" just like a wet trailer floor.....
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Old 02-12-2022, 09:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lestahhh View Post
...

Regarding my question on the wheels, it happens when trying to leave from a stopped position such as from a parking space or trying to make a turn. When I turned the wheels all the way it didn't cruise while idling. Someone mentioned it happens to their 4x4, and this truck is a 4x4. So maybe it is normal...
.
I can't say for sure what the issue might be with the truck, when idling, not rolling forward when the wheels are turned to the steering stops. Does the truck move forward while idling with the wheels turned "straight ahead" ???

As for being in 4x4 and the steering wheel having a "wobble at extreme angles" that is "a normal occurrance" but something to try to avoid".. What is happening is the universal joints in the front axle are "hopping as the center part binds against the cage"... If you take a 3/8" socket set universal and bend it at an extreme, it will do the same as the "rotating parts" bind at extremes"...

Also, when in 4WD, the front wheels are "tied to the rear wheels through the transfer case. If they aren't turning at the same speed (the outside wheel turns faster than the inside wheel in a turn) then the difference in wheel travel will "bind the axle" and cause the tires to "skip on the pavement" to try to equalize their travel....

As I said, it's "normal that it happens" (meaning it can be explained) but at the same time, when you experience the condition, the truck is "telling you that it's binding and the parts are under significant stress"..... Best not to "push the steering that far". I always take my truck out of 4x4 if I'm on pavement and steering at tight angles.
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