Blowing Site 30 AMP Circuit breakers

[bdmeyer]

I'm new to RV'ing, and just bought a Premier.
On my first two trips, The Air Conditioner keeps kicking out.
I figured out on the second trip, that when I have the AC on and the Fridge on AUTO (So electric when plugged into shore power, I assume) that the 30 am Circuit breaker outside keeps tripping. I thought maybe the circuit breaker was bad, so I plugged into the 20 am, which would blow more frequently. When I turned the fridge to GAS, the Air Conditioner never blew. I thought that the trailer should be able to run all inbuilt electrical systems without exceeding the 30 amp max.

I am wondering if there may be a problem and I need to haul it back to the dealer or not. Does anyone know?

I am not using non-trailer electrical items except for a Winegard satellite dish. (So no toasters, blow dryers, arc welders etc)

Thanks for any advice.
-= Bruce

[SummitPond]

What is your water heater running on, gas or electric? It draws quite a bit of current when running on electric. We have successfully run our A/C and fridge on electric, along with the stereo and lights (which are 12V but draw from the converter) but that's about the limit. If you are going to use the microwave, the A/C has to be shut off (this assumes the water heater is off or running on gas). If you have a coffee maker (as the DW does) the A/C has to be turned off as well as the electric to the water heater. The total possible electric load of the trailer is greater than 30 amps, so you have to manage what is running at the same time.

We recently installed a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C; it's a surge suppressor and power monitor that has a display panel that reads out your shore power voltage, frequency and current usage. There are plenty of other threads on the benefits of this device (we had a polarity reversal at one of the campgrounds and this saved us), but as an added benefit you can use it to manage your electric load.

Others will chime in with their experience; that's one of the great things about this forum.

Congratulations on your new TT. Enjoy it. Happy holiday.

[Frank G]

There could be many issues. Did you try another 30 Amp outlet? Could be a bad circuit breaker or a low voltage situation. This is where a quality power analyzer comes into play. You know, the ones that plug into the pedestal before your RV plug. (so much to learn)

In round numbers the AC pulls 15 amps, Fridge 6 amps, Satellite system ?? So... with a 30amp system you are somewhat limited but they normally work out just fine. If you had a bad appliance it should show up elseware in the system.

Good Luck, Keep us posted, Happy 4th

[Frank G]

That water heater thing can be tricky, most water heaters can be run on electric and or gas. On some water heaters the electric switch is located outside hidden behind the burner tube and not well marked. The lower left hand corner.

[bdmeyer]

I'll pull up the user manuals on the devices in the TT and write down the various current draws. Without thinking it through, I had thought the TT would be able to handle water, fridge and AC at the same time. I will look into the Power Monitor. I do have a Surge protector that checks for reverse polarity, and other wiring faults but it doesn't display power usage. I did consider that the Circuit breaker on the pedestal was flakey, and plugged into the 20 amp breaker which tripped even more frequently.
Thank-You both for the education.
-= Bruce

[Frank G]

Do not get discouraged, in our previous unit with 30 amp service we lived in it for 6 weeks. ran heat or AC as required, WH and fridge on electric. We used all the other stuff at will, coffee maker, toaster, combination (electric) oven microwave, TV, hair dryer, curling iron. Never once popped a circuit breaker. Oh and we had a Insta Pot. Best corned beef and cabbage ever.

[BrentB]

Maybe this will help:

AIR CONDITIONER - COLEMAN MACH 13,500 BTU (RUN) 13.50-16.25 AMPS
AIR CONDITIONER - COLEMAN MACH 13,500 BTU (START UP) 15.75-16.25 AMPS*
BLENDER (ESTIMATED 300-400W) 2.50-3.50 AMPS
COFFEE MAKER (ESTIMATED 1000-1300W) 7.00-11.00 AMPS
CONVERTER - SINGLE 45 AMPS (IOTA 750W) 5.00-6.25 AMPS
CURLING IRON (ESTIMATED 50-100W) .50-1.00 AMPS
ELECTRIC BLANKET (ESTIMATED 150-200W) 1.25-1.75 AMPS
ELECTRIC FAN - PORTABLE (ESTIMATED125-175W) 1.00-1.50 AMPS
ELECTRIC FRYING PAN (ESTIMATED 1000-1200W) 8.50-10.00 AMPS
HAIR DRYER (ESTIMATED 1000-1900W) 8.50-16.00 AMPS
HOME THEATER SYSTEM (EXECUTIVE 128W, MEMOREX 133W) 1.25-1.75 AMPS
LAPTOP COMPUTER CHARGER (ESTIMATED 25-75W) .25-75 AMPS
MICROWAVE OVEN (900-1500W) 7.50-12.50 AMPS
RADIO (ESTIMATED 10-35 W) .10-.30 AMPS
REFRIGERATOR - RV GAS/ELECTRIC (NORCOLD #611 300W, #821 300W) (ESTIMATED
250-350W)
2.00-3.00 AMPS
SATELLITE RECEIVER (ESTIMATED 50-150W) .50-1.25 AMPS
STEAM IRON (ESTIMATED 1000-1500W) 8.50-12.50 AMPS
TELEVISION (ESTIMATED 65-2100W) .50-2.00 AMPS
TOASTER (ESTIMATED 1000-1500W) 8.50-12.50 AMPS
TOASTER OVEN (ESTIMATED 1100-1600W) 9.25-13.50 AMPS
VCR (ESTIMATED 25-75W) .25-75 AMPS
WATER HEATER - RV GAS/ELECTRIC (ATWOOD 11.66 AMPS) 11.75-12.25 AMPS

[bdmeyer]

That is super helpful.
I just did some math. Using the MAX estimate for the 14 most likely items I might want to use, the draw would be 106.55 Amps.
Selecting the most common, it was still 42.05. (Air Conditioner, Radio, Refrigerator, Satellite receiver, TV, Water heater, Laptop Charger, Convertor)
Knowing this, I can intelligently select what needs to be on Electric and gas.
Thank-You for sharing.

[JRTJH]

It most definitely takes some "power management" to prevent overloading a 30 amp trailer. But, when you think about it, most houses are on a 200 or 225 amp system. If you have electric heat, water heater and air conditioning along with all the other system power users, it's very easy to get upwards of 350 to 400 amps. Fortunately, we never turn on everything at one time. It's just a "closer tolerance to overload" when you're looking at 30 amps vs 225 amps.

[Tbos]

Welcome to the forum from Southern MD. I've found through experimentation that I can run the AC, the fridge and one other appliance. If we need to use the Microwave the WH goes off etc. Enjoy your new rig.


2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2016 F350 CC DRW

[rsl]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

It most definitely takes some "power management" to prevent overloading a 30 amp trailer. But, when you think about it, most houses are on a 200 or 225 amp system. If you have electric heat, water heater and air conditioning along with all the other system power users, it's very easy to get upwards of 350 to 400 amps. Fortunately, we never turn on everything at one time. It's just a "closer tolerance to overload" when you're looking at 30 amps vs 225 amps.

But a house has 2 - 110 Volt Legs, so in a stick and brick with a "200 amp" main panel it is actually 200 amps on each leg for a total of 400 amps.
That is the same way with 50 amp RV's, 2- 110 volt legs - 50 amps each leg - total of 100 amps of capacity. But a 30 amp is only 1 -110 volt leg so a total of 30 amps.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by rsl

But a house has 2 - 110 Volt Legs, so in a stick and brick with a "200 amp" main panel it is actually 200 amps on each leg for a total of 400 amps.
That is the same way with 50 amp RV's, 2- 110 volt legs - 50 amps each leg - total of 100 amps of capacity. But a 30 amp is only 1 -110 volt leg so a total of 30 amps.

I think you missed the entire purpose of my post, but that's OK, it's July 4th and fireworks start at dusk. Happy Fourth of July.....

[rsl]

Sorry, I was just trying to clarify to house vs 30 amp comparison and reinforce the limits of the 30 amp.

[Bob Landry]

I added a second 30A service to my Outback 277RL and split the AC loads. I have a Progressive Industries energy manager and I didn't want to buy a second one, so I left the inductive loads that needed protection on the original system and put the rest on the new system. I built a breakout that plugs into a 50A pedestal and splits it into two 30A and used a Blue Sea panel with a source selector/lockout so that I can run two separate systems or combine everything into one 30A if I get caught at a campground with only 30A service.I can run the AC and make coffee while the wife dries her hair. Juggling appliances fo breakers didn't trip got old pretty quick. I also added an additional 20A input that feeds two wall outlets to run space heaters in the winter. Total service is 80A, not as good as 50A, but better than a single 30A.

[Jeepshots]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I added a second 30A service to my Outback 277RL and split the AC loads. I have a Progressive Industries energy manager and I didn't want to buy a second one, so I left the inductive loads that needed protection on the original system and put the rest on the new system. I built a breakout that plugs into a 50A pedestal and splits it into two 30A and used a Blue Sea panel with a source selector/lockout so that I can run two separate systems or combine everything into one 30A if I get caught at a campground with only 30A service.I can run the AC and make coffee while the wife dries her hair. Juggling appliances fo breakers didn't trip got old pretty quick. I also added an additional 20A input that feeds two wall outlets to run space heaters in the winter. Total service is 80A, not as good as 50A, but better than a single 30A.

I've wondered about doing something like this. And another thing - If we have a 30A coach, it's the 30A pedestal breaker that's holding us down. What if we plug into the 50A pedestal breaker via a 50-30 dogbone? Do we now have 50A capability on the line in? Or is a 50A pedestal breaker really two 25A breakers, and i'd be just shooting myself in the foot to try it... ?

[Johnny's Journey]

^^^^^ Yes each line is 50. I hope this link is acceptable. http://www.dasplace.net/RVWiring/14-50.gif

[Bob Landry]

Originally Posted by Jeepshots

I've wondered about doing something like this. And another thing - If we have a 30A coach, it's the 30A pedestal breaker that's holding us down. What if we plug into the 50A pedestal breaker via a 50-30 dogbone? Do we now have 50A capability on the line in? Or is a 50A pedestal breaker really two 25A breakers, and i'd be just shooting myself in the foot to try it... ?

You are still limited to 30 amps, as the trailer's power panel has 30A breakers on the AC panel.
You could convert your 30A service to 50A but it would be a pretty complex task for someone with limited electrical knowledge and skills.
Larger rigs with 50A service actually have 100A because it's comprised of two legs of 125V/50A.
Under no conditions should you try to plug directly into a 50A outlet. That will get real expensive, real quick.

[ctbruce]

Originally Posted by Johnny's Journey

^^^^^ Yes each line is 50. I hope this link is acceptable. http://www.dasplace.net/RVWiring/14-50.gif

Perfect. [emoji106]

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