Need New Batteries, Have Questions???

[Dan Lockwood]

I have a '12 model Raptor 395LEV. It has two 12v batteries upfront in the battery compartment. I have upgraded my RV with a 65 watt solar panel that I mount on the front of the pin box for storage purposes only. When the unit is in my driveway, it's hooked up to 50 amp shore power. Any other time it will be at a full hookup park, no boondocking for us. Although it does have a 5500 Cummins/Onan generator installed, but that's another story.

When I check the batteries with the Lippert auto level system volt meter, the best I get is 12.7v. If I'm hooked up to shore power the same meter reads 13.8v. If I try to run just off the RV batteries, it will drop quickly to around 11.5v and the Lippert will power down for low voltage.

Sorry for the background info.

My question is this, do I get two more 12v batteries or do I get two 6v batteries and hook them in series?

I'm confident that my solar is working because without it, I'm sure my two Interstate batteries would be toast in storage.

I did a search for battery, but found LOTS threads of unrelated to my needs.

I thought I read that Walmart had a group 24 battery that people recommended. Do I need deep cycle or just a "good" quality 12v group 24 battery(s)? Not sure what model Interstate is in it now. They were probably not that good when I purchased the RV as it was powering down the Lippert even then when no additional power source was hooked up.

Thoughts, suggestions?

Thanks!

[JRTJH]

First, an explanation of what voltages you are currently reading:

When you are plugged into shore power, the voltmeter reads 13.8 VDC. When you're disconnected the "best" is 12.7 VDC and the voltage quickly drops to 11.5 VDC.

Interpreting that, when you are connected to shore power, you're reading the converter/charger output voltage. At 13.8 volts, that signifies the converter is sensing a "DISCHARGED" battery and is in the "boost phase"...

When you disconnect, the battery reads 12,7 which is typical for a fully charged battery. The fact that it quickly drops to 11.5 volts tells me the battery bank is not holding a charge, probably from a dead cell or maybe two (depending on how many batteries you have in the bank)..

Recommendations: I'd "cut to the chase" and completely rule out anything WalMart has in stock in the stores. They are all "hybrid batteries" and are no better than what you currently have... If the battery you're considering has CCA on the case, rule it out and keep shopping.... That is a "hybrid" designed for marine use with an outboard (high cold cranking amps) and a trolling motor (amp hour rating).... They are "designed to meet two requirements, but do neither very well....

I'd recommend a separate 12 volt starting battery for your generator and a pair of GC2 golf cart batteries for your trailer electrical system. You can buy them at Sam's Club for $89 each with a 1 year warranty. COSTCO sells Interstate GC2 batteries for $99 each but they only carry a 90 day warranty with COSTCO.

If I were you, I'd not even consider a 12 volt "hybrid battery" system for an RV.

[Dan Lockwood]

John, thanks.

I only have room for two batteries in the front battery area. The other room in there is taken up with all the hydraulics for the leveling system.

My thoughts initially were to just redo what I have, two 12v batteries. As I said, I do not use the RV for any type of boondocking and if I did, I would probably run the generator more anyway.

The Interstate batteries have Marine/RV HD24-DP 405 CCA 505 MCA

If these would hold a charge, they would probably be good enough in "new state".

But again, just wondering what others in my situation are doing.

Thanks John for sharing your experience!

[tech740]

If you can find them,

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...24DC/139801236

usually Walmart has pretty fresh batteries because they move alot of inventory. If I remember correctly they are east penn batteries so the same as Die hard and Deka, Napa etc....

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Dan Lockwood

John, thanks.

I only have room for two batteries in the front battery area. The other room in there is taken up with all the hydraulics for the leveling system.

My thoughts initially were to just redo what I have, two 12v batteries. As I said, I do not use the RV for any type of boondocking and if I did, I would probably run the generator more anyway.

The Interstate batteries have Marine/RV HD24-DP 405 CCA 505 MCA

If these would hold a charge, they would probably be good enough in "new state".

But again, just wondering what others in my situation are doing.

Thanks John for sharing your experience!

I use Interstate "hybrid" batteries as well. Don't know which model just told the Interstate store to give me the best they had. I do not boondock any longer...at all. If I did I would have the 6V batteries. Since I've stopped boondocking the 12v batteries (2) have never given me a problem. I do replace them every 3-4 years before they have a chance to give me grief, or, if the dealer lets them discharge at the dealership.

[JRTJH]

Dan,

I agree with Danny and RJ. If you're not going to do any boondocking, then no need for a "heavy duty battery system". A couple of GP24 hybrid batteries will be OK for your purposes, just remember, IF YOU LET THEM DISCHARGE AND DIE, then all bets are off that they'll ever have the ability to power your trailer again... Hybrid batteries are designed to be discharged to about 70% then recharged, not discharged to 20 or 30% as in dry camping situations... They are sort of like your truck battery. Slight discharge during starting, then the alternator recharges it and the battery never gets below 90%....

So, with that in mind, I'd have your current batteries load tested (I'm almost positive they are bad) and replace them with a couple of "high grade GP24 RV/Marine batteries. Just remember to keep them charged above 70% and you'll be fine "from campground power outlet to campground power outlet"...

[ChuckS]

I have two GC2 batteries mounted side by side in my battery compartment in the hydraulic area.. I would measure the battery tray space and if you can fit two GC2 batteries in place you will have stout batteries.. the lalt3s are twice as large as any Grp 24, 29, etc...

Simply wire the two batteries in series for 12 volts. The batteries will outlast any conventional flooded 12 volt RV battery on the market

I’d also check the ground cable that runs from battery to chassis and remove it and clean terminal end and the frame area .. since it’s a 2012 you may very well have a poor ground that will contribute to your voltage drop..

When I run the hydraulic system with no shore power the voltage ... read directly at the dual polarity solenoid never drops below 12.3 during six point hyd leveler auto level or extending the hyd slide outs.

I’d also. Considering the RVs age open up the power center panel inside where DC fuses are at and tighten all screws on the DC BUS bar..any loose connection here will also cause a voltage drop once a load is placed on the BUS

[Javi]

I would recommend these... and if you have the room I'd go with the series 27 it'll make a real difference to your 12 volt motors..

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/...ies/deep-cycle