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07-09-2016, 10:58 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Post Falls
Posts: 424
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A winterizing question.
Just curious why during the winterizing there is the putting antifreeze in the lines? After opening the low points and draining, and I am guessing blowing out the system, why do you then add the antifreeze back in... Is it just an added precaution?
And I will add that we will be at 0* for a few days every winter. Sometimes a bit less.
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Rick and Patti
both now happily retired
2002 Chevrolet Silverado LT 2500 HD
8.1 / Allison / Long bed / Crew Cab
2016 Keystone Cougar 284RDB
GOOOOO MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY BOBCATS
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07-09-2016, 11:44 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Mass
Posts: 102
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For me the $6 for anti freeze is extra protection. Makes me feel better.
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07-09-2016, 12:15 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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It also protects the traps and drain valves from damage and smells from reaching the cabin of the trailer. JM2¢, Hank
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Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-09-2016, 12:26 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Las Cruces
Posts: 4,665
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For some, it's added protection and almost necessary. In colder climates where they get hard freezing for several months, any amount of water that may be left behind could still cause problems. In warmer climates, maybe not needed, but it's still good in the traps.
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Brent
2013 Alpine 3500RE
2019 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
U.S. Air Force Retired (25 yrs)
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07-11-2016, 02:45 PM
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#5
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 512
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If you were able to purge all water from you entire system, no antifreeze would be required. In reality, getting 100% of the water out is almost impossible. Injecting antifreeze into the system is easy: you hook your water pump up to the antifreeze and send it on its way.
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07-11-2016, 04:43 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 3,153
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Some people blow out the lines, some pump antifreeze in and some do both. Does not take much longer to do both. Also, there are some who pump the antifreeze in and then drain it before the winter. I blow out the lines first as I find it easier to pump in the antifreeze.
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2013 Premier 31BHPR
2014 F350 6.2L
Soon to be just DW and I
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07-12-2016, 02:57 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Upper Midwest
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryWT
Some people blow out the lines, some pump antifreeze in and some do both. Does not take much longer to do both. Also, there are some who pump the antifreeze in and then drain it before the winter. I blow out the lines first as I find it easier to pump in the antifreeze.
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Can you explain why it is easier?
I had the same question as the OP, once everything is drained, water residue should only be a problem when there is no room for expansion right? I can understand that is may be lodged in the pump unless one runs it for a few seconds dry.
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2016 Passport 217EXP
2016 Silverado CC 1500
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07-12-2016, 03:51 AM
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#8
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankintu
Can you explain why it is easier?
I had the same question as the OP, once everything is drained, water residue should only be a problem when there is no room for expansion right? I can understand that is may be lodged in the pump unless one runs it for a few seconds dry.
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When water expands as it freezes, it expands in all directions... not just where there is room. Just because you have "room for expansion" doesn't mean damage will not occur. A line with a sag in it will have water in that low area. That is where a problem can result.
Draining lines then pumping anti-freeze through the system is quick, easy and safe.
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07-12-2016, 05:04 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Upper Midwest
Posts: 65
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Your right, it is about the volume and surface area physics. Why then take the chance that it may cause problems. Thank again folks.
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2016 Passport 217EXP
2016 Silverado CC 1500
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07-12-2016, 05:46 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankintu
Your right, it is about the volume and surface area physics. Why then take the chance that it may cause problems. Thank again folks.
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The properties of RV antifreeze and water differ. When water freezes, it expands and becomes a solid. When RV antifreeze reaches its "freezing point" (yes, it does freeze) it does not expand and it becomes a "slush solution". As such, by not expanding during the process, it doesn't put pressure on the inside of your plumbing fixtures and your PEX tubing, so there is less potential for damage.
It is extremely difficult (sometimes nearly impossible) to remove all the water from the plumbing lines and fixtures. In extremely cold climates, any amount of water that might remain trapped in a faucet valve, a water pump head, a "dip" in a PEX line, even the water that remains in the drain valve or drain cap on the fresh water tank and low point drains can destroy those components by the expansion of a small amount of water that might remain after "blowing out the lines".
The reason I use compressed air prior to antifreeze is to remove as much of the water as possible. By doing so, I assure the "strongest antifreeze solution" without having to use excessive antifreeze to purge the lines and displace all the water that is normally in the lines after opening the low point drains. This saves a significant amount of antifreeze and doesn't "dilute" the solution.
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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