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08-30-2017, 05:32 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 7
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Electric Water Heater
Hello,
I have a Suburban water in my 2013 Hideout trailer. I also have Gas and Electric switches inside the trailer. I have called Suburban and I've confirmed that the model of my water heater is able to heat water on electric power (Model SW6DEL). I can heat the water using gas, but I've never been able to heat the water using electric power alone. I understand that the trailer needs to be plugged in for this to happen. I also know about the switch on the bottom left of the water heater. The people at Suburban said the switch has to be in the ON position for the electric heating element to work. I've tried to trouble shoot this myself, but I'm stumped. I thought I would ask the good people of the forum before I take it in for service. Can anyone help me with this problem or do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
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08-30-2017, 05:40 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 1,271
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__________________
Navy 1980-1984
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08-30-2017, 05:46 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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First thing to check is the breaker for the water heater. Make sure it isn't "tripped". The breaker can appear to be ON when in fact it's in "neutral" so to speak. Turn it off and then back on.
Now, you will need a Volt/Ohm meter and a basic understanding of AC voltage. With the trailer plugged in, verify 120VAC coming OUT from the breaker and that the black wire is secured to the breaker. After that, go outside to the water heater. The element is underneath the oval cover that has 3 1/4" screws holding it. Test for voltage at the connections to the element. If you have voltage then the element is shot, and the most common failure. If you DONT have voltage at the element, then UNPLUG the trailer and remove the switch at the bottom right corner. Reason I said to unplug is you don't want a possible short if the wires come off the switch. Test for voltage to the switch. If you have power then the switch is bad, next most common failure.
Report back and we can continue to "back trace", but I'm willing to bet your issue is either the switch at the water heater or the element. If it is the element, it takes a THIN WALL 1 1/2" socket to remove.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-30-2017, 06:39 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
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As a quick "double check this", the switch outside in the lower left corner of the water heater, behind the air mixer tube is installed "upside down" in other words, it must be in the "visible off position" to be on.... If you've been pushing on the top part to turn it on, you've been turning it off.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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08-30-2017, 07:23 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
As a quick "double check this", the switch outside in the lower left corner of the water heater, behind the air mixer tube is installed "upside down" in other words, it must be in the "visible off position" to be on.... If you've been pushing on the top part to turn it on, you've been turning it off.....
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Good catch! I guess I figured everybody knows that switch is upside down.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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08-30-2017, 07:51 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 7
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Thanks for your responses. ON the switch and the comment from JRTJH. The On/Off switch that is on the water tank. The "ON" is on the bottom part of the switch. Are you saying that it's installed backward and I should press the top of the button where it's labeled "OFF" ?
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08-30-2017, 08:15 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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No, you have it correct. If that switch is on, and the switch inside the trailer is on then a good guess is somebody drained the water heater at some point and left the switches on. When somebody then plugged in the power, the heating element went on without any water in the heater and it burned out the element. Easy check by making sure the trailer is unplugged, disconnect one wire to the heating element, use an ohm meter to see if there is a continuous circuit. If the element is OK then you are going to have to run down the problem as above. Best bet: burned out element if circuit breaker is on, etc., etc.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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08-31-2017, 07:07 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 7
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So, I followed the instructions above. The breaker checked out and is functioning fine. I then checked the element and I had power at the element, so that appears to be the problem. The ON/OFF switch functioned fine. In order to remove the element, I'm assuming that I would need to remove the Burner Assembly because it's right in front of the element. Is that correct? I'll need to find a really thin 1 1/2 socket to get it out of there. Thanks for everyone's help with this.
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08-31-2017, 07:16 PM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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The element is under that plastic oval cover, and you should be able to remove it without taking anything else off. Are you sure your testing the electrical element? Should have two wires with eyes to secure with screws.
The reason for a thin wall socket is the socket has to fit past the part that the cover screws onto. I got mine at Auto Zone and then just used 120 grit sandpaper to make the overall diameter just a bit smaller. IIRC I chucked it up in my drill press and held the paper against it.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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09-01-2017, 03:56 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 7
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Thanks Chuckster. Yes, I did test the electrical element. It does have the two screws and I double checked with the parts list in my owners manual. It's just that the burner assembly is right in front and there's very little room behind it. I was hoping to post a picture, but I don't see an option for that. I will figure it out somehow. Thanks for your help on this.
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09-01-2017, 04:38 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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Your welcome. I use a 1/2" drive socket and a wobble extension if I remember right. Been a while since I did one.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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