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08-27-2019, 07:02 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Milwaukie, OR
Posts: 1,389
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We tried 2 different plugs...one from an RV dealer and one from Amazon. Both are supposed to be specifically for this application. My guess is you guys are right, that dropping a leg cuts the amps. How would you wire a plug to keep 30a on 120v?
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Jeff & Sandi (and Teddy - 7lb Schnorkie)
2018 Montana High Country 305RL
2015 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW
Demco Recon Hitch on RAM Puck Ball
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08-27-2019, 08:04 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: "Murvil, TN
Posts: 2,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb5717
We tried 2 different plugs...one from an RV dealer and one from Amazon. Both are supposed to be specifically for this application. My guess is you guys are right, that dropping a leg cuts the amps. How would you wire a plug to keep 30a on 120v?
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I don't think you can.....the two 120V legs are 180 degrees out of phase with each other....and makes the output 240V instead of 120V
__________________
2016 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab Dually Diesel 4x4
2018 Grand Design Momentum 394M
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT+
Excessive payload capacity is a wonderful thing
"If it ain't Fast....It ain't Fun"
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08-27-2019, 08:11 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: "Murvil, TN
Posts: 2,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wxman
Using the correct adapter? Xrated may be on to something in a sense. Since the generator is voltage selectable it should be able to put out the max watts at the 30 amp receptacle in the 120V only mode, correct? Somehow the switch parallels the load after the circuit breakers to give the max watts. But I believe it would still take both legs (hots) to get the max watts but they can be combined when in the 120V only mode. However, if the adapter is incorrect it may only be connecting one leg (hot) to the RV end of the adapter, which as would seem to limit to 15amps.
I am not a pro, but I think it would be interesting to know if both 'hots' of the adapter have continuity to the 'hot' of the RV side of the adapter.
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I'm not sure that you are understanding what I'm trying to say. When the switch is set to 240V, the max current available is 15 amps....which equals 3600 Watts. When the switch is set to 120V, the total is 30 amps, but that is 15 amps for one hot leg and 15 amps for the other hot leg, for a total of 30. But you are only using one hot leg at a time on the generator out put. It's basically the same thing as the power coming into your house....two hot legs (180 degrees out of phase with each other) and a neutral. If you only have one of the phases and a neutral, you are only getting half of the available power.
__________________
2016 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab Dually Diesel 4x4
2018 Grand Design Momentum 394M
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT+
Excessive payload capacity is a wonderful thing
"If it ain't Fast....It ain't Fun"
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08-28-2019, 05:52 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: West Central IN
Posts: 141
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OK. His generator has a 120V only switch. The switch should parallel the output and make the full wattage available for 120V. It appears in this case JMAC did not include a 120V 30A receptacle to get all that power out in 120V. It probably does parallel the load at the 120V receptacle and gives the full 20A (2400W)(limited by circuit breaker) instead of only the 1750W (half of genny output) of a single leg. His switch does not convert the 240 outlet to 120 and no adapter is going to do that. The switchable genny I was somewhat familiar with and an additional 120V 30A outlet. Running in 120V only mode paralleled the output and made the entire 30A available at that outlet while making the 240 outlet unusable. The OP's genny doesn't appear to have that option. Looks like limited to 2400W at the 120V receptacle by circuit breaker in 120V mode instead of 1750W (half of genny output), in 120/240 mode, but no way to get full 30A because doesn't have the additional receptacle.
Yes, I see no way to get 30A at 120V from his 4 prong 240V receptacle.
Has certainly exhausted my understanding. I'm out.
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Wxman
2018 Passport Elite 19RB (sold)
2021 Jayco Eagle HT 274CKDS
2017 Silverado Z71 5.3L 3.42 gears(sold)
2021 Sierra 2500 4x4 CCSB SLT (gas)
E4 16k/1.6k hitch
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08-28-2019, 06:05 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Milwaukie, OR
Posts: 1,389
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I assumed (dangerous, I know) that there was a universality to generators that had this kind of plug since there are adapter plugs made for them that are supposed to work with RV's. I don't know how to test the plug for amperage on each leg but it appears that your assumptions are correct since the gen fails to power the AC on the 30a 4 prong side but does so on the 20a side.
If that's true then the stated specs for the gen are deceptive. It states 30a AC 120/240v. It should say 15a/30a AC 120/240v.
__________________
Jeff & Sandi (and Teddy - 7lb Schnorkie)
2018 Montana High Country 305RL
2015 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW
Demco Recon Hitch on RAM Puck Ball
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08-28-2019, 06:08 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: "Murvil, TN
Posts: 2,198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wxman
OK. His generator has a 120V only switch. The switch should parallel the output and make the full wattage available for 120V. It appears in this case JMAC did not include a 120V 30A receptacle to get all that power out in 120V. It probably does parallel the load at the 120V receptacle and gives the full 20A (2400W)(limited by circuit breaker) instead of only the 1750W (half of genny output) of a single leg. His switch does not convert the 240 outlet to 120 and no adapter is going to do that. The switchable genny I was somewhat familiar with and an additional 120V 30A outlet. Running in 120V only mode paralleled the output and made the entire 30A available at that outlet while making the 240 outlet unusable. The OP's genny doesn't appear to have that option. Looks like limited to 2400W at the 120V receptacle by circuit breaker in 120V mode instead of 1750W (half of genny output), in 120/240 mode, but no way to get full 30A because doesn't have the additional receptacle.
Yes, I see no way to get 30A at 120V from his 4 prong 240V receptacle.
Has certainly exhausted my understanding. I'm out.
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I did do some reading on small generator outputs and how the are built. I think YOU may be spot on with your last post. I've never really dealt with small generators and I've learned a bit myself....both from you and from a bit of reading
Here's the page I was reading.....
https://www.generatorjoe.net/html/generatorops.html
__________________
2016 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab Dually Diesel 4x4
2018 Grand Design Momentum 394M
2023 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT+
Excessive payload capacity is a wonderful thing
"If it ain't Fast....It ain't Fun"
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08-28-2019, 06:46 AM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: BETHLEHEM
Posts: 11
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I believe you are correct. There is no way to connect both hot legs together to get the full amperage/wattage as they are out of phase with one another. Looks like this gen is not really what it's advertised to be.
If your son just wants a gen for the trailer I would probably try to sell this gen to a contractor or someone who needs that type of gen and use the proceeds to get an RV specific gen. I have the Champion 100263 3400 Watt dual fuel inverter generator and am happy with it. I think you would be happy with any of the brands in this range.
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08-28-2019, 07:14 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Milwaukie, OR
Posts: 1,389
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That may be the solution...we've talked about that.
I did just get off the phone with the manufacturer who seems to think that we should be able to use the gen as we intended and finds it odd that we can't. One of their techs said he would do some research and get back to me...we'll see. If they do I'll report what they say.
__________________
Jeff & Sandi (and Teddy - 7lb Schnorkie)
2018 Montana High Country 305RL
2015 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 DRW
Demco Recon Hitch on RAM Puck Ball
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