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Old 05-05-2014, 08:12 AM   #1
LateArrivalforLSU
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Just Setup My New Avalanche 361TG...A/C Questions

Hello to all. First post here.

I've got a few questions regarding the two A/C units that came with my Avalanche 361TG 5th wheel. I have one unit mounted in the bunk room and another unit mounted in the master bedroom. Both units have a ceiling register type of deal with sliders that will allow the air to blow straight down (see attached pic), or you can close the sliders and the air will be directed straight into the central ducts.

A few questions....there are two thermostats (naturally). One for the A/C unit in the bunk room, and one for the A/C unit in the master bedroom. One thermostat is mounted on the wall of the master bedroom, and the other thermostat is mounted in the hall right outside the master bedroom. Where is the temperature sensor for each thermostat location? Also, the A/C unit in the bunk room runs waaaaay (so far, non-stop) more than the one in the master bedroom. Why is that? If they are both taking temperatures from a location close to one another it seems that both units would cycle on/off at about the same time.

Next thing....the slider register things that will allow the air to be dumped straight down. I'm not interested in using those. Problem is, when I close them off, the air still seeps out around the top perimeter edge of the white bracket that is mounted against the ceiling. Have any of you made a "box" that closes in the area to where the air will blow (without leakage) directly into the ductways? What about the volume of air that blows out of the A/C vents throughout the trailer? Do y'all get a high volume of air being blown out, or not?

I think that's all that I can think of, for now
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:49 AM   #2
Festus2
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Some members have found that the ductwork on their A/C's leaves something to be desired. After removing the interior cover/faceplate on the main A/C, some have discovered that the main duct was not properly attached to the unit and a significant amount of cool air was being blown into the attic. After resealing/reattaching the duct, the air flow improved significantly.

You might also want to remove and have a look at the ductwork at each of the vents along the course of the ducts and see if the duct has separated from there as well.

Since you didn't mention if the airflow in your unit was lacking or was ok, I am assuming that you think it is not what it should be.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:52 AM   #3
LateArrivalforLSU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
I am assuming that you think it is not what it should be.
Unfortunately, you assumed correctly

So far, I'm a little disappointed. The rear A/C hasn't shutoff yet today. It's not even hot yet down here in south Louisiana.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:12 AM   #4
Bob Landry
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I can only reiterate what Festus said, Keystone(and most others) do an extremely poor job at installing air conditioners and ductwork. You should not feel air leaking past the plastic frame. It should be going into the ceiling duct via the plenum chamber or down through the lower unit vents.
Go to Home Depot and buy a roll of aluminum duct tape. You are going to need it.
First, drop the lower cover and inspect. The plenum should be taped so that all of the air is directed into the duct when the vents are closed, no gaps. if you see any tape them up. With the lower cover off, turn the unit on and stick your hand up in the return air side(obviously being careful). You should not feel any cold air in that section, only in the discharge side. If you feel ANY cold air, it is leaking from the discharge side.Tape up any leaks.
Pull each one of the ceiling registers and make sure there are no open gaps where cold air could be blown into the ceiling. It's not going to do you any good in there. The usual procedure for installing registers is to just hack a big hole for the register and slap it in, leaving gaps that leak air.
Finally, find the end register.They are oriented in a string. After the last one, block off the duct so that the last thing the cold air "sees" is the register and not the end of a long duct where it will do nothing. After you do this, revaluate your AC system and I think you will see a noticeable difference, especially with a two AC setup.

On your thermostats.. Unless something has been changed that I'm unaware of, the temperature sensing is all done at the wall thermostats. The fact that they are located in close proximity is irrelevant as there are factors controlling the air that gets to them, and that's what is being sensed.

You are going to ask why not have the dealer do all of this under warranty. The reason is that the dealer is not going to do anything to a standard of excellence. Once they think it meets factory specs, your trailer is out of there and they are on the next job. The dealer isn't making a lot of money on warranty work, so they aren't going to spend a lot of time on it. It's all about economics. You will do a better job and in the end will probably learn something about your trailer.. Hope this helps.. Geaux Tigers..
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:15 AM   #5
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Think I've found some of the problem......a ton of cold air is going up through the return air. I'm going to get some aluminum duct tape and get this sucker sealed off so all of the air is being forced into the ducts Thanks Bob, and Geaux Tigers.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:30 AM   #6
LateArrivalforLSU
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Where can I buy some of this thick insulating type of material (see picture) that they use to divide the plenum and return air? I need some of it to completely block off where the air is discharged so all of it goes in the ducts.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:07 AM   #7
LateArrivalforLSU
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What a difference aluminum duct tape and attention to detail makes. Sealed off the discharge side completely to wear it blows only into the duct inlets. The air blows much harder throughout the trailer and the units themselves are much quieter without all of the air leaking out of the discharge side. I have no idea how that could have passed inspection.

There were huge leaks underneath the dividing partition that was being sucked into the intake and discharge air leaking all around the top where the plastic piece mounts against the ceiling. Anyway, it's fixed, and more importantly, it's fixed the right way. Now, I just need the cuts on my knuckles and fingers to heal up from the sheet metal and aluminum tape
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Old 10-01-2014, 06:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LateArrivalforLSU View Post
What a difference aluminum duct tape and attention to detail makes. Sealed off the discharge side completely to wear it blows only into the duct inlets. The air blows much harder throughout the trailer and the units themselves are much quieter without all of the air leaking out of the discharge side. I have no idea how that could have passed inspection.

There were huge leaks underneath the dividing partition that was being sucked into the intake and discharge air leaking all around the top where the plastic piece mounts against the ceiling. Anyway, it's fixed, and more importantly, it's fixed the right way. Now, I just need the cuts on my knuckles and fingers to heal up from the sheet metal and aluminum tape
I know this thread is a bit old but can you tell me if your AC was less noisy after you did your repairs? Thanks.
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