Adding Washer & Dryer - 240 volt ?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by cavie

This is the first time in 5 years that I have heard of this configuration.

The RV Comfort Systems electric RV furnace conversion kit has been available for at least the last 7 or 8 years. It's a "add on kit" that allows an RV furnace to provide heat using propane or electricity. The kit comes in three "wattage sizes, 1800 watts (120 VAC) and 3750 or 5000 watts (240 VAC).

Those three kits, two of which require 240 VAC in the RV to function have been in use for years.

Wiring 240 volts (2 legs of 120 VAC) in an RV is no different than wiring 240 volts (2 legs of 120 VAC) in a "stick built house".... In any trailer with "2 legs of 120 VAC at the trailer power center" it's nothing more than "wiring changes" to obtain the voltage..... Now, staying with codes will mean using "approved procedures and sub-panels". Any RV with a 50 amp power cord already has "240 capability" wired in from the factory, it just needs to be properly accessed at the power center.

That said, there have been travel trailers and fifth wheels with 240 VAC power for at least the last 10 years.

Here's the link to the furnace conversion kits, something many "full timers who use a lot of propane" might want to consider, not for money savings, but for the convenience of not running out of propane on Christmas Eve with a snowstorm forecast for Christmas Day. https://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/add-on-system

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

The RV Comfort Systems electric RV furnace conversion kit has been available for at least the last 7 or 8 years. It's a "add on kit" that allows an RV furnace to provide heat using propane or electricity. The kit comes in three "wattage sizes, 1800 watts (120 VAC) and 3750 or 5000 watts (240 VAC).

Those three kits, two of which require 240 VAC in the RV to function have been in use for years.

Wiring 240 volts (2 legs of 120 VAC) in an RV is no different than wiring 240 volts (2 legs of 120 VAC) in a "stick built house".... In any trailer with "2 legs of 120 VAC at the trailer power center" it's nothing more than "wiring changes" to obtain the voltage..... Now, staying with codes will mean using "approved procedures and sub-panels". Any RV with a 50 amp power cord already has "240 capability" wired in from the factory, it just needs to be properly accessed at the power center.

That said, there have been travel trailers and fifth wheels with 240 VAC power for at least the last 10 years.

Here's the link to the furnace conversion kits, something many "full timers who use a lot of propane" might want to consider, not for money savings, but for the convenience of not running out of propane on Christmas Eve with a snowstorm forecast for Christmas Day. https://www.rvcomfortsystems.com/add-on-system

John, good post on “RV Comfort Systems “ add on system. We have been using this system for about four years and love it. The initial cost isn’t all that cheap, but no space heaters to trip over and no propane usage.
They now offer an auto switch over from 30 amp 120 volt to 50 amp 240 volt. I use to do a 20 minute rewire job to switch back and forth, now it switches automatically from 1,800 watts to for us 5,000 watts.
One of the best full time upgrades I did to our 5er.

ON EDIT: It was always just one system, it was just wired differently depending on what amperage and voltage you wanted to use. When on 1,800 watts it takes a bit of time to raise the interior temp at 30 degrees outside, at this point I will switch to gas to raise temp then switch back to electric to maintain.

[RubyCJ]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Jim the washer is a Splendide ARWXF129W and dryer a D-TVM63X from memory. I believe those are now obsolete and replaced with DV6400X dryer and WFL1300XD washer from what I was told.

Per DW, and my seat of the pants watching her experience, trying to put in the 240V wouldn't gain you much of anything; you are still stuck with the units that have to fit inside the trailer enclosure.

Thank you, will look into the newer models and at 120/120 volt units.

[RubyCJ]

Originally Posted by gearhead

OP: does it have to be stackable? We got Magic Chef from Home Depot, regular on the floor side by side. The dryer is 120v 3.5 cubic ft. $311
Washer is 2.0 cubic ft. $269.
We added Home Depot warranty that I think was less than $75.
We've been happy with them.

Thanks, I like the price on those units much more but there's just no way to install them in the camper. May be viable if we end up using the shed though.

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by JimJan

We are looking at adding a washer and dryer as we now stay for long periods in the camper. Been reading that the combo units take many hours to run a load and the individual machines seem better.
Most of the dryers that run on 120 volts are very small. The write-ups also indicate the cycle time is 3 times longer as running on 240 volts.

Does anyone have a stackable Washer / dryer running on 120 volts that operates well with a decent load size?

Or has anyone run a 240 volt circuit from the power panel for the dryer?

Thanks for some ideas.

The Italian Splendide are the best RV W/D out there and both run on 120V.

[mgrote]

Originally Posted by JimJan

Thanks to all for the information. I am not afraid of rewiring to a sub panel if it will give an appropriate benefit. If just minimal it won't be worth it.
As for the 120V washer and 120V dryer I continue to look for one. I read about the Splendide washer that seems to need control boards replaced. May be a electric supply issue?
Danny, What model did you get?

We have a splendide wash/dry combined in one unit. I don't know if I would go that route again for two reasons. 1, brand new and never used got it set up plugged in and the damn thing shot out sparks and smoke like no other thought it was gonna burn thru the floor of the trailer before I got it unplugged. Took all summer to get it fixed and a lot of complaining for it to be covered under warranty, and yes it was the control board and a surge protector that failed. 2. It does a ****ty job of drying, clothes come out so hot they almost burn your hands and the are really wrinkled would be better off hanging to dry outside.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by JimJan

We are looking at adding a washer and dryer as we now stay for long periods in the camper. Been reading that the combo units take many hours to run a load and the individual machines seem better.
Most of the dryers that run on 120 volts are very small. The write-ups also indicate the cycle time is 3 times longer as running on 240 volts.

Does anyone have a stackable Washer / dryer running on 120 volts that operates well with a decent load size?

Or has anyone run a 240 volt circuit from the power panel for the dryer?

Thanks for some ideas.

you can not access 240 volts unless you have a very high-end MH 50 amp unit.

[rcwaz]

We installed Whirlpool stackable units in our 2019 Alpine. I was very careful with the dimensions as it is tight. The front of the cabinet had to come off to install the units but they reinstalled easily. I also had to remove the bedroom door and frame to bring the units in. Both units were 120v. We are very happy with them except for the fact that we had trouble with the heat sensing button controls on the washer. They would not work at all for my wife but slightly better for me. The service men who came out had no problem with the controls. I complained and they would come out and swap parts. After a year they replaced the washer unit under warranty. It’s sitting winterized right now. That combination of washer and dryer worked well for us. We didn’t have room for a large stack of dirty clothes.

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by JimJan

Thanks to all for the information. I am not afraid of rewiring to a sub panel if it will give an appropriate benefit. If just minimal it won't be worth it.
As for the 120V washer and 120V dryer I continue to look for one. I read about the Splendide washer that seems to need control boards replaced. May be a electric supply issue?
Danny, What model did you get?

We have the Ariston Splendide and might be the best W/D we have ever owned. Both 120V, side by side. All in one units simply do not dry period. Good for damp and dry on a line outside if space is that tight. As far as blown boards, sparks etc, I bet my electricians license some fool connected the dryer to 240V.

[sonofcy]

Originally Posted by JimJan

We are looking at adding a washer and dryer as we now stay for long periods in the camper. Been reading that the combo units take many hours to run a load and the individual machines seem better.
Most of the dryers that run on 120 volts are very small. The write-ups also indicate the cycle time is 3 times longer as running on 240 volts.

Does anyone have a stackable Washer / dryer running on 120 volts that operates well with a decent load size?

Or has anyone run a 240 volt circuit from the power panel for the dryer?

Thanks for some ideas.

240 is no problem, but not needed in 2021. Dryers today can do the job on 120v and washers never did need 240v. Load size will be smaller just because the door opening to get the washer and dryer through is a little smaller than a house. For a couple they are big enough and my wife loves them. Might be the best quality and performance we have owned in over 40 years. Splendide Ariston is the one to get. A little more expensive, but BMW's cost more than Chevys for a reason.

http://www.splendide.com/splendide_stackables.htm

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by mgrote

We have a splendide wash/dry combined in one unit. I don't know if I would go that route again for two reasons. 1, brand new and never used got it set up plugged in and the damn thing shot out sparks and smoke like no other thought it was gonna burn thru the floor of the trailer before I got it unplugged. Took all summer to get it fixed and a lot of complaining for it to be covered under warranty, and yes it was the control board and a surge protector that failed. 2. It does a ****ty job of drying, clothes come out so hot they almost burn your hands and the are really wrinkled would be better off hanging to dry outside.

Did considerable research before we had the Slendide stackable/vented washer dryer installed in this trailer. The primary complaint of the combo unit was damp, wrinkled clothes after the dry cycle. One fellow that lived in his, and a sales person at a dealership in FL, said the answer was to either hang them outside to finish drying or do as he did and put the dried clothes over the bed, chairs, couch etc. to finish drying and smooth them out. Not for us.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by cavie

you can not access 240 volts unless you have a very high-end MH 50 amp unit.

You can tap 240 volts on a standard RV panel refer to post #12.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Ho...ker/1002508762

[cavie]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

You can tap 240 volts on a standard RV panel refer to post #12.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Ho...ker/1002508762

If you know how to install sub-panels and breakers and wiring.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by cavie

If you know how to install sub-panels and breakers and wiring.

I guess, for my own edification, why would anyone want to try to modify an RV for 240v service when they weren't meant for it and have all the needed AC requirements if you buy the right RV? Just wondering.....

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I guess, for my own edification, why would anyone want to try to modify an RV for 240v service when they weren't meant for it and have all the needed AC requirements if you buy the right RV? Just wondering.....

Well any RV with 50 amp service has 240 bolts available via the mentioned breaker assembly. I am currently using 240 volt 30 amps to run RV Comfort systems “Cheap Heat” 5,000 watt add on electric heating element for our gas furnace. This is far safer than using space heaters plugged into even quality outlets.
This isn’t rocket science it is simply tapping 240 volts the only place you can on an RV service panel.
I am not modifying the panel at all, just replacing the single double breaker (240 volt 50 amp) with a tandem double (240 volt one pair 50 amp Main, one pair 30 amp for 240 volt device).

[CedarCreekWoody]

I'll be darned if I can see where that breaker would fit on a standard RV panel to provide 240 volts. The only place L1 and L2 are available side by side is the main breaker. Does this replace the main? I'm not needing to do the mod, just trying to understand it.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

I'll be darned if I can see where that breaker would fit on a standard RV panel to provide 240 volts. The only place L1 and L2 are available side by side is the main breaker. Does this replace the main? I'm not needing to do the mod, just trying to understand it.

yes, it does replace the main. The 30 amp legs go to a sub-panel that must be installed by someone with the proper electrical knowledge. It provides 30 amps @ 240 volts. 240 volts can be accessible or not depending on what sub-panel is installed and how it is wired. NOT A DIY'er job! The 50 amp legs feed the RV just as it always did.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Ok, thats cool. I envisioned such a 240 volt subpanel being fed by two seperate 30 amp breakers. This would be better. Thanks

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

You can tap 240 volts on a standard RV panel refer to post #12.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Square-D-Ho...ker/1002508762

Originally Posted by cavie

If you know how to install sub-panels and breakers and wiring.

Well if you are just adding the dryer circuit you can feed the 30 amp 240 volt dryer outlet directly, as it would need to be a dedicated circuit. wired with 10/3 with ground wire.

I would also advise either be familiar with electrical wiring or hire a licensed electrician to install.

https://ndaonline.net/30amp-220v-4-w...nt=Catch%20All

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well any RV with 50 amp service has 240 bolts available via the mentioned breaker assembly. I am currently using 240 volt 30 amps to run RV Comfort systems “Cheap Heat” 5,000 watt add on electric heating element for our gas furnace. This is far safer than using space heaters plugged into even quality outlets.
This isn’t rocket science it is simply tapping 240 volts the only place you can on an RV service panel.
I am not modifying the panel at all, just replacing the single double breaker (240 volt 50 amp) with a tandem double (240 volt one pair 50 amp Main, one pair 30 amp for 240 volt device).

I understand the above and appreciate the input. I was questioning why anyone would do that when the RV wasn't really designed for it and they come with what you need if you buy the properly equipped trailer. I don't use space heaters, instead I use the heat pump and I don't have to try to rig in a 240v sub panel. Didn't use a space heater in the last trailer without a heat pump.

Guess I'm asking what are the circumstances that would warrant going to the extreme of modifying the electrical power in an RV or running space heaters all the time. Extreme cold or ?? I've spent the winter in an RV in 0 degree weather without space heaters. Granted it was a much smaller trailer than now with no slides but the furnace kept me plenty warm. Going to modify my winter travels next year and trying to figure out if I'm missing something...