Everything 12V in master is controlled off single switch?

Neo1130 · 04-03-2023, 07:24 AM

Picked up a 2022 291UBH this weekend and was messing around trying to check if everything still worked...

Lights were off and I tried to start the A/C in the master bedroom. However, the thermostat was blank... Okay... Weird... I have shore power and 12V works but no display! Was thinking it was the thermostat or wiring so I turned on the lights and voila! The display worked. Shut the lights off and the thermostat goes out...

This means that I have to shut off ALL the lights independently if I want to run the A/C while we sleep. I'd rather shut the lights off with the switch, but that isn't how it's hooked up. Does this sound right? If it is, I'd like to try and wire the A/C differently. Just seems very odd to have all the 12V systems on one switch.

wiredgeorge · 04-03-2023, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neo1130

Picked up a 2022 291UBH this weekend and was messing around trying to check if everything still worked...

Lights were off and I tried to start the A/C in the master bedroom. However, the thermostat was blank... Okay... Weird... I have shore power and 12V works but no display! Was thinking it was the thermostat or wiring so I turned on the lights and voila! The display worked. Shut the lights off and the thermostat goes out...

This means that I have to shut off ALL the lights independently if I want to run the A/C while we sleep. I'd rather shut the lights off with the switch, but that isn't how it's hooked up. Does this sound right? If it is, I'd like to try and wire the A/C differently. Just seems very odd to have all the 12V systems on one switch.

Kyle, keep in mind that Keystone has MANY product lines. I have no idea what a 291UBH is. Best to put the model line in your profile & put together a signature. I dislike having to do research to determine what camper is being discussed.

The thermostat only coming on when the lights are on is a wiring mistake. If still under warranty, get the dealer to fix this issue and if not find a 12V wire that doesn't go through the light switch (always hot) and connect to the thermostat. Since I am not familiar with your camper I can't suggest where this wire might come from but someone may know. Good luck.

**JRTJH** · 04-03-2023, 08:00 AM

I believe your trailer has a "conventional switch panel" (not InCommand) located just inside the entry door and the thermostat is located just above that panel ????

If so, I'd suspect that when the trailer wiring was connected to that panel, the 12 VDC power to the thermostat was "plugged into the wrong side of that light switch".... In other words, the thermostat 12 volt power is connected to the "switched side" of that light switch rather than to the "hot side" of the switch.

If you pull the panel, chances are you'll see one wire on the "hot" side of the light switch and two wires on the "switched" side. I'd consider just moving the thermostat jumper from the "switched side to the hot side"... That'll give you continuous power to the thermostat with the light switch turned on or off....

Neo1130 · 04-03-2023, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Kyle, keep in mind that Keystone has MANY product lines. I have no idea what a 291UBH is. Best to put the model line in your profile & put together a signature. I dislike having to do research to determine what camper is being discussed.

The thermostat only coming on when the lights are on is a wiring mistake. If still under warranty, get the dealer to fix this issue and if not find a 12V wire that doesn't go through the light switch (always hot) and connect to the thermostat. Since I am not familiar with your camper I can't suggest where this wire might come from but someone may know. Good luck.

Noted, will add that... Profile should have that info but I'll add to my signature as well... I do believe it to be a wiring mistake... I'm not afraid of electrical as I worked on some pretty complex radar systems in the military for a bit. The only thing I DON'T like to do is structural or trim work. If I have to pull crap apart, it better be with screws and removable panels. LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I believe your trailer has a "conventional switch panel" (not InCommand) located just inside the entry door and the thermostat is located just above that panel ????

If so, I'd suspect that when the trailer wiring was connected to that panel, the 12 VDC power to the thermostat was "plugged into the wrong side of that light switch".... In other words, the thermostat 12 volt power is connected to the "switched side" of that light switch rather than to the "hot side" of the switch.

If you pull the panel, chances are you'll see one wire on the "hot" side of the light switch and two wires on the "switched" side. I'd consider just moving the thermostat jumper from the "switched side to the hot side"... That'll give you continuous power to the thermostat with the light switch turned on or off....

There is a main switch panel in the door, but the switch I am referring to is inside of the master bedroom. That makes PERFECT sense that they intended to go to the hot side of the switch, vs the switched side. I'll swap the wires when I get home tonight.

I've got plenty of taps and all, if nothing at home will work, I can use something from work here. I design and make harnesses for a living so I have no problem digging into wiring.

Neo1130 · 04-05-2023, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

If so, I'd suspect that when the trailer wiring was connected to that panel, the 12 VDC power to the thermostat was "plugged into the wrong side of that light switch".... In other words, the thermostat 12 volt power is connected to the "switched side" of that light switch rather than to the "hot side" of the switch.

Thanks again for the reminder that new products aren't always correct! I re-wired the thermostat last night from the switched side, to the hot side. Everything works perfect now...

**JRTJH** · 04-05-2023, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neo1130

Thanks again for the reminder that new products aren't always correct! I re-wired the thermostat last night from the switched side, to the hot side. Everything works perfect now...

YIPPEEEEE !!!!! Just goes to prove that even a "blind hog can sometimes find an acorn" LOL

Seriously though, glad it's working and your problem is fixed....

Neo1130 · 04-05-2023, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

YIPPEEEEE !!!!! Just goes to prove that even a "blind hog can sometimes find an acorn" LOL

Seriously though, glad it's working and your problem is fixed....

My current task now is to figure out the leak under my bed. Glad I pulled the cover to the water pump to check things out cause it was soaked in there, under the bed and front storage compartment. The water access door is leaking and they didn't caulk it off completely so the past week with massive rains has drenched everything. So it's been a chore finding the right weather strip. Everything I've tried for a local source was too thick and won't allow the door to close without forcing it. So it's a TEMP fix and I have the right stuff on the way. Now to figure out to caulk the water manifold box... Got some tight spaced where I cannot get caulk gun in there... So I'm gonna spread it with my fingers instead of straight out of the gun... Joys of owning a trailer huh? At least I know it's getting done right by doing it myself... I have very little faith in any dealers and their techs. Can explain further if needed but it's going to be literal pages worth of info...

wiredgeorge · 04-05-2023, 03:18 PM

Kyle, The water access door. Can it be removed? My water access is via a panel back on the driver side at the rear. It is held by 8 screws (Robertson). I changed mine awhile back and used butyl tape under the edge. I get the sense that your access is on one of those "convenience centers" behind a door? If so, can you remove the panel? On my camper the city water inlet is via plastic hose to the water pump. It uses compression fittings. My fresh water hose is plastic and looks like a small vacuum cleaner hose and is held on by radiator type hose clamps. I would check the connections if possible.

jasin1 · 04-05-2023, 03:33 PM

i agree with George…it probably is just rain but whenever i’m sure of something and don’t look at all the possibilities i get burned..could be loose hoses or fittings on pump leaking when the pump come on

Neo1130 · 04-06-2023, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Kyle, The water access door. Can it be removed? My water access is via a panel back on the driver side at the rear. It is held by 8 screws (Robertson). I changed mine awhile back and used butyl tape under the edge. I get the sense that your access is on one of those "convenience centers" behind a door? If so, can you remove the panel? On my camper the city water inlet is via plastic hose to the water pump. It uses compression fittings. My fresh water hose is plastic and looks like a small vacuum cleaner hose and is held on by radiator type hose clamps. I would check the connections if possible.

Yes, it's the convenience center type with 4 colorful valves that need to be switched for whatever type of source or task you are doing. The door cannot be removed unfortunately. It is a riveted hinge. I should also drill some drain holes because they mounted the door SIDEWAYS and the factory drains are now on the side of the door instead of the bottom...

The caulking around the door frame itself is tight and very well sealed. It wasn't installed exactly flush/plumb so there are gaps in the sealing area.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasin1

i agree with George…it probably is just rain but whenever i’m sure of something and don’t look at all the possibilities i get burned..could be loose hoses or fittings on pump leaking when the pump come on

Yes, that is how I found it was the door. I pressurized the lines and turned the pump on, went through all the motions and configurations on the valves. No trace of water from any of the fittings. As soon as I went outside to inspect, you could SEE a gap between the door and the weather stripping. Following the trail of water confirmed that the leak was from the door as it was gathering on the inside lip of the door frame, leaking down into the water hookup area... At the bottom of the water hookup, there was about 3" of caulking that was not there... Followed that to the exact area I found the puddle of water on the inside... I am 99.99875% sure this is my leak. But there is that small percentage it could be something else, but doubtful.

Neo1130 · 04-07-2023, 07:46 AM

So it appears that my baggage door leak was only half fixed. The door seals completely now, maybe a little TOO good because the seal I got was rather thick and takes some force to close the door. I am replacing it with something thinner this weekend...

BUT, I still had water in the compartment yesterday. The lip that goes around the door itself is allowing water to puddle up and drip OVER the seal. This is because they mounted the door sideways and didn't drill new drain holes. So the water had two places to enter and I only fixed one. I am in the process of moving and packed my drill bits away (okay the wife did that) so I will be getting a new set of bits and drilling the holes for drainage. Gotta love the multiple leaks in one area!

wiredgeorge · 04-07-2023, 07:50 AM

Kyle, Can you post a picture of the door and the way it is hung/mounted?

Neo1130 · 04-07-2023, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Kyle, Can you post a picture of the door and the way it is hung/mounted?

When I get home from work, I'll give it a shot. Hopefully the mobile version of this site is easy to use as I have only ever used a PC to post...

Happy that we have to only work 4 hours on Friday. Got 1.5 left and then another hour drive home. Should be up in a couple hours...

Neo1130 · 04-07-2023, 10:54 AM

Here are the pictures. Door isn't centered in the hole unfortunately but the seal I put in, was adjusted to compensate. I'll be redoing the seal again because this one is too thick.

**chuckster57** · 04-08-2023, 09:18 AM

Seals will compress over time, if it isnt overly hard to shut and lock I would leave it alone.

Neo1130 · 04-10-2023, 05:10 PM

It is very difficult to lock. Actually increases the shifting of the door to one side.

However, my leak was definitely from not having drain holes drilled in the door bottom. Bone dry even though it's been pouring down rain the past 3 days. Not a single drop of water... Still have to caulk the box though so IF another leak appears or IF I have an overflow event while filling, it'll just go out the bottom and not under the bed or storage area.

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