Power converter smoked

[ilovelamp]

Hey guys, as usual the sprinter is giving me fits.
This evening right as I got home, the ac shut off about, while we were trying to figure out why, about 30 seconds later, all the other AC powered things shut off. Maybe 30 seconds later we smelled smoke. After smashing the bottom out of the storage area above where the smoke was coming from, I could see the converter smoking... Besides the obvious thing of the converter being out, I have two real questions:
1. Is there an underlying problem elsewhere that would cause the converter to fry or was it just time with it being a 14 model?
2. What should I replace it with, brand, size, I'm very familiar with inverters, but I'm not sure how converters are rated or what the ratings actually mean, I do have an inclination that bigger isn't necessarily better with a converter.

I've been at work since 4am and I'm just now getting to lay down in the hotel room so if I left things out or it doesn't make sense, I apologize. I'm adding a pic of the converter.

A side note, we have 2 air cons, a washer and dryer. During the day when it is hot, we can run both air cons, or one and a washer or one and a dryer. If we run anything else it flips the 50 amp and it is so hot you can barely touch it... The park keeps telling us we don't know anything about rvs and we have too much stuff running but we literally shut everything down when we use the washer or dryer besides one air con. I can't imagine one air con and the washer OR dryer is blowing a 50 amp breaker. I could be wrong guess?

[chuckster57]

First thing I would do if you haven’t already, is get an EMS (energy management system). You could be getting voltage spikes/drops that are causing issues and may take out more than just your converter.

I would get the same brand as it looks like a WFCO and rated at least the same amps. After you have replaced the converter and installed a quality EMS, then you can monitor line voltages to see what trips your breakers.

[JRTJH]

In addition to getting an EMS, you also need to survey which leg of your 50 amp power center each of your circuit breakers is installed. You say that you can run both A/C units, but have to turn one off to operate the washer/dryer. It sounds like all three are on one leg of power.

Additionally, "what kind of washer/dryer do you have? Is the dryer 120VAC or is it 240VAC?????

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

First thing I would do if you haven’t already, is get an EMS (energy management system). You could be getting voltage spikes/drops that are causing issues and may take out more than just your converter.

I would get the same brand as it looks like a WFCO and rated at least the same amps. After you have replaced the converter and installed a quality EMS, then you can monitor line voltages to see what trips your breakers.

OK, I'm going to get a converter now, is it beneficial to have a higher amp or no?

Also, thank you for always helping me out haha!

[LewisB]

^^^Absolutely what Chuck says about an EMS. Don't just buy a "surge protector" - they are not the same as an EMS. And if you have a 50A trailer service, buy a 50A EMS (even if you commonly only connect with a 30A cord.)

You are plugged in to a 50A RV service, correct? A 30A RV service would likely cause the problem you described. You can't run 2 AC units, the washer/dryer, and the converter all at the same time on a 30A service. Assuming you have a 50A service that was working properly and all your appliances are working correctly, you should be able to run 2 AC units and the washer/dryer without issues.

If you have a power problem (as well, now, as a burned out converter), that problem may be upshore of your rig in the shore power system; the EMS will protect you from shore power issues and help you trouble shoot the system.

Good luck!

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

In addition to getting an EMS, you also need to survey which leg of your 50 amp power center each of your circuit breakers is installed. You say that you can run both A/C units, but have to turn one off to operate the washer/dryer. It sounds like all three are on one leg of power.

Additionally, "what kind of washer/dryer do you have? Is the dryer 120VAC or is it 240VAC?????

The washer and dryer are both 120. I think their breaker probably needs to be replaced but they swear it doesn't.

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by LewisB

^^^Absolutely what Chuck says about an EMS. Don't just buy a "surge protector" - they are not the same as an EMS. And if you have a 50A trailer service, buy a 50A EMS (even if you commonly only connect with a 30A cord.)

You are plugged in to a 50A RV service, correct? A 30A RV service would likely cause the problem you described. You can't run 2 AC units, the washer/dryer, and the converter all at the same time on a 30A service. Assuming you have a 50A service that was working properly and all your appliances are working correctly, you should be able to run 2 AC units and the washer/dryer without issues.

If you have a power problem (as well, now, as a burned out converter), that problem may be upshore of your rig in the shore power system; the EMS will protect you from shore power issues and help you trouble shoot the system.

Good luck!

OK, I'm definitely going to get the ems for sure. We are supposedly on 50amp, I'll get the fluke out and test it myself when I get back today! If it is hot outside, we CAN run both acs but if you use the coffee pot, it throws, we definitely can't use anything with the acs

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by LewisB

^^^Absolutely what Chuck says about an EMS. Don't just buy a "surge protector" - they are not the same as an EMS. And if you have a 50A trailer service, buy a 50A EMS (even if you commonly only connect with a 30A cord.)

You are plugged in to a 50A RV service, correct? A 30A RV service would likely cause the problem you described. You can't run 2 AC units, the washer/dryer, and the converter all at the same time on a 30A service. Assuming you have a 50A service that was working properly and all your appliances are working correctly, you should be able to run 2 AC units and the washer/dryer without issues.

If you have a power problem (as well, now, as a burned out converter), that problem may be upshore of your rig in the shore power system; the EMS will protect you from shore power issues and help you trouble shoot the system.

Good luck!

It is a 4 prong plug btw

[B-O-B'03]

I replaced my WFCO converter with one made by Progressive Dynamics from best converter, it was just the mother board and a direct replacement for the WFCO board. It was very simple to install and is a 4 stage converter.

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

I replaced my WFCO converter with one made by Progressive Dynamics from best converter, it was just the mother board and a direct replacement for the WFCO board. It was very simple to install and is a 4 stage converter.

The mother board was bad? So you replaced yours and repaired the bad one? I'm lost haha

[wiredgeorge]

The suggestion to check your wiring was a good one because if the converter smoked, the wiring may be compromised.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by ilovelamp

The mother board was bad? So you replaced yours and repaired the bad one? I'm lost haha

I replaced the mother board, rather than the whole converter/power-center.

I bought the PD4655MBA to replace the board in my WF-8955-PEC converter.

The bad one was sent back to WFCO, who actually warranty replaced it and I sold the replacement WFCO board to a member on this forum.

That was in April of 2017 and I have had no issues with the PD unit.

-Brian

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

The suggestion to check your wiring was a good one because if the converter smoked, the wiring may be compromised.

As soon as the power was unplugged, I felt everything in the area, nothing was hot except the converter but I'll look at it more closely now that it's light out and go ahead and test my wiring

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by B-O-B'03

I replaced the mother board, rather than the whole converter/power-center.

I bought the PD4655MBA to replace the board in my WF-8955-PEC converter.

The bad one was sent back to WFCO, who actually warranty replaced it and I sold the replacement WFCO board to a member on this forum.

That was in April of 2017 and I have had no issues with the PD unit.

-Brian

Oh I see! Got lucky!

[ilovelamp]

Hey guys, I don't know enough about this stuff, can anybody tell me why you would want a 65 or 80 or 100amp for that matter on the converter if you can only get 50 amp service?

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by ilovelamp

Hey guys, I don't know enough about this stuff, can anybody tell me why you would want a 65 or 80 or 100amp for that matter on the converter if you can only get 50 amp service?

You're "mixing up DC amperage and AC amperage"....

At 12 VDC, 65 amps is 780 watts of power (12x65=780)
At 120 VAC, 65 amps is 7,800 watts of power (120x65=7800)

So, the "120 VAC input amperage on your shore power cord" has "nothing to do with the "12 VDC amperage rating at your converter" (other than the "wattage of input power must be greater than the converter rating or you'll overload the circuit)

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

You're "mixing up DC amperage and AC amperage"....

At 12 VDC, 65 amps is 780 watts of power (12x65=780)
At 120 VAC, 65 amps is 7,800 watts of power (120x65=7800)

So, the "120 VAC input amperage on your shore power cord" has "nothing to do with the "12 VDC amperage rating at your converter" (other than the "wattage of input power must be greater than the converter rating or you'll overload the circuit)

OK, so am I misunderstanding how the power distribution works? I was under the impression that the 12v and 120v are separate systems completely...

[JRTJH]

They are "separate systems" however the shore power (AC system) provides power to the converter, so there is "some interface"... If you unplug the trailer from shore power, the converter stops working....

I understood your question to be: "Why do I need a 65, 80 or 100 amp converter if I only have 50 amp shore power input to the trailer?" Was that what you were asking?

[ilovelamp]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

They are "separate systems" however the shore power (AC system) provides power to the converter, so there is "some interface"... If you unplug the trailer from shore power, the converter stops working....

I understood your question to be: "Why do I need a 65, 80 or 100 amp converter if I only have 50 amp shore power input to the trailer?" Was that what you were asking?

Yes it was, I apologize, I don't know enough about this stuff... I guess where I'm confused is how all of my 120v stuff went off if the converter went out, does the shore power have to go through the converter before it powers the 120v?

[sourdough]

12vdc and 120vac systems ARE separate.....with some common points....yes, confusing. Your converter is the "mixer" in the middle. It takes your 120vac coming in and converts it to 12vdc to charge/augment/power your 12vdc system. It operates over the 12v separate system but is powered by 120vac. Similar to say your AC which is powered by 120vac but controlled by a 12vdc control board......So, separate systems....but with some common areas.